half timber-timber everywhere -Delemont to Colmar- 20-21 Sept.

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(this is also written in Strasbourg on 22/9)
petit Corentin was apparently concerned he might not see me before he left for school so I made sure I got up at 7.45am to say goodbye. The girls had already gone so did not see them again. He was a little disappointed that I did not really speak French much - this is because it was simpler to speak English with Gisele (who is now teaching German so had apologised in advance for her English - but no problem there) and Francois - who was concerned that this might upset his German when he went back to work. He works a more family friendly 4 day week, with Monday off. The Swiss normal week is 42 hours surprisingly. Gisele works all 5 days but with different hours.

So Francois dropped me down to the station for the 10.45 train to Basel - this takes about 40 mins and is virtually an all towns stop to Basel. As there are regular trains about every half hour or so to Colmar, I decided I might as well wheel my bag around for a little tour of Basel (when Barbara and I came in 1995 we stopped off in Berne to greet the bears in their pit - they are apparently likely much happier now in a new enclosure as they did not look very happy then!).

The mini-tour started with me buying another watch at a place opposite the station! (the lady spoke good English and as she had a lot of family in Melbourne she said I had an Aussie accent, which I always find somewhat disappointing). The watch is very much in the style of the offical Swiss rail watch made by Mondaine - but they must pay a hefty licensing fee to the Swiss Rail for the exact use of the (TM?) red dot on the end of the second hand as theirs are almost 3 times the price of the one I bought - titanium and not made in Switz (as no doubt Mondaine is) but it has otherwise the style of the "real" thing.

I wandered around as it was lunch time looking at the trams going everywhere and decided I might as well have a simple and cheap Swiss lunch for an all-in menu price which was 20CHF or so. This was a bouillon with sherry - a simple clear soup which was nice. Although schnitzel was inevitably on offer instead had some fettucine style flat noodles with a cream and mushroom sauce. A draught beer with it and a coffee which I can certainly drink at lunch time at least without staying up all night.

Then on the train for only 30 mins or so to Colmar (back in France) - it goes from the SNCF (french) side of the Basel station. Found a 2 star hotel there for only 40E which also had wifi. It was part of the Kyriad chain - must be a Greek owner? - and the rack rate on the net was 74E, but I was not complaining. The main show piece in Colmar is the Isenheim altarpiece in the Musee Unterlinden. So I got down there for the last 40min (just as well as it -and the Musee Batholdi - sculptor who designed the Statue of Liberty in NYC) are closed on Tuesdays. Had one of those blasted audioguides forcibly included in the price - they always annoy me as they slow things up so much - the only good ones I enjoyed were in India where they are also a compulsory inclusion in the ticket price for foreigners. I had no real time to listen to the thing as had to do a mad dash around to see what I could. The altarpiece was painted c. 1500 on wood in 3 panels which can be opened and closed etc. I was somewhat underwhelmed by it - it is religious art after all, and I think its age must be the main attraction.

The old town centre of Colmar is unbelievably picturesque in the fact that almost all of the buildings are of the old half-timbered style as you will see from pix so I will not waste more breath on it.

As to the all important dinner, the tourist place had an interactive screen to show restaurants by style - naturally I chose gastronomique over bierstubb (beerhall). I managed to locate various restos on the map but the resto. I ended up at, Arpege, was not on the list (he later told me he did not want to be either). By the looks of the window he had been mentioned in earlier Michelin guides etc on and off. Anyway it was very small with only about 7 tables and 2 couples already there, one young, one in their 60's. I chose the menu Arpege for 32E. A little appetite teaser of a little cup of a cold tomato soup which was refeshing. Then a mushroom dish to start - this seemed to indicated stuffed (farci)mushrooms but it was not like that - they were more included in and surrounding a sort of (baked?) egg/cream sort of mound. Then fish - merlu meuniere which was good. They seem to have a real thing with fish even though they are miles away from the sea. The almost cliched creme brulee (again) - this had grated ginger in it, with some very finely diced banana on top. And a half bottle of pinot gris of Alsace which I might have already commented on. This was a very well executed meal but perhaps did not climb the heights to perfection. It was however good value for the price.

I will finish this item by also completing Colmar. The next day, 21 Sept, I had breakfast at the hotel - for 8E almost always disappointing - apart from sitting at a table you get no more than you would outside for half that price - if you could find somewhere handy of course. The morning I did more walking aorund the town - as I say it is very picturesque. Its like a little Venice - a rather ropy little canal waterway runs thru the bottom of town - hence the Rue de Poissonerie (fishers street) no doubt. There is a covered market which sells lot of cheeses and vegetables and pastries and pretzels (?!) and has some food counters. So lots more snaps of those old old timbered houses etc. I was considering a light lunch and ended up having a simple onion tart with salad for 7E at a place run by 3 old ladies - most of whom seemed to around or over 70. The table was outside so this was pleasant. So then to the station and a train at 4pm to Strasbourg (more continues).

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Photos

yes, its Swiss time
or close to...

Basel - yes they have Maccas
but with trams

Colmar
typical buildings

Colmar canal
little Venice??

Colmar
you get the general idea

kugelhof in Colmar
and other assorted delicacies

Comments

[Huddo]

Old world style.
Hi Mike, What a treasure trove in Basel, and Colmar. Those descriptions, and photo's were superb. Lovely dinner and lunch, watch looked good! Love Huddo and girls.