An unexpected nice town – C. Budvar

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I already said that Plzn/Pilsen was not very exciting – and the main attraction (the Synagogue) closed – so it was a real delight to come to Ceske Budejowice with no expectations at all and to be very pleasantly surprised by the town as a whole. Although I stayed nr the bus station at Plzn, there seem to be no buses to C. Budw. at all and only a train every 2 hours or so – and the train station was on the other side of town. So had scoped that out by taking a walk over in that direction the previous evening – and realised that a horror intersection near it with the old stairs down to subway under the road – i.e. 2 lots of stairs with heavy bag, to be avoided! So a trolley bus to save the walking was one way to save effort of getting there as it would take 15 mins or so. The avenue Amerika was a main one for trolleys so no waiting there. Just had to skirt around the intersection the long way without going under to get to station entrance.

The train left C. Budw. more or less on time – I had sat in a 1st class compartment (there was a no.1 on my ticket somewhere) and the conductor told me in Czech something but left me as I spoke none – this was the version from the young lad opposite who said the price difference was likely only 15Kr or so on a 170kr ticket. However after 25mins the train ground to a halt – everyone off onto buses – the guy told me that this was about average for CZ railways. There were only 5 buses and I had to stand and strap hang as the bus roamed the back country lanes – good reason to admire the lovely green fields (Australia is a boring wide brown land when it comes down to it). Fortunately this torture was only for 30 mins or so to Napromuk or somewhere when we piled back on a train which then toodled on to Ceske Budejowice without further incident, but about 45 mins later than schedule. Found the street in which the U Tri Lvu hotel (street name the same – the Three Lions, but the girl at the hotel did not know what this referred to). However although had the number, 3A, could not find it – but it was tucked right off the street in a side square.

Wandered off into town in the general direction of the central square – hardly need a map as centre quite small. Went into a Marks & Spencer store – with a H&M (also discount clothing) a few doors away and checked out shirts (I only brought 4 in very low key wardrobe, but wash every day in the basin). No cheap shirts on sale there – one shirt I brought I bought in Finland in 2009 for 9Euro (less than $13) – was not going to pay 700Kr-almost $40 unless it was s’thing I rather liked (and they weren’t). Found the Black Tower (closed then but up the very steep stairs the next day before leaving for a good view). I just found the buildings in the side streets around the outside of the square totally charming as they are all mostly of the same period – 18thC burgher houses they say and many covered arcades. There was a similar uniformity of the building styles, yet differences in decoration etc – so much nicer than Plzn which was an unasserted mess of styles. This is what was such a pleasant surprise about the town.

Ended up in the town square which is one of the biggest in Europe apparently – Plzn was also very large but boring by comparison. Decided to eat in a restaurant on the square called Vendetta which largely did Italian food. A minestrone seemed to have quite a lot of fried potato cubes in it (oh, local versions on the classics) but was none the worse for it. Then penne with bacon and artichokes which was prettyOK. A decaf espresso and had to try a Becherovka herbal liqueur – a sort of Czech bitters (once called English Bitters). I was expecting it to be rather bitter and ‘medicinal’ but instead surprised by the cinnamon/anise notes – will def. buy a bottle for later consumption!

The weather has continued sunny, although cooler so after breakfast the next day had a further 2 hours or so to wander around town. Climbed the stairs to top of the Black Tower and also looked in the church next door. Then headed to the station for the train – 25mins late leaving but now in Cesky Krumlov. And more on that later.

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Photos

U Tri Lvu design
on The 3 Lions street

U Tri Lvu nouveau
have I got my styles right?

Cabaret Happy
with police car protection!

the big new bus station
the exit bit

crazy cat ad
see this all over - bit of a laugh

busy sculpture
lot of public sculpture in CZ

KB bank bldg
style decoration

a typical side street
behind the square

the Town Hall
in German, Rathaus

London Olympics display
and the Black Tower behind over the square

a key sculpture
fr. 86,000 keys -spells Revoluce (revolution)

a football cake
down to player taking a "dive"

the square Nam Premysla Otakara II
from the Black Tower