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Published: April 20th 2009
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How the French do Brunch...or Rather...How We do Brunch
The day was overcast but even with the threat of rain the town was bustling with activity. This past Sunday was a traditional fete! Not only was the market open with fresh cheeses, wines, olives, breads, flowers, and crafts but the villagers were out selling their personal goods. It is best described as a French garage sale yet it was collective and far more charming.
Susana had told me of the celebration and invited me out with her and Robert while Atoussa prepared for a Sunday brunch for the rest of us, Paul and his group. It was to be a leisurely get together and reminded me of lazy Sundays in Richmond when friends would get up after a long night of drinking and go out for large, late breakfasts served with bloodies or mimosas. It had been a long time since I had done anything like that and this had a French spin on it that was not only more alluring but more comfortable.
I walked out of the house onto the narrow street and headed down to the left toward the square. Robert and Susana were already
ahead of me so I took the opportunity to snap some pictures of the local characters and their wares. Children ran around the coulombs of adults and cut through crowds on petite bicycles like a plow in a field. There was no worry of traffic because the street had become pedestrian overnight.
The line up of antiques, second hand clothing, glass ware, homemade juices and jewelry ended at the bakery. I turned around and headed back toward the square, making my way through the labyrinth of humanity that dominated the street. As I neared the entrance to the recreation area on my right and the square on my left I came across Robert and Susana who were looking at old French children’s books. I surprised them and we decided to head back the way I had just come so they could view the cast off treasures of strangers.
Susana stopped at a table halfway down to look at some scarves. The woman manning the table had an infant on her lap and a smile on her face. She was Asian but spoke both French and English. Susana held up a sheer green scarf threaded through with confetti strands
of color. The woman unraveled a purple one from around her neck and handed it to Susana saying they matched and she had put it on to ward of the chill.
“These are a euro each?” asked Susana.
“Yes, a euro for each” replied the woman.
“I don’t know Susana if we can afford these with all the expenses of our trip” joked Robert. The woman, thinking that haggling was ensuing, immediately reduced the price to fifty cents for both. Robert, who had just been kidding turned red and said, “Oh no, I’ll give you a euro.” He handed her the money and they both laughed, Susana wrapped the scarves around her neck and we moved on.
Atoussa had asked us before we left to pick up wine, bread, and cheese for the lunch. We decided it would be best to stop by the open market and grocers after we wandered around a little more. We turned around and headed back toward the square. We made our way up the short incline past chickens hunkered down in their cages like soldiers in bunkers awaiting death. The center of the town was bordered by two churches and
a school. Outside of these stood the proud merchants displaying their fine fresh foods and goods; one stand held fresh olives from a local farmer, beside her were various types of aged goat cheeses and beyond fresh flowers and crepes made to order were to be found. You must indeed “make your rounds” and travel in a semicircle about the area to see all the wares. If you for a moment approach a merchant with curiosity glinting in your eye they will offer you a taste of whatever is it hand. Here I didn’t ask what I was given I just smiled, thanked them and put the sliver into my mouth. A burst of earthy, deep, rich flavor took over my senses from a piece of cheese offered to me. Cured sausages hung like garlands across the covered table, large loaves of fresh bread were piled upon each other like mock pyramids. The market was a symphony for all the senses to enjoy. The sounds of people greeting each other and the exchanging of kisses upon cheeks was everywhere; a child ran around with two sheep bells on her arms delighting at the racket she caused as she circled like
a merry-go-round. Dogs were milling around their owners, secretly eyeing the tables full of easily accessible food.
Robert and Susana purchased four small rounds of goat cheese, two loaves of hardy grain bread, three bottles of wine, fresh olives, and some leafy vegetables for the lunch. Robert held the box of goods, cradling it like a precious cache. It indeed felt like we were in midst of abundance.
We headed back to the house with our goods and with Robert and Susana planning a Spanish dish to accompany what Atoussa had already prepared. We arrived to find Atoussa finished with her work. The two of us left Robert and Susana to the kitchen and went up to the third floor to enjoy a glass of wine with good conversation.
Soon the brothers arrived with the rest of the kids. Everyone hugged and greeted one another and the children went about their business of video games in the living room. The adults retired upstairs and wine was given all around. Discussions were flying across the circle of people and it was lively indeed. Susana decided to feed the children first and soon after dishes of hot food were
being brought upstairs with plates and silverware. We all got up excitedly and went for the makeshift buffet offering each other plates and spooning food on to anyone’s who plate was near. There were fresh greens from the garden, pasta salad and a casserole Susana had made with buck choy, boiled egg, cheese and couscous. Everyone faded into silence as mouths were filled with the tasty food. Murmurs of approval and delight were heard throughout the room as we nodded in appreciation.
Lunch was followed by an apricot, apple cake served with vanilla ice cream. It was a cool sweet ending to a wonderful meal. I brought up coffee and fresh mint tea for anyone who desired it and returned downstairs to do the dishes.
After the flurry of activity Robert, Susana and I decided to see the band Damian had mentioned was playing out in the center of town. We returned to where we had been that morning to hear the musicians perform.
A portly accordion player was Susana’s favorite. There was a cellist, trombone player, fiddler, clarinet and wash board to boot! It was lively even as rain began to pelt us with watery offerings.
The crowd was still pleased and humming along as the band took shelter in a tunnel and continued to play on. I grew cold and weary of my camera getting waterlogged so bide the happy couple farewell and returned to Atoussas house just in time to say goodbye to the brothers and boys.
The rest of the afternoon was spent in calm contentment. No one was hungry for dinner after such a feast so we lazily watched a movie until we grew too tired. Cheyen’s first day back at school was the next day and Robert and Susana had to get up early to catch a train to leave. It was a good way to end their time here. We hugged and promised to keep in touch. I asked to be updated about the baby on the way. It was not tearful but joyful for we had gotten to once again bask in one another’s good company.
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Karen Miller
non-member comment
Sunday
What a wonderful setting. I love those scarves! It looks like fun was had by all.