Ante's Intro to Dubrovnik

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I am stood at the top of the hill, underneath the great cross overlooking the city, re-built last year after it was destroyed in this regions gruesome war. From where we are we have a panoramic view of the famous medieval walled city below.

Thankfully we did not have to walk all the way up here in the blazing August sun, or take an extortionate, tourist fleecing cable car either. As a surprise, our guesthouse host, Ante, drove us up here in his car, giving us a brief history of his homeland in the process. As a host, he was proving pretty perfect.

After waking at 1.30am to ensure a prompt landing in Croatia’s most southerly city we arrived on the verge of delirium with tiredness. Ante, our accommodation owner, met us at the bus station after a beautiful journey along the dramatic coast from the airport, and drove us up the steep hill to his home. Although he could sense our exhaustion he took the time to explain the whole city’s layout including where we could get buses from ad which was the cheapest supermarket. Suitably excited we ignored our closing yes, showered and headed down to the harbour to check ferry times for the island of Mljet. The ferry left at 9.15am – another early start was in store!

After walking in the baking sun next to volcanic crystal blue water lined with Mediterranean pine trees and white houses with terracotta roofs for half an hour we avoided tourist trap restaurants and headed for Tommy’s supermarket.

Dubrovnik is stunningly beautiful on the eye but is less loving of a budget travellers’ wallet. However, for the price of a starter in most tout laden restaurants on the dockside Michelle and I sat on our terrace overlooking the bay, drinking cold beer and enjoying a self-made fresh salad.

It was after our catch up nap of a couple of hours that the effervescent Ante offered us the ride. It was a spectacular way to see the city and the bay, and to learn a lot about Dubrovnik from a man who has lived here all his life. Yes he harbours some prejudices towards his politically close neighbours of Bosnia, and Montenegro, but for him the war is still fresh in his mind and too recent to not talk about the impact on his homeland. Therefore the history lessons were somewhat biased but still gave us a basic overview of the area and its past.

We are lucky as ever on our travels with the people we meet. Once again a fluke booking paid off with a great host who gave more than was necessary in his role. Good ol’ Ante.

Our evening consisted of Mussels and Spaghetti in the old walled city we had looked down on earlier in the day. After sating our hunger we went on an unexpected Dan Brown-esque mission through the labyrinthine streets, before a twenty minute walk along the coast brought us home for more sleep before our early departure.

It is August and this seems to mean that Croatia is rammed to overflowing point, it also transpires that Croatians put prices up by 30% on everything just for this month, we are thankful we are half way through the month already or our trip will be much shorter than first planned! Tomorrow we take the morning ferry to the remote Island of Mljet for some camping and some rural cheaper living. We are both very excited about what is to come.

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