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Published: November 7th 2016
Hunnebostrand to Frederikshaven – 74nm
Big day!! Had a few places we could stop off at in Denmark, depending on how we were travelling. Came to the first place and all was good, wind was fine, we were going well, so decided to continue on to the second place. However, buy the time we got to the next place...there was nowhere to berth. It was getting dark, so we had to make a decision fast. We took off, heading to the an island just across the way, but looking at the guide book, it was smaller than where we’d just been and really no depth. I noticed Frederikshaven, but it said that there was 2m, of well, we’ll give it a go. As we were approaching, we noticed some big dark shapes (like massive buoys) we just gave way to a ferry and were heading to the entrance to the marina when we got a call on the radio...”Restless Spirit” you are crossing the area for an extension to the harbour wall, it will get very shallow, you need to turn around” Phil noticed our depth
had dropped to 1.7m. Turned abruptly (we were motoring at this stage) and we continued around the large dark shapes. We were watching our depth very carefully as we entered the marina but it never got lower than 1.8m. We may have had extra depth - wind affected depth it’s called, and on entering, there was a long, empty wall, just for us to tie up against. Oh yay. We’d just tied up and another boat came in behind us. We don’t like coming in to new places in the dark, but sometimes it has to be done. Once again, paid at a machine, got the wifi code and toilet codes on the receipt and all was good. We had eaten already, I cooked up a stew while we were underway, so nice to relax and have an early night. Had a great shower as you put money on the card you got at the machine and then the shower just took the money as it was needed. No stopping and starting or pushing buttons to make the water flow.
Frederikshaven to Hals – 32nm
Really didn’t want to leave this little haven, yesterday took it out of me, and we were comfortable against this nice wall. But early in the morning we were off. Had a beautiful sail all the way – wind behind us, strong enough for us to go fast, but as it was behind us, very comfortable. Very different story however when we turned into the channel to get to Hals...on the nose – wind and waves, lucky it wasn’t far. Very fortunate again that there was wall space free, but the wind was pushing us off so Phil didn’t quite get close enough for me to jump off. There was a couple just sitting on a bench on the wall though so I called out to them to see if I could through them my line. I don’t think they spoke much English, but the lady nodded, caught my line and then through sign language I got her to quickly tie it around the cleat. She initially tried to pull us in, but there
was no chance. Once she had secured it, I could pull us in to the wall and then jump off with the bow line, secured that and then got the stern done. Wouldn’t have been so easy if there wasn’t anyone there!
Hals is a quaint little town, stayed here 2 nights as the wind was too strong and in the wrong direction. Had a great pizza the first night and ate on board the second. Saw a local sailing race night – when we thought the wind was too strong...why would they do it? Oh that’s right...for fun!! We used to!!!! Crazy sailing right up the channel – a big ship was also coming and some yachts came too close..sure enough, there sounded his horn.
Hals to Logstor – 42nm
Set off nice and early as we wanted to get our passports all sorted and stamped at Aalborg and then wanted to continue on up the canal. At
this stage there looks like there may be a weather window on Saturday or Sunday so we want to get up to the end of the canal and sit there to wait good weather. So, mostly motoring today up the windy canal, had to pass under a bridge just before we got to Aalborg and thought there may be quite a wait – some literature we read said it opened on the half and full hour, others said it opened on demand...so we called up on the radio and were told we had a 10min wait, then we could transit through both the road and rail bridges. No problems, there was quite a current pulling, so we turned up into it and pretty much held our position. Saw a couple of seals about while we were waiting and then it was right through.
Got a taxi to the police station and then found the right office. Had a bit of a wait, as the guy who told us to call him was not answering his phone. Then when our number was called, the lady in the office couldn’t find him either. She
wasn’t exactly sure what was supposed to happen with our passports, so she took us back to the first office we were in and then took our passports off and told us to wait. 10 mins later she returns with our passports and we were all stamped out!!
So we caught a taxi back to boat and were off again. Continued on to Logstor. What an amazing little place this is. Just loved it. I went for a quick walk to the shops as I really just felt like chicken salad for dinner while Phil waited at the boat for the harbour master. Apparently he comes around to the boats to collect the payment between 5-6pm. By 6:30 he hadn’t come past and we really wanted to go for a walk to explore, so we took off for about half hour. Just beautiful. Little shell beaches and some funny lego looking houses on the coast. It was so peaceful, so calm. Just totally refreshing. There were some cats hanging around. A mother and her 3 kittens. I may have offered them just a few little scraps once! They were in good condition
and obviously lived under the pontoons. We had our dinner after our walk, a bit late, but he walk was worth it, and the harbour master never came.
Logstor to Fur Island – 17nm
So after such a beautiful little spot, it was difficult to depart this morning, but onwards we must go. The wind was a bit on the nose to begin with, but after a we got through the channel and turned more south we could sail….and sail we did, fast! We wanted to head north around Fur Island, but with the winds, we had to head south around Fur Island, no problems, will travel as the winds dictate. As we were approaching the channel between Fur and the mainland, Phil decided we needed some tacking practise….and we did, tack left, tack right, tack here, tack there..oh my aching arms. Then finally we had to start the motor as we had to dodge and island, and miss a ferry that was going back and forward between fur and the mainland. We passed the ferry ok, killed the motor and continued sailing. We passed a few strange looking boat
type floating parade ‘floats’ – we later found out that they are made each year and entered into an event. They were heading up to Logstor.
So we had just passed the ferry, were heading up another channel..when BANG!! Again!!!!! Our repairs and broken and the Heady was once again unattached from the boat. This time it really had come off and the furler was hanging over the side. So…..we didn’t have the main up, we turned the motor on, we were in a space where there was enough water all around us, and not in the channel. Phil got the furler in close to the boat, then we swapped, I went up to the sail, Phil took the helm, and somehow I managed to get the sail down and on the deck. We had just passed Fur Island Marina, so we turned around and headed right back into that little marina. We tied up alongside and assessed the damage. Phil realised that the bolt through the deck had just pulled right out with all the pressure.
We met the harbour master, he couldn’t speak much English, but a guy who was chatting to
him could and came to have a look. He keeps his boat here often and knows the island well. So once he saw the problem, he told us where we should go to see first the local boat builder, for wood - we’re going to make a new bowsprit – and a blacksmith who works with stainless steel.
We walked down to the boat builder – who didn’t speak English much at all, but through sign language, and writing down figures, we were able to get a piece of mahogany the right size. We walked back to the boat. At the same time, the guy who we first spoke to had been on the phone to the chandlery on the mainland to see if we could get a bowsprit fitting the same as ours. Turns out he can….but from Australia and…in a week. Oh well, will try the blacksmith. As we were about to head off to find the blacksmith, another guy comes walking over…checking things out. I did the friendly thing and started chatting to him, explained our problems. Etc etc. Thinking here we go again, always explain stuff. He spoke English very well and introduced
himself as the temporary Harbour Master (now called HM). And then we’d found our Guardian Angel. He sails, knows boats, and lives on the island. He said he would take us out to the blacksmith. We walked to his house, got in his car and drove out. So glad we did…don’t think we would’ve found it otherwise. Once we got there the blacksmith shop was all open, but no one was there. So HM called B on his mobile. He was just finishing off at another job, would be about 10mins but we were to help ourselves to a beer in his fridge. Lots of discussion a couple of beers later HM translating when necessary and it was decided that B could do something that would do the job for us….by Saturday (in 2 days)
HM took us for a quick tour around the island, and then when we got back to the boat, took Phil back down to the boat builder to get the bowsprit cut perfectly to size…now that he could translate. I didn’t go, but from the time it took, I do believe that some beers were required in order to determine the exact,
I forgot to mention, that just before we left to see B, Phil saw a fishing boat come in and went to see what they’d caught….hmm, lots of tasty looking lobsters. So he bought one!! Shoved it in the fridge and then we went. So when we got back, there was a sedated lobster in our fridge just waiting for the boiling pot. We had to take his claws off to fit it in the pot, but fit it did. And wasn’t it the tastiest lobster EVER!!! HM had told us that Fur Island lobsters were very well known due to the cleanest waters around the island. We had already planned to have steak, so surf and turf it was!!
Rainy day today so can’t do much. Don’t want to do anything too much until we have the fittings anyway.
Sunny today, so good for doing our job. Decided we might have to go see B ourselves as HM had gone across to the mainland yesterday and we weren’t sure how to contact
B. So though we were going to have to walk. However we saw a bike hire place just up the road. We asked if we could hire a bike, there were some available but they were $20 a day. We explained to the lady our problem, she showed us where we’d have to go on the local map to find B. I asked if we could just hire one bike for an hour for Phil to make the trip. She said we could. We went back to boat for Phil to get shoes and then off he went. As it turned out, he met B coming out of his workshop with the parts…he was just on his way to us. Oh, and the lady at the bike hire place didn’t charge us a cent.
So we’d done a dry fit with the bowsprit earlier, so everything was ready to go. The sun was shining, and all went together quite easy in the end. Job done. Now for the sikka to dry. Looks good and sturdy. B had fixed one of the fittings and remade another. Neither the blacksmith or the boat builder had charged exorbitant prices that
I expected being on an island.
For dinner that night we went to a local little pub at the marina. A good, huge fisherman’s feed. Nice, friendly locals. A good way to end the night. I went to leave a note up at HM’s house, and we put one in the guys boat who helped us out first. The sunset was stunning that night. I think Fur Island must have been the most friendly place we have been to..everyone so helpful.
Fur Island to Tyboron – 38nm
Not far to go today, so a nice 9am start. A good trip, pretty uneventful, but be did have to pass through two opening bridges. The first one we had to wait a short time, and the current was fairly strong and were told we had a 10min wait, then we could transit through both the road and rail bridges. No problems, there was quite a current pulling, so we turned up into it and pretty much held our position. Saw a couple of seals about while we were waiting and then it was right through.
Another bit of a wait for the rail bridge for no apparent reason, but there you go, nothing major. Lots of sailing today, in a channel up to Tyboron we had wind generators along one side and very shallow water on the other. Then there was a dredger right in the middle, but plenty of room to go either side (once you got close you could see this, but from a distance it looked like it was taking up all the room)
We tied up in the marina and were glad that we were going to be moving on the next day – it was dirty, and smelly, a working marina, with lots of big boats – fishing and other. We walked up to the local store to get something for dinner and a few bits and pieces and then after dinner Phil did a final weather check…….and decided it was best we left…NOW!
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