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Published: September 22nd 2018
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Today, after breakfast in the fake forest, we return to Croatia and the city of Split. We settle our bill, which comes with a free pipe (never know when that will come in handy) and depart.
Once out of Sarajevo, we drive along the Neretva river until the SatNav tells us to turn right, into the mountains. We climb and climb and climb. The views are spectacular. Eventually the road becomes a gravel track and we have to pick our way along 4 km of trail. It’s so ‘off road’ that after a long period of not seeing another vehicle, we start to get passed by 4x4s with drivers and co-drivers wearing helmets. We’re caught up in some sort of Paris-Dakar style rally.
Finally we reach the top, there’s an archway, the tarmac appears and we’re on a beautiful plateau with Swiss style chalets dotted around. It’s like we’ve driven through the gateway to another world.
We reach a fork in the road. Split is to the right but the road is closed, so we have no alternative other than turn left and begin our descent in the wrong direction. At the bottom is a small town with
a border crossing. It has no queue and we sail straight through. We have driven miles off course but gained most of the lost time back not having to queue at the border.
Shortly after arriving in Croatia, we are on a pristine motorway with tarmac so shiny and smooth I could kiss it, although it’s 29 degrees so it would probably burn my lips. We descend further until we finally reach the coast and Split.
As if karma has decided to give us a break, just as we pull up outside or guesthouse in the old town where parking is notoriously bad, a space becomes vacant and the landlady appears and tells us if we put £1 in the meter, that’ll cover us for the weekend (as parking is free from 2.30 on Saturday to the rather random time of 6.47 on Monday morning).
It has taken us just short of 5 hours to cover the 150 miles from Sarajevo, so we’re a little frazzled but Split is such a lovely place that it doesn’t take long to unwind.
Two things I know about Split; (1) it’s by the sea and (2) it has Roman
stuff. We start with the Roman stuff; Diocletian’s Palace to be more precise. It’s a fortified town, square with a gate on each side and contains hundreds of shops and restaurants.
The key buildings are in the middle. One ticket costs around £5.50 and covers entry all of them. Starting in the Peristil; a colonnaded courtyard, to the left is the octagonal Cathedral of St Donmius, built in the 4th century as a Roman mausoleum. Next to it is a bell tower. It’s 57 metres high and a bit like a wedding cake, with each tier smaller than the one below. It you’re brave, you can can climb a narrow, winding metal staircase to the top. I manage about two thirds before I end up clinging to a flimsy bannister unable to continue. Opposite is the Roman Temple of Jupiter which now contains a sculpture by Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic.
After our Roman white knuckle ride, we exit the city gate to the promenade and watch the hustle and bustle in the harbour with boat tours, ferries and cruise ships all jostling for position.
We round off the afternoon by climbing the 250 steps to the viewpoint
in Marjan Forest Park. It’s hard work, but worth it for the great view over the city and the harbour. Also, there’s a bar at the top where you can take a drink whilst further enjoying the view.
Then we return to our guesthouse via another work of Mestrovic; Gregory of Nin. He’s supposed to bring you luck if you touch his toe but he’s surrounded by a Chinese tour group and they’re taking no prisoners. So we return to our room where I fight a losing battle with a very unpredictable shower attachment – maybe I should have held out for a go on Gregory’s toe after all?
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