Tournus

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We set out after breakfast and the first bit of the journey was pretty, though many tunnels took us through the pretty mountains. Going round Lyon was not pretty at all. It was very full of traffic and graffiti. I don't care how often people try to tell me graffiti is art - too much of it is just plain ugly and blocked off my view of the river. We didn't do a lot of distance but this was due to traffic and the need to go around a mountain or two. Just past Macon Ashley started to worry that we had not made sufficient distance though we did Bourg en Bresse in two stops in the pouring rain on the way out and we have another two nights after tonight to make it to the channel. So we looked at the tourist display in the motorway cafe and decided to come to Tournus. Which has proven to be an excellent choice.

For a start it's amazingly pretty. It's a very old town and large bits of oldness remain. Old streets full of somewhat twee antique shops. The Soane is also very pretty. The place is clearly very prosperous. Our first choice hotel had closed their reception till 5 and we were in town at 3:30 and in need of a room in which to store our stuff whilst we explored. So we dumped that option (it had wifi but looked very bland) and went up to hotel strip near the station. First place we looked at would have been 135 a night - and it didn't look worth it. Then we spotted this place towards the town centre. It doesn't seem to have a name but is labelled hotel/bar/restaurant r. Gras. The beds are soft (which we don't like) but the room is otherwise fit for purpose - also, being 2 star, it is economical.

We wandered round the pretty town and took photos. We had beer by the river. Then back to the hotel for dinner. Restaurant was packed when we got in (around 08:00) so we had to sit inside. Which was fine. We are experiencing 'not hotness' for the first time since Greece. It must be around 24 centigrade. The meal was excellent. We just hit on one of those places that does excellent French provincial food as a matter of course. We had the 14.5 Euro tourist menu and splashed out on a carafe of Macon Blanc for a further 8 Euros (as we're in the area). I had the Quiche Lorraine to start and it was good. I got a whole small tart which was a bit bigger than I could easily handle, but it was good. Ashley was served pate straight from the dish in which it was made in help yourself fashion with plenty of excellent bread and the best cornichons I have ever tasted. Ashley describes the pate de grandmere as 'fucking excellent' - I tasted some and it was, indeed, gorgeous. We both had the bavette which came with an unbelievably creamy potato gratin. That was also gorgeous and then we chose the cheese board. Which, like the pate, was brought to our table and left till it was wanted by the next people... It was sensational. All the cheeses were local and in perfect condition. There must have been at least a dozen different ones. We were particularly impressed by the Bleu de Bresse but didn't ask the names of all those we failed to recognise. The coffee was also particularly good.

Not madly happy about the football. We couldn't watch it but followed it by mobile.

Tomorrow we have to do distance.

Well actually not that much distance, but the road is going to be mostly motorway. I want to get 100km north of Troyes. Currently we are about 650km from Calais and it is Wednesday night. I do not plan to get to Calais until Saturday lunchtime, so this is not a problem especially since the weather looks to be fine and dry for the duration, 300km a day is no issue when I can cruise along at 120km/h.

The meal tonight (as Hilary said) was excellent, one of the best on the trip and there have been some seriously good ones. 2 more evening meals in France, the last, on Friday, will probably be in St Omer. Until then, it remains holiday (vacation), this stops when we get back to the UK.

We took the keys with us (only noticed on the autoroute) and posted them back from Chalon en Champagne which is where we are now.

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Photos

Saone
At Tournus

Evening beer
In Tournus

Comments

[blue_cat]

Lovely buildings! Looks to be something of a find, particularly since the food seems to be as good as the scenery!