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Published: September 29th 2018
Morning in the Pyrranees comes late. Even by 8am it was still dark. The mountains shrouded in mist. It is Day 5 on the road and we are heading for Spain.The site we stayed at was lovely - a new addition this year to ACSI. Priced at the lower end at 13 euros it was cheap compared to many we have visited over the last 6 years of motorhoming. It is just about open but in its last few days before it closes for the winter. The cafe and takeaway only open in the high season of June/July and August and the small shop in reception is running out of things to buy apart from fresh bread and croissants. The staples of motorhomers. They say man cannot live by bread alone. Whilst we have croissants for breakfast , a chunk of cheese and a baguette we are in heaven.
We always struggle this end of the season and this year is slightly worse given that we are holidaying a week later than normal. The grass pitches are all sheltered by small hedges and there are a few of us here. Not many Brits yet along the way. The facilities are
better than last nights offering. More modern and welcoming. If there is a down side it is the fact that the town which looked lovely is too far to walk to. According to ACSI blurb the campsite is close to Oloron. There is a bus which we see coming to the campsite on a regular basis. It never picks anyone up. Glenns cold is reaching epic proportions. Had he felt better he would have gone to the town and we might have had our first/last meal in France.
Instead we sit in and try the internet failing miserably with their connections. OUr roaming seems not to work either and we feel a long way from home not really knowing much about what is going on in the world around us. Not that we want to know. Moaning from all around that the pound is now less than the euro. The currency has always fluctuated but many of the Remoaners blame it on Brexit.
The roads from now on go up and down, round hairpin bends requiring the driver to flex his muscles controlling the steering wheel and the bulk of Gabby. She is small in comparison to Suzy
but it is still hardwork trying to maintain a steady speed along the road. No potholes on these roads even if they are in the middle of nowhere. We see names painted on the road surface - Pantano and jerseys reminding us that the Le Tour passes this way each year. What a sight the peloton must make as it weaves it up and through the mountains. How rich that our own Geraint Thomas won this year. I am sure the french will once again cry drugs.
We are heading for Pau. Heading for a free parking spot just right for a day in the city. A parking spot which we find easily for a change in a large and sprawling city. We park up close to the gare with its impressive Banksy style graffit on its walls. Close to the other overnight parkers and day trippers. Plenty of room for all. To our left after a short walk is the funicular which will take us up to the old city.
It is Monday. The funicular turns up, a water driven gravity affair. The weight of one carriage going up counterbalanced by the one coming down. It is
1930's in style and works a treat taking us up to the upper town in less than a minute. We expected this university city to be bustling with happy young things. No sign. Were they still in bed after a late night of partying? Were they at lectures? Whatever the answer the place was dead with all but a few shops closed . Pau closes down Monday mornings and some shops make an effort to open in the afternoon.
There were few interesting buildings which shocked us. We had expected an ancient centre. There always is in Italy or France . You can bet your life on it . Here there was nothing. The streets were modern and the only thing that looked and felt ancient was the chateau. It was white and gleaming, everything you come to expect from this part of the world bordering on Spain. It was interesting to look at and each of us took differing views as different things interested us. We had read already entrance fee was 7 euros each and that the tour was guided. Trip adviser had reviews . A bit boring outside but interesting inside if you can stomach a one hour guided tour which dragged on for two hours and was completely in French. We came to the conclusion it would have been wasted on us and the 14 euros better spent hunting out a plat de jour.
Now that was easier said than done. The restaurants were starting to open up. The chefs were sitting outside smoking their galloise. We made the decision as it was too hot to hang about that bread and cheese in the van would be a banquet compared to all that hanging about waiting for Pau to come to life.
Ahead of us the Pyrranees with all their beauty.
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Dancing Dave
David Hooper
Heading into the Pyrenees
What a life you lead. Suzy must be the ultimate home away from home.