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Published: September 12th 2012
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Is it possible (or even desirable) to spend a whole day in a cemetery? Indeed it is...especially when that cemetery is
Cimitière Père Lachaise! This is the largest cemetery in the city of Paris – 44 hectares – and (according to Wikipedia) is supposed to be the world’s most visited.
Père Lachaise sits on a tree-covered hill and is criss-crossed by a combination of wide, cobbled avenues and smaller, more intimate footpaths, making it a very pleasant place to wander around (especially on a hot day). After a couple of hours ‘grave-spotting’, we secreted ourselves in a quiet spot and had a picnic lunch among the graves.
There are so many famous people buried here and despite spending the whole day, we didn't get to see all of the graves we had hoped to. Let's just name a few of the ones we did see, shall we? Edith Piaf, Modigliani, Jim Morrison, Marcel Marceau, Héloïse and Abélard, Chopin, Balzac, Colette, Maria Callas, Molière, La Fontaine, Proust...the list goes on. It was really interesting to see how some of the graves are quite grandiose and others very plain. It was also fascinating to see the tributes people leave on the
graves. For example, people have placed small stones all around the edge of Gertrude Stein's very plain grave. On many others, visitors have left little notes of tribute. Oscar Wilde's is so popular, it has had to be screened with perspex and (recently) fenced off! For some reason, people have felt compelled to plant a kiss on his grave and write messages.
We went to look at the memorial to the
Fédérés of the Paris Commune
, where 147 men and women were lined up against the cemetery wall and shot. In the same area there are numerous other memorials devoted to the victims of war and other disasters (e.g. airline crashes). It’s a very sombre part of the cemetery.
On the way out, we stopped in at the humungous columbarium. After the disturbing memorials it seemed quite cheery to visit Stéphane Grappelli, who lived a long life and brought us so much pleasure.
It was actually quite a long day for such a short blog!
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Melanie
non-member comment
Modigliani's grave
I love how the tribute's on Modigliani's grave even look arty - pared down, not too gaudy, etc. Here's a theory on the Metro tickets that I found somewhere that might be a link to the extreme poverty that Modigliani experienced in life: "..... Satre had, at one time, supported the Maoists movement in Paris when they protested a big hike in the price of Metro tickets. There was a popular protest, acted out by buying metro tickets and giving them to the less fortunate who could not afford to buy them themselves."