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Well as many of you will know I have been left in France whilst Ben goes back to the UK to sort a few things out. So now I have a decent amount of time on my hands I will start to tell all about France.
First - yes it is everything I hoped it would be - it is as exasperating, bureaucratic, beautiful, fascinating and incomprehensible (and I don’t mean the language!) as expected. And we have definitely made the right move - especially if the recent UK weather forecasts are correct!!
Anyway I have been pestered for more details so here we go - and don’t complain if you are still reading in 20 mins time!
The campsite and the town
We are on a beautifully kept campsite outside the town of Navarrenx, called Beau Rivage - it is indeed beau and run by two of the kindest and most hospitable people we have had the joy to meet. The site itself is just outside the ramparts of the old town of Navarrenx which means that if you do need anything more than what is provided by the campsite (yes I was devastated to discover that
apparently I was not allowed to live off Magnum bars and wine for the full 10 weeks) all the towns amenities are literally a stones throw away. Including one of the best restaurants in the area which does the most phenomenal 10€ menu at lunch (3 courses!!!) and the Bar des Sports which is run by the nicest French couple whose son plays rugby for Biarritz (Munster fans please feel free to point and laugh - we did!). This bar has rapidly become our local haunt and we are now always greeted with a smile and a handshake - and their 10€ lunch menu us vin compris - truly life does not get sweeter than this!
One of the bizarre things about this area that we were not aware of before we came out was the “Chemin de St Jacques”. This is apparently a well known pilgrimage route that ends in Santiago, Spain, at the huge church of St Jacques de Compestella. Pilgrims come from all over the world some walking from as far as Russia and the UK through this region - all apparently started by a bloke called St Jacques whose only attribute appears to be that he spent a lot of time in France getting very lost!! - I jest.
Apparently the pilgrimage route follows the road that the decapitated body of St James (another of Herods victims) took - some of St James follows apparently followed a star to the site of the church now in Santiago, Spain - Hence Compe Stella - field of stars. Anyway these composters, as we have lovingly nicknamed them, come flocking in the hoards through the area and add an additional level of complexity when driving around the roads of the area.
We have also noticed that these “pelerins” get some very good meal deals- which is why during July and August the French (in apparently very large numbers) grab their pelerin books (which is like a small notebook that says you are a proper pelerins - the French need and piece of paper for EVERYTHING!!), squeeze as many of their family members and possessions as physically possible into their cars and drive the route through France getting cut price food and accommodation along the way. Which sounds great to me - we are currently finding out how we sign up as pilgrims.
Anyway on the reason we are out here - Houses
House Hunting has been exhausting, humorous and exasperating - the state of houses out there is truly staggering - to demonstrate I will tell you of the three houses that I saw today.
House 1: Advertised as a fully renovated house “with taste” with very large restored dependence and garden.
Fact: 4 bed house decorated by blind eighties fashion designer with a penchant for carpet tiles - however the electrics were good. The dependence was in fact a dilapidated barn with a new roof and half of one wall missing which was apparently like that to allow potential buyers then ability to see the height of the new roof - and they wonder why it has been on the market for 7 months!! Overall though good house with potential possibly worth a revisit
House 2: 4 bed house in need of a refresh and a large barn
Fact: Owners kept dogs and kept them locked in the enclosed courtyard which meant that the stench of dog poo made me want to gag before I had made it out of the car!! The kitchen wasn’t big enough to stand in - and that is if you are still standing after the shock of the stench. The less said about the rest of the house the better.
House 3: 4 bed house with 2 barns and large garage - lots of land.
Fact: House has a lot of land as that is all you can see as far as the eye can see and actually not a lot of it is the house’s. On entering the house one cannot but help but notice that many of the beams of the house seem to be missing at least 50% of the oak that they initially started with - but hey that’s all ok the termites have been killed now - excellent no need to replace the beams then (not!). Barns also interesting - one ok the other however is in fact a lean too…..
With the given evidence it is easy to see the French don’t really move - all too much like hard work - especially when you have just had a 3 course meal with wine thrown in for £6.50.
And on that not I am off to the Bar des Sport for a Rose or two.
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Dad/Michael
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Envy (in spades)
I've only just found travel blog! Talk about techno illiterate! Great to hear all your news and to hear that you're still enthusiastic. I like the sound of the area very much. You're well out of the UK weather-wise - May has been dreadful, so please no more comments about the blazing sun. Julia and I have both got part time jobs at a narrow boat hire marina in the next village. She runs the shop and reception whilst I help turn the boats around. Keep the news coming - much love and encouragement.