We depart our hotel in Pilsen, weaving our way through rather drab residential suburbs that remind us of Dunstable. Drab, down at heel and absolutely nothing to commend it. Suddenly our journey is near doubled in length as the satnav announces that Route 19 is closed, meaning we have to do two sides of a triangle to get to our destination. The rain drizzles down and the skies are grey. Past mile upon mile of wheatfields, rolling hills, not a farm animal to be seen and not too much traffic either. We are tempted to stop to see the Archduke Frank Ferdinand's country estate, with his extensive gardens, but by now the rain is monsoon strength so that is suddenly unappealing. Next attempted visit is to Tabor, a medieval old town in the middle of a
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