Burgundy Wine Country

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This morning I went to the nearby boulangerie to buy a croissant and pain-et-chocolat for my breakfast. I couldn't see paying €20 for breakfast at the hotel. That is over $22. I enjoyed my fresh pastry and then drove south to the Soane River. I had it in mind that I might go there if I had time on this trip, but I hadn't counted on it. In fact, my plans only took me as far as Troyes, so everything I do from here on is "bonus"! I wanted to see the Soane because I was here once before, in 1990, on a barge trip with Maggie and our friends the Colwells and Butzers. It was a memorable time as we cruised upriver through the French countryside. One of the places we stopped was Auxonne whose claim to fame is that Napoleon Bonaparte was stationed here as a young lieutenant before he became famous. Unfortunately the Bonaparte Museum that we visited 25 years ago is closed for renovation, but I did get to wander around the town and look at the riverside area where the boats dock (see picture). I wish I could say it looked familiar, but nothing stirred any memories. Next I drove along the river to St.-Jean-de-Losne which is the little town near Dijon where we picked up the boat in 1990. The company we used was called The Blue Line and I didn't see a sign for them, but their successor, Le Boat, looks like it is prospering and their boats are definitely newer than the one we rented (see picture). From St.-Jean I drove to Beaune, a place we didn't visit 25 years ago. It is the center of the Burgundy wine trade and there are many famous vineyards and villages around here. I visited the town's most famous site, the Hospice de Beaune, also known as the Hotel Dieu. I have seen pictures of it and heard about it for years, so it was a treat to get to see it finally in person. It exceeded my expectations. The building was purpose-built as a hospital for the poor people of the area around 1450. It served that function for over five hundred years, but is now a museum. Outside, it has a colorful tile roof that is distinctive (see picture). Inside, the main ward has beds lining the walls (the way they were originally set up) and the interesting carvings on the ceiling beams (see picture). I was inspired to buy a bottle of Burgundy for my dinner, so I found a shop that sells half bottles and splurged on a Volnay. I have had Volnay in the past and each time has been memorable. I trust that this time will be, too. I drank it as I ate my sandwich and talked with Maggie on Skype, with a Napoleon pastry for dessert. Altogether a very good day!

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