Bleu Sky

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Hello all!
I woke up this morning to a sky painted pure blue. Excuse me, that's bleu. And thank god for that. After five days of waiting, the surf community was growing restless. Waiting is, I am told, a normal feature of surfing, but for this region, at this time of the year, the poor weather was very very uncharacteristic. But enough about the fucking weather already. I'm sounding like a Jewish grandmother.
I've been in the water four times now. Getting a little bit of a groove. Groove in this case, for me, does not mean proficiency. It means comfort in the water, comfort on the board, and an improved understanding of the way the waves move. I have been getting up, standing and riding some waves. This is due to my primary training with p rapps in Venice, Santa Monica and Ventura, in addition to, I think, my experience water skiing as a young lad in Tampa.
When I close my eyes I'm seeing waves. It's like learning a new language I suppose. Eventually you dream in that language. If I were to stay all summer here, by the end, I'm sure I'd be dreaming in waves. There are alpha waves, beta waves, gamma waves, and sea waves. The stuff salty tubular dreams are made of.
But I won't stay all summer.
Last night I went out to the night life scene here. Some of the brits had a mate in for a birthday. Had many drinks. Felt good. Danced around. Saw how this place is going to erupt with people and "scene" in the high season (July and August).
I'm still thinking about the camino.
Feel like I'm settling in here. I could stay longer. But each day I stay here is less of a chance to do the whole camino. So shit, I'm feeling the rub of time on my back.
Drew Under Blue Skies

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