Day 0-1: The Things that We're Most Scared of

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The Things that We´re Most Scared of, Are the Things that Could Set us Free

Leaving Roncesvalles

March 31

I woke up around 0500 to the noise of others getting ready for their day. Almost all of the people in the albergue are starting their walk from Roncesvalles. I attempted to go back to sleep because I figured I was not walking today and could sneak in another hour or so of rest. I was wrong! I was shaken awake around 0645 by a man that works at the albergue. I threw myself out of my bunk and packed up my belongings and headed out into the dark streets.

I walked just a small distance to the nearest cafe where I asked the man working there to call a cab for me. While I waited I had some breakfast and watched the other pilgrims passing by the window all geared up ready for the long walk ahead of them. I met a man and woman who were about 60yrs old from North Carolina. They had both left their spouses at home to walk the camino with one another as good friends. It was encouraging to see. If they can do it, I sure can!

I also met a German man who needed a cab to St Jean as well. He had walked thus far and his knee had given out so he decided to go back to St Jean and maybe at another point in his life come back to walk the Camino. I felt so sorry for him. Naturally, we decided to share a cab and lucky for us, by the time the cab appeared there were three others to join us. The fare ended up costing only €10 each.

The cab ride was the most horrifying taxi ride of my life so far! The roads were windy and in most palces along the road the drop off was extremely steep! I was so car sick and hoping that I would not vomit all over the place. I was happy once we had arrived and jumped out of the taxi the second the door opened.



The charm of St Jean is noticeable instantly

I walked to the Pilgrim Office and got my pilgrim passport stamped. It was easy to find the albergue I had booked as it was literally right across the street from the office. I stopped in to leave my bag there and as it was so early, about 0900, I decided to explore the town.

I walked along the town as the sun continued to rise and stumbled across a set of stairs. I had no idea where they led but thought it would be fun to find out, and so I took them. I soon realized that they run along a huge wall over looking the city. It was stunning.

As I walked along the streets and people greeted me saying, "bonjour," I couldn't help but to think of the Disney movie Beauty and the Beast. St Jean has that same sort of charm that is portrayed in the movie.

St Jean Pied de Port is the ancient capital of the Basque region of Basse-Navarre. The name literally means "Saint John at the foot of the mountain pass." This beautiful town is nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains at the "foot of the pass" to Roncesvalles lying on the river Nive.

The feel of the town is somewhat like a fairytale setting in which one can see the people of the town walking down the streets with their baguettes tucked tightly underneath their arms. The narrow streets are encircled by sandstone walls giving off a medieval feel. When looking out over the town the houses are eerily similar all being white with red roofs.

Coming back around noon to check into the albergue, I met a woman named Molly who is also from PA! She lives just north of Philadelphia. We spent the rest of the evening walking around St Jean together. We enjoyed a nice lunch in which we split a pizzz made with sheep cheese! We laughed because we thought maybe they meant to say goat cheese but really it was sheep!

Molly and I walked around St Jean the rest of the day exploring the small quiet village. It truly is a charming place. I hope that some day I am able to come back here with Lee. Molly and I headed back to the albergue so that we could eat the shared dinner with all of the other pilgrims. It was amazing. There were 18 of us altogether. Everyone went around the table and introduced themselves and told a little bit about why they are walking the Camino. There are so many interesting people walking...

One man that I really like is named Hieu. He is 63yrs old!! He said that if I ever forget his name just to call out to him, "Hey, You!" What a funny man.

I am both nervous and excited for tomorrow. Molly and I have decided that we will walk together tomorrow. We don't have far to go but it will be a difficult walk.





The first day is the roughest

April 1

Journal Entry--------------------

Sunday April 1st, 2012

I woke up around 0630 this morning along with everyone else in my room. Molly, Hieu and I are all walking just 8km to Orisson today. We all made this decision on our own and had booked a night at the albergue there prior to arriving in St Jean.

Molly and I set off shortly after breakfast. Today and tomorrow are the hardest days, or so we've heard. Although we may have it easy as most people walk straight through to Roncesvalles in one day.

Walking today was extremely difficult. Almost all of it was uphill... a really freaking big hill, or rather multiple really freaking big hills. I stopped often to look at the views, both to catch my breath and to gaze in awe. No words can describe how beautiful it is, nor could any picture do the views justice. I had to keep telling myself, "This is real!!"

I felt bad for Molly because I was so slow. So many other pilgrims passed us... even a couple who must've been about 70 years old. But I have to remind myself that it doesn't matter how fast I am, or slow for that matter.

I did it; I made it this far and I am proud of myself. We left St Jean at 0830 and arrived at the albergue in Orrison at 1100. Molly and I sat and ate our packed lunches and soon after we saw Hieu coming along and yelled, "Hey YOU!"

Afterwards, we checked in and settled into our rooms. There are six people per room, ot too bad. I sat in the sun taking in the view and then took a nap. The community pilgrim dinner was amazing. I love sitting and talking with everyone. In our room there is Molly and I, Tina from Australia, Anihoa from the Basque region of Spain, and Ana and Florence from Switzerland. I love hearing all of the different languages and accents.

--------------------end journal entry




I remember laying in bed that night with one million thoughts running wild through my mind. I had never been so excited for anything in my life before (other than my wedding day of course). I remember thinking about all of the people that had passed me that day and couldn't help but to think that I may possibly be the slowest person walking the Camino. I knew that I had plenty of time to complete the Camino, but started to feel discouraged when person after person went racing by. I remember thinking that the people who were walking straight on to Roncesvalles in one day were crazy. I was beat by the time I completed the 8km uphill hike that day and knew that I had made the right decision to cut the first day into two by stopping over in Orisson for the night.

I kept thinking a lot about Lee and how I wish he was there sharing these feelings with me. I told myself that I would be back someday with Lee by my side. It was a feeling of comfort knowing that I would be coming back and doing this journey all over again one day. I remember thinking this was a crazy thought to be thinking after only the first day of walking. How could I be so sure that I would actually complete the Camino this time?!

I was very happy to have had Molly to walk with for the first day. While I knew that I had held her up, we really did have quite a connection from the moment we met, and it's not like we had anything else to do that day that we couldn't just take our time. I instantly felt comfortable with her and felt like I had already known her before. She kept telling me that, "This isn't a race and so what if we walk slowly, what does it really matter? We will eventually get to where we are going whatever pace we walk at..."

At this point on my Camino, only the first day, I still doubted the "Camino Magic" that I had read so much about from other pilgrims before I started my journey. I would soon see for myself... but that comes a little bit later...






Accomodation

St Jean Pied de Port-- L´Esprit du Chemin

http://www.espritduchemin.org/EC/LEsprit_du_Chemin.html





Orisson-- Refuge Orisson

http://www.refuge-orisson.com/

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Photos

St Jean
New friends

St Jean
Guest book

Comments

[Doris King]

Oh, Jen. You write so well. I am so proud of you. What a journey. I would love to do that some day. I love you. Noni