The City of Light

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We've been in the country for 2 full hours and....we're OFF! Just like that our guide of the city, Michael, sets our course for the day. Michael is an ex-pat and has lived in Paris for 20 years. He has his work cut out for him today. Entertain mom and I so we don't think too much about our lack of sleep!

We walk toward the Seine as we all trying to learn about the group we're going to spend the next few days with. Why a tour? Well, originally Mom was going by herself. I joined the trip after she was committed. She had been with the trip leaders to Peru, the Amazon and Machu Pichu and had a great time.

Honestly, it was nice to let someone else do the planning in Paris. I never get the opportuinty to let someone else make all the decisions. Ever. This week I am free to wander, enjoy and follow. I am looking forward to it. No bus schedules. No choosing restaurants. No "where are we heading next?"

We head to Saint Chapelle first. We couldn't have been more pleased. My first impression was, "Gosh, it's not very big" but the gargoyles are impressive! They lear down at you with snears and scowls. I learn that the church was one of the Louis' private chapel. Boy, did Louis know how to keep the good things for himself!

You enter the church on the lower level and climb a circular staircase to the next floor. I wish I could describe the feeling of wonder and awe as I gazed upon the stunning beauty of this church. No words seem adequate. I got choked up, tears in my eyes. I could have stood there and cried at the beauty. I know how that sounds. Cheesy. Slightly abnormal. The sheer number of stained glass windows is breathtaking. The entire sanctuary was bathed in a soft glow. It was magical.

I turned and waited for Mom to come up the stairs. I watched her face. Wonder, tears, couldn't speak for fear of breaking down. Yep. That's the feeling. I knew exactly how she felt.

Next, we on to L'Conciergerie. Converted to a prison during the French Revolution, it housed Marie Antionette before she was executed. Austere and devoid of any accoutrements (how's THAT for using my French?!), the thrill for me was the kitchens. The big fireplaces could fit our entire group plus 10 more comfortably. I could only imagine the meals prepared for the soldiers.

Now, before I go further, I've been meaning to address concerns some people voiced to me about terrorism and our safety. At each site, we have had bag checks and walked through metal detectors. There are National Guard and police officers stationed at various points throughout the city. They are all carrying automatic weapons. It's an incredibly safe feeling to know that at any moment, there are soldiers close by at the ready. At one point, there was a gathering of protesters (or some group they thought might get overly emotional) and there was a long line of riot police vans staged on a side street. Yes, we walked right by all those vans. Yes, they were FILLED with French police. Oh ho ho ho, YES, I wished to be frisked at any given moment! Ooo, la la! *whistles and cat calls*

Our next stop was for lunch and we headed to a typical French café, Café Panis. Promptly seated at a long group of tables, Mom and I each ordered Croque Monseuir. Literally, 5 minutes later, we were being served hot delicious ham and cheese sandwiches with salad and fries. Everyone else seemed to enjoy their meals as well. Quiche, omelets, white fish and huge salads made this a fantastic quick stop. Now, let's get one thing straight. The French do NOT rush meals. They linger, they chat, they enjoy being out. They drink with every meal. Life slows down here. Joie de vivre!! Mom and I are learning things from the French. (My bakery story comes in another blog later)

After lunch, we head to Notre Dame! *Watch your belongings* The Parisian pickpockets love a good crowd and Notre Dame doesn't disappoint. Our guide, Michael, is surprised that there isn't a line and after the expected security check, in we go!

Now, I will not gush over Notre Dame like Saint Chapelle. It's gorgeous and stunning. I get emotional but mostly because I'm thinking about all the people that have come before me. The history is always what gets me. It is crowded but surprisingly quiet. We make our way around the outside of the pews as Michael shares facts and stories. The Rose windows are enormous and beautiful.

My "Notre Dame moment" comes a few minutes later when I happen to come across an alcove and spy the Mexican flag. As I look around, I realize this alcove is dedicated to Guadalupe. It was so unexpected and exciting. The very thought that she has a special place in Paris was emotional. Thousands of miles from where she is revered, I lit a candle and prayed. I don't do that in public. For me, my faith is private, but the people in my life that pray for me deserve return prayers. They have kept me safe for many, many years and I am grateful. You know who you are!

We head for L'Orangerie and the gorgeous works of Monet! We take a bus and I realize how close together all the places I've read and heard are located! I get my first glimpses of the d'Orsay, the Palais Royal and the obelisk on the Place de la Concorde!! I can't wait to see the Tour de France next year so I can say, "I've seen that! I know exactly where that is!"

I remember the first time I saw a Monet. Mom took me to an exhibition at the Toledo Art museum. It was special to be able to share this with her again! The two oval rooms which display his water lillies are incredible. Again, moved to tears, the magnitude of what we see is not lost on us. The canvas spread out on each wall is a continuous flow much like the subject matter. I turn in a circle to absorb the works in total. Michael tells us that Monet was nearly blind when he painted them making it even more impressive. I could stay here curled up with a good book for days if only the crowds would go away. I remember reading a book when I was young, "From the mixed-up files of Mrs. Basil E. Frankweiler". It was about kids that stay in a museum. I used to think how fantastic that would be. L'Orangerie would be just the place to do it!

I realized after Saint Chapelle, Notre Dame, L'Orangerie and even the austere L'Conciergerie that, to me, the City of Lights is all about the sunlight. It plays through the stained glass and highlights the artwork. It can brighten the darkest of places and yet, the absence of it can make days stretch out to seem like years. I have fallen in love, no, WE have fallen in love with this magical city. I can't wait to see more!

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