Troyes: une ville ancienne

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After breakfast with Erwan and Cheryl, we set off on foot to explore ancient Troyes in bright sunlight. There are knots of tourists in the square by the cathedral, but the town is quiet.

The café owner can't offer us croissants with our coffee, but proposes that we buy our own from the boulangerie opposite. In a corner shop filled with model cars, David buys a replica of a Lotus Elan Sprint in British Racing Green. The proprietor tells us that he is repairing his Solex, his motor bicycle, which is in a state of "decollage". He enthusiastically points out his many original Corgi toys.

On Erwan's recommendation, we visit the covered market. Here, we find M. Morel's stall, and buy camembert and chevre. We stop at a café in the centre ville. Our request for citron pressé is met with a puzzled "Non". It's no surprise: we've rarely found it outside Paris. The waitress offers us lemon syrup diluted with still water.

The cool interior of the Gothic cathedral offers respite from the hot sun. Here is abundant stained glass, with a rose window that glows pink in the afternoon light.

Erwan has arranged for us to visit a wine merchant. Christian leads us down a flight of steps constructed from the stones of a local cemetary, with inscriptions from the Fifteenth Century. Some of the tunnels lead into prayer chambers. In the arches of the cellars, he tells us that the premises remained a wine merchant's throughout the Occupation. Upstairs, we pass through a store room, with the aroma of old wood, into a space that resembles a Nineteenth Century chemistry lab. Here, they produce prunelle, a Troyes speciality distilled from the stones of sloes. We sample the sweet, rich liquid.

On the pavement across the road from a tabac, there are tables with umbrellas. Here, we succeed at last in buying real citron pressé.

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