Around the Adriatic: Croatia - Lovran, Saturday, 2019 April 13


Advertisement
Croatia's flag
Europe » Croatia » Istria » Lovran
April 13th 2019
Published: June 12th 2020
Edit Blog Post

We woke to a sunny day full of promise for a spectacular trip to the top of Mount Ucka. The highway was winding, and the asphalt road up through the parkland was even more winding, with potholes.

About half way up the mountain, to our initial delight, the trees were decked in crystallized snow. To our dismay, eventually there was enough slushy ice on the road that the two buses had to stop. Our drivers worried that the tires would not be able to negotiate the downwards return journey if there were more ice higher up. Full of vigour we donned our warm clothes and jaunted along on foot, enjoying the beautiful photo ops … until the ice became too slippery for walking safely, especially for our two sub-tropical companions from California and Hawaii. The men and Manka’s son, Mici, responded to nature’s challenge and continued on to the top.

The women wandered slowly back down, marveling at how the the ice sparkled on the heavily coated branches. Sudden wind bursts propelled little ice shards onto our unprotected faces and hands – quite painful. We took lots of photos.

We heard Bill singing and knew the men were returning.
Truffle pasta Truffle pasta Truffle pasta

Delicious and welcome after the chilly morning
Gary responded with songs of his own. Quite often the two of them inspire us to sing along, lifting our already high spirits. Showing off for us, Bill danced a few leaping and twirling steps. Mici was grinning with pride at his venture.

Lunch was at a large restaurant overlooking the sea. Although there was a large terrace overlooking the spectacular view, the weather was so windy and cold that we ate inside. My choice was a deeply flavoured truffle pasta.

Our afternoon visit was to Mošćenice, a village still functioning within its medieval walls. Vesna, our eccentric, jolly guide, met us at its single stone gate. Sporting bright red hair in a spiky cut, she was an important custodian of the village’s history. Hers was one of only eighty households in the relatively unchanged village. The miniscule streets and tiny stone homes belied the quick footsteps of the residents who moved by us, most greeting Vesna as they passed. The cute souvenir shop had marvelous paintings of the buildings in a bright, graphic style; they were on found wood and roof tiles - much too heavy to take home.

Sitting at the high point of the
Painting on found wood Painting on found wood Painting on found wood

Bright view of a stone village
walls, overlooking the steep descent into the valley, Vesna told us about a girl from below in Mošćenička Draga who once fell in love with a fellow from the village. Every evening she was the one who climbed up to sit with him on the bench. Eventually they told their families and they married. This was her story!

Vesna would not let us leave without visiting the Archaeological Museum. To welcome us she had lemon-flavoured and honey-flavoured brandies to sample. For me, the lemon brandy had too much oil from the peel. The honey brandy was wonderful, distinctly and smoothly flavoured. The museum was dominated by a local olive oil press that pre-dated manufacturing and commercial bottling. The surrounding displays of traditional vessels and implements were impressively complete, perhaps because this village is comparatively isolated, giving it a stable history based on family life.

Returning to Lovran, we had free time. I put on all my warm clothes again, including my fuzzy hat and scarf, to walk in the buffeting wind along the seafront park. Other tourists were also doing their best to ignore the weather, happy enough that the sun was shining brightly. Inland of the path
Coastal walk in Lovran Coastal walk in Lovran Coastal walk in Lovran

Windy, chilly and sunny
was a narrow park with benches and flower beds. On the sea side, smashing waves crashed against the bedrock and the concrete infrastructure supporting facilities for swimming in calmer times. On a small pebble beach was a children’s playground, although no one was playing.

Elizabeth and I walked twenty minutes out and twenty minutes back. We returned with just sufficient minutes for a quick dip in the hotel indoor swimming pool.

Our group walked a short way to Knezgrad Restaurant, a cozy place patronized mainly by locals. We were served pork medallions and dumplings with a good local red wine.

Advertisement

Village streetVillage street
Village street

near Lovran
Vista of spring snow Vista of spring snow
Vista of spring snow

Mount Ucka
Rock face, winding roadRock face, winding road
Rock face, winding road
Snowy patternsSnowy patterns
Snowy patterns
Snow pasted to one side of tree trunksSnow pasted to one side of tree trunks
Snow pasted to one side of tree trunks
Sky after the snow storm Sky after the snow storm
Sky after the snow storm
Mošćenička Draga Mošćenička Draga
Mošćenička Draga

1000 years of history
Fortification walls of Moscenice  Fortification walls of Moscenice
Fortification walls of Moscenice

Upper town
View from Mošćenice View from Mošćenice
View from Mošćenice

Meeting place in guide's romance
Easter artwork Easter artwork
Easter artwork
Historic household olive oil vat Historic household olive oil vat
Historic household olive oil vat
Moscenice street Moscenice street
Moscenice street

Tiny village, streets mean for walking
Our enthusiastic guide, Vesna Our enthusiastic guide, Vesna
Our enthusiastic guide, Vesna

Mošćenice
Public fountain Public fountain
Public fountain

Historic and still working
St Andrew's Church St Andrew's Church
St Andrew's Church

Much modified during 17th to 19th centuries
 Andrew, a fisher of men Andrew, a fisher of men
Andrew, a fisher of men

St Andrew's Church
St Andrew's central altar St Andrew's central altar
St Andrew's central altar

Intimate worship


14th June 2020
Truffle pasta

Ice and Truffles
Your snow covered tree photos are very beautiful, but they couldn't compete with this delicious looking plate :)
14th June 2020
Truffle pasta

Ice and Truffles
Truffles and gorgeous views - a great day travelling!
14th June 2020

Brr!
I can almost feel the cold as you describe it. Climbing an icy hill wouldn't be on my list, either. I particularly like your three photos of the snowy trees, and I'm not usually a fan of photos with snow in them. It must have been even more striking in person.
20th June 2020

Snowy trees
I have lots more photos of the snow sculpting the trees. Beautiful views were everywhere.
20th June 2020

Snowy trees
I have lots more photos of the snow sculpting the trees. Beautiful views were everywhere.

Tot: 0.06s; Tpl: 0.014s; cc: 14; qc: 21; dbt: 0.0252s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1; ; mem: 1.1mb