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Published: October 24th 2012
Warsaw Poland
This was Russia's gift to Poland after they occupied the country. Tallest building there and possibly the ugliest.Prior to retiring, we made ourselves a promise, if a last minute travel deal came our way we would take advantage and jump on it!. We put our every day life on hold and organized a trip based on this last minute deal to Eastern Europe - specifically the cities of Warsaw & Krakow in Poland, Prague and Czecky Krumlov in the Czech Republic, Vienna, Austria and Budapest, Hungary. This part of the world has always been on our list. The air flight deal we found was to Warsaw so on August 28th we scheduled our trip leaving Portland on September 13th and returning October 4th.
We began researching hotels and quickly learned that the month of September is convention month in Poland and The Czech Republic so we did not always get our first request. However, thanks to Rick Steves guide books and the internet we found what we hoped would be great accomadations. Of course this type of spontaneity had some set backs and we ended up making some audibles while travelling.
Warsaw, is a city rebuilt from the rubble of World War II Nazi invasion and the systematic elimination of the Jewish population. Today the old
town and the Polish castle have been rebuilt per the original specifications to a vibrant and exciting Mecca for visitors. The outdoor cafes, the specialty museums, and the churchs are inspiring and entertaining.
We arrived after flying from Portland via Amsterdam at 5PM and forced ourselves to stay awake till 8PM and then we collapsed for 10 hours of recuperation and an attempt to recover from sleep deprivation.
Our first full day was spent in the old town walking, enjoying the sights with a lunch that included the ever present pirogues’ (dumplings). There are multiple varieties of fillings for these lovely morsels. Think of ravioli but no marinara sauce, instead melted butter, sour cream or meat gravy.
A leisurely wake up and breakfast buffet then a short walk to the central train station and our journey continues to Krakow. One note on the central train station, it is modern with multiple restaurants and coffee shops and yes, Starbucks! The station is clean, modern, well run and punctual.
I found my self thinking, if the rest of our adventure is as easy and enjoyable as the start what a great travel memory this will be.
Krakow
welcomed us with warm sunshine, friendly people, and cobblestone streets. The 10 minute stroll to our hotel, Grodek, was easy and gave us a taste of what we would love about this Grand Eastern European city. Exploring began immediately. We found the core of the city, the largest market square in Europe. The huge cloth store in the center is filled with shops selling local souvenirs, this building dates to the 12
th century where merchants would sell fabric from all over Europe and Asia. Outdoor cafes ring the square - great for watching people, enjoying local cuisine or enjoying a local beer or wine or coffee. There are less expensive places to consume the same cuisine but non with the ambiance of these cafes. A warm blanket and outdoor heaters are always available if it's to chilly. Saint Mary’s cathedral on the NW corner of the square has the largest hand carved wooden alter in all of Europe. It's made from the local Linden tree and displays magnificent wooden statues 7’ to 7’ 6” tall. It is said that models for these statues were the hospital patients and when you look closely you will see their deformities. A 4 hour
bike tour of the old town on the 2
nd day of our visit, was a very good decision. It gave us an understanding of the city's history and the location of all the sites. Our English speaking guide, a couple from England and a young man from Belgium made up our band of bike peddlers. We toured the market square, Kaizamierz (old Jewish quarter), University section and Wawel Castle. The next day we investigated the Castle and the Cathedral in more depth while eavesdropping on other English speaking tours. Leaving Krakow for a full days train travel to Prague, Czech Republic, was a day of clouds and rain - a good day to travel.
Prague Castle overlooks the city and it's 100’s of church and palace spires. The main attraction here is the main square with multiple churches and the Astronomical Clock tower. Arriving after a 5 hour train ride that was shared part of the way with a group of Londoners we found Hotel Antik, our base for the next 5 nights. Perfect location just off the main square and very central to all the sights of the city. First day tour, the Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral
on the hill above the city, rendering fantastic views. Quickly adapting to the great food and easy way of life in this magical city we enjoyed Borscht soup and goulash in a bread bowl. Our best meal came later at the Mill - Lamb chops and pork ribs - two very exceptional dinners. A lot of time was spent in Prague taking photos of the centuries old architecture. We enjoyed viewing the memorial the Czech people gave to John Lennon. He was an inspiration to them for freedom. The memorial started after his death while the country was still under communist rule. Today you could almost call it a shrine. Prague truly is one of the great cities of Europe. One evening we enjoyed a symphony performance at the Art Noveau Municipal building. Another evening at the Baroque style St. James church, we listened to an organ, trumpet, soprano soloist concert. Days were spent in the Mocha museum of Art Noveau and the Museum of Communism. Diversification was the order of the day.
Saying good bye to central Prague we find our way to the Andel area of town to catch the 3 hour Student Agency bus to the
town of Cesky Krumlov. This small town is home to the summer castle of the Rothenberg family; their other castle home is the one high on the hill in Prague. Cesky is a small town with the Vital River forming a natural moat surrounding it with the castle above serving as on overseer and protector of the village. We joined a local walking tour to learn about the history of the city and its inhabitants and found it a wonderful way to learn more about Czech history. We met a couple from Toronto, John and Kathleen, and enjoyed wonderful dinner afterwards on a terrace overlooking the river.
Next stop Vienna, Austria. We navigated our way there with a shuttle bus to Linz, Austria and then rode the train to Vienna. The Pension Nossek, located in the heart of the city on Graben Strasse, was easily accessible via the Underground rail system, fast, efficient and more than cost effective. To save time we purchased our rail tickets for our next and final destination, Budapest Hungary before boarding the metro to our hotel.
Turns out Vienna was celebrating the 100th anniversary of an artist we like, Gustav Klimt, a native
of Vienna. So we decided to visit of the Belvedere Palace where a presentation of Klimt work and life were being presented. The coffee houses with an array of delicious and rich desserts weren't good for our waistlines. Culture wise, we again enjoyed a Mozart concert. This time in the Golden Room of the Musikverein palace. Our balcony box seats gave us an excellent vantage point to watch the musicians in their period costumes complete with powdered wigs.
Touring the Versailles of Eastern Europe, better known as the Schornburn Palace was an insight to the opulent world of the Hapsburg dynasty and all of their idiosyncrasies. Especially Empress Maria Theresa who was the mother of 16 children, and lived till the age of 63. Was this woman ever not pregnant! She reigned without ever waging war. Instead she used diplomacy marrying off her daughters to rulers of other countries. Of course the one everyone talked about was Kaiserin Elisabeth better know as Sisi She was the Princess Diana of the time. She was obsessed with her appearance and after the age of 31 she was never seen in public without a veil. The rumor was she had bad teeth!
We finished our day at the Black Kameel (Camel) wine bar with a delicious antipasto of thin slice ham and horseradish sandwiches. A great way to end our time in Wien.
Now on the Rail Jet train to Budapest, about 3 hours, and back to soviet era history and the rebirth of Hungary in the 21
st century. We are anticipating the Taking of the Waters as the locals refer to the local thermal baths.
Budapest has not been a disappointment. Subway system from the Ketiel train station to the Opera stop on the Yellow #1 line and a 2 block walk to our hotel, Casati Hotel (the new name of the old Pest Hotel). This renovated hotel in the modern Italian style is great, large room, comfortable bed, hot shower and free WiFi in the room it is everything a traveler wants, not to mention central and easy to get to everything. We settled in and then off to the Buda Castle and St. Mathias church high above the city. We lingered here till after dark to see the lights of the city below illuminate the Parliament bldg, Chain bridge and multiple grand palaces and church’s, not to
Parliament bldg
Taken from the Buda Castle mention the castle and the church where we stood.
Sunday we treated ourselves to a 4 hour Segway tour of the city and what a great time. A 30 minute orientation and we were off, zipping in and out of the pedestrian traffic, jumping on and off curbs and learning about this amazing city. Bridgett, our guide, was a delight and kept us well informed of the many highlights of Budapest. We finished the day with a walk across the Chain bridge and the lights of Buda above and Pest along the Danube River bank. A full moon greeted us and we were not disappointed with the pictures it rendered.
Monday and the indoor grand market, a turn of the century building in the erector set style of the time. Two stories of local produce, fresh meat, restaurants, souvenirs of Paprika, lace and hand crochet linens. What a treat. The sun was shining and the 75 degree temperatures meant only one thing. Yes it was time for the Taking of the Waters, thermal baths. This was one of a dozen of the thermal baths and spa’s that are in Budapest and we were not disappointed. Multiple pools, saunas,
every pool a different temperature and every size, shape and nationality represented, this is a cultural experience not to be missed in the grand scheme of Budapest. Tuesday was our cultural day with an evening performance in the Budapest Grand Opera, thank you for English subtitles. This is the second largest Opera House in Europe second only to Vienna, both of them built by the Hapsburg Empire. Parliament building, built to coincide with Hungary’s 1000 year celebration in 1896 has the most beautiful interior, it’s only rival is the palace of Versailles outside of Paris. The most interesting thing learned while in Budapest was that Paprika is not an exotic spice but rather ground up peppers, common old peppers that you see every day in the grocery stores. Available in sweet or hot and is in a salt type shaker on the tables of restaurants. Think of it as Hungary’s answer to Tabasco.
We are home in Portland and recovering from jet lag but happy to be back in the city of roses and a beautiful Indian summer fall day. Hope you enjoy the pictures and as allways we enjoy your feedback.
Bill and Mary
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Rod MacKenzie
non-member comment
Another great adventure !
As always, enjoyed your photos capturing beautiful and historical eastern Europe. I think its great you continue to fulfull your dreams of exploring the world. Rod