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Published: July 17th 2013
As is it was to be a long journey from Cesky Krumlov to the small town of Teplice we broke the journey in Hradec Kralove, North East of Prague. Another town with an ancient city centre. There was an informative walk around the centre with posts in English so that you knew what you were looking at. A pleasant way to spend a few hours, but not worth a journey in itself. The town was completely dead on a Saturday, no atmosphere at all.
Teplice is a small place on the northern Polish border, the reason to go there are the walks through the wonderful sandstone rock formations, the largest single rock formation in Europe. If you imagine Bryce canyon in grey placed in a pine forest you have a picture of it. Huge weathered rocks, lots of walks and lots of forest. It’s a popular destination with many families from Czech Republic, Poland and Germany. On the afternoon of the day we arrived we just did small walks in Teplice and on the second full day we walked from Teplice to Adrspach which is the town at the other end of the
rock formations. The yellow trail, or Wolf Gorge walk, between the towns has a No Entry sign but our host told us that it was fine. It was a good walk but 3km over broken wooden walkways that cross bogs, a bit of a balancing act. I was walking delicately along hoping not to fall through, we passed lots of heavy tramping locals stomping their way across, far more confident than I was. Walked all around the Adrspach area and then walked back along the yellow trail and did the trails we’d missed yesterday in Teplice, over 20km. Stunning landscape with lots of well-marked trails. The only thing not recommended is the boat trip, especially if you don’t understand Czech, as it’s not to see the rocks from the water but a jokey trip with a continuous commentary about the strange statuary that someone has placed around the small lake.
We stayed at a pleasant guest house called Tara near the Teplice entrance. The train from Hradec Kralove was easy enough with just a couple of changes to trains that were waiting at very small stations.
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