Croatia 7 - In search of Doctor Who in Trogir


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May 5th 2013
Published: May 6th 2013
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The clock tower
What a day- Suzy started off parked up in Camping Rozac in Trogir . The plan was to walk into town, look around, come back and chill out for the rest of the day. However, all plans tend to go wrong or get changed depending on the weather or on the night sleep that we have had. Iguess that is one of the beauties of motorhoming - if you like it you stay, if you hate it you move on. Well last nights sleep was not brilliant. Noise travels fast on dark nights and there was a gathering of the Dutch camping club in the statics near to Suzy. Also the local disco set up and music wafted over from somewhere until the early hours of the morning.

After breakfast and a shower we headed off into Trogir before it started to rain. The blue skies had left us and the clouds gathered and it did not bode well for the walk. We had been given directions for a short cut by the Scottish couple we met yesterday. They told us to walk to the pelican crossing and take the short cut which was signed. What they didnt say was which pelican crossing. With Sion in our bag we set off . First crossing not far up the road -no sign of the shortcut. 2nd crossing a little further on up the hill - still no sign. Eventually we did find the third crossing and there was the shortcut through the houses which cut off the longer walk around the headland. It was a downhill walk which was even more of a bonus and came out right on the bridge into Trogir.

The waterfront setting is lovely with a pleasant harbour and moored up boats. The usual cafes spilled out Italian style into the street and we stopped at one for the usual espresso for me and Cappacino for Glenn. 17 kuna . The price of coffee in Croatia and Slovenia is much cheaper than buying them in Germany, France or Italy. Tat stalls set up along the waterfront selling soaps, leather goods, fridge magnets and other items which would be bought by the crowds expected that day.

Trogir is a world heritage site set on a small island just off the mainland. The reason for its status is mainly because of its Venetian heritage. An episode of Dr Who had been filmed here a few years ago. Trogir was used as a cheaper alternative to filming in Venice. We watched it and put it down as one of those places we really wanted to visit. It has taken us a while to do it but at last we found ourselves in a beautiful small but perfectly formed town.

Along the harbour front was the Kamerlengo fortress and St Marks Tower. This was the residence of the Venetian governor and built around 1430. It has high walls,towers and bastions but is not open. It is used in the summer for concerts. St Marks Lion had been defaced from the building and it was as if Trogir had tried to wipe Venice out of its life. But without Venice it would have been nothing as every building was Venetian with gothic windows and all alleyways Venetian styled. Palazzos in the Venetian style and a campanile. We drooled but then we always do with things Italian and particularly Venetian.The fortress originally was joined to St Marks Tower but over time much of the structure has been lost.

Palm trees lined the streets and partway up them rosy red
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A gothic window
snapdragons grew like parasites clinging to their host. The town was empty bar for a few tourists in the cafes and locals drinking coffee and talking. It feels a simple life in this part of the world.

The city had been founded originally by the Greeks in the 3rd century and over the years ruled by the Byzantine empire and the Romans but little remained of their influences. In the square were all the major buildings, the town houses and palaces of the ruling nobility. The Cipiko Palace built in 1457 was once the home of one of Trogirs most illustrious families. On the eastern side of the square the Town Hall built in the 15th century and the Loggia and Clock Tower. The Clock tower with its blue simple faced clock chiming the hours was built in the 15th century and inside was a memorial to the dead from the recent conflict of the Bosnian War of the 1990's. We saw many shrines to the dead along the roads of Croatia. The influence is still pretty strong .

Across the street the cathedral dedicated to St Laurence or Sv Lovre. It has an ornate and rather naive
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An alleyway
portal and door carvings. Adam and Eve clutching their fig leaves to cover their modesty. Inside the church was the usual mixture of Baroque and Gothic styles but with none of the beautiful stained glass you come to expect. There was a small treasury with free entrance which housed a few silver items and a few books and manuscripts.

The medieval world had come to Trogir today as from the 3rd to the 5th of May was a medieval festival. Outside the fortress men and wenches sat next to the stocks. In the square a medieval style merry go round was installed and children were loaded into it and swung around. Stalls were manned by medieval dressed youths selling sling shots, catapults, leather goods and replica items. It brought the town to life even more so than normal. Sion wished his friend Woolly had been here with him as they could have had a ride in the merry go round.

OUr walk back was marred by the rain which began to fall quite heavily. This made the decision to move on quite easy. WAter taken on board, emptying out of grey water. Once these were done we could
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The promenade with the Kamerlengo fortress at the top
go to pay and head out on the road to Dubrovnik . We had made the decision to break the journey as we had heard that the road was teeming with road works and it was a butt clenching ride due to the drops on one side as the roadside fell away to the sea. Tomorrow could be an interesting ride.


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Palm trees with snapdragons growing on them
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Medieval merry go round
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The cathedral door lintel
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Wish you were here Woolly


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