The Havana Club


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Published: June 9th 2016
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Classic Cuban SceneClassic Cuban SceneClassic Cuban Scene

Old, classical, colourful but relatively run-down buildings with an old, classic, colouful but relatively run-down car driving past outside - this picture is just classic Cuba.
Cuba! The time had finally come. To be completely honest, during my last or three weeks in Central America, I was feeling pretty jaded about my experiences there – there was nothing that I saw that was especially exciting or that I hadn’t really seen before and my travels from Antigua onwards felt more like a means to an end…with the end being Cuba!
Of my entire trip through Latin America, Cuba has been the place I have been looking forward to the most. A place of genuine difference and uniqueness – I wanted to see what likfe would have been like 50 years ago, by visiting a place that has hardly changed since. I’d never been to ‘communist’ country before so I wanted to see what it was like. It is the same reason that I am intrigued by Belarus – another place I’d eventually like to get to one day.

But I had heard that circumstances like the ones in Cuba also makes things difficult and bureaucratic. Stories of having to buy bottles of water incognito on the black market, little to no Wi-Fi, queues everywhere, segregation of locals and tourists, expensive tourist prices and never getting a
Classic CarsClassic CarsClassic Cars

Havana is full of them and it really is a joy to see them all on the street - they are one of the main reasons why Havana feels like a time warp.
straight answer – Cuba also promised to be hard work; a challenge.

Well, Mexico did its best to try and prepare me for what awaited in Cuba with some bureaucracy of its own – and really annoyingly and expensively, some unexpected and costly expenses.
First of all, despite being at the airport almost two hours before my flight, I ended up at the back of the check-in queue which took forever.
Now I always make sure that I have as little local currency on me as possible before leaving a country but this has backfired on me not just once, but twice. And now, three times.
Purchasing my Cuban tourist card while in the check-in queue, I then realised I had completely forgot that I would actually need money to purchase it. So I then had to go to the other side of the airport to the ATMs and get charged US$2 to get out the US$20 I needed for the visa.
When I finally get to the check-in desk, I am then told that I need to go to immigration to get a new stamp! So I go all the way over to the other side of the
This Was Taken In Present Day?This Was Taken In Present Day?This Was Taken In Present Day?

But it could so easily hae been taken 60-70 years ago. In Habana Vieja.
airport again and realise when I get there that there is a US$30 charge to leave the country. This is because when entering Mexico by land like I did, you have seven days for free in the country after which you have to pay the departure tax. If you entered by plane into Mexico, this tax is included in your fare. FFS. US$50 – two days’ budget – gone just like that. And of course another US$2 withdrawal fee to get more money out to pay the departure tax.
The upshot of all this was me having to run my way through security for the umpteenth time in my life in order to make my flight. While I was doing this, I also realised that there was no immigration to go through and that I didn’t get an exit stamp. Well, let’s hope I don’t f*cking need one! Grrrr. All shit you don’t want to have to deal with at six in the morning…

Arriving in Havana, the first thing I notice is that there is a lot of staff at the airport, many of them not doing much. Perhaps not surprising in a socialist country.
I then find
Plaza ViejaPlaza ViejaPlaza Vieja

Habana Vieja's prettiest square and with good reason. Colourful arched buildings host cafes and bars with live bands rolling out salsa/son/trova. Oh so Cuba.
out my debit card doesn’t work here, but only my credit card does. If it stays like this throughout Cuba, then it’s going to get expensive with all these credit card withdrawal fees. Things already promised to be expensive here anyway!

So you know how I said that Cuba hasn’t changed for 50 years? Well, from my first impressions of Havana, it really hasn’t! Classic cars are everywhere! Propaganda is everywhere! ”Patria o muerte!” (“Motherland or death!” “Amo la isla!” (“Love the island!”).
Beautiful architecture and colour! Art deco! French neoclassicism! Peeling, pastel paint! No modern buildings!
This was more like the hot, beautiful Latin American cities that you see in the movies and that I expected to see more of in Central America, where things have become too westernised. Antigua and Panama City’s casco viejo were probably the only places with a similar feel, but this is a different level in terms of scale. I couldn’t wait to start exploring and taking photos.
There were two things that I needed to do first however.
First, I needed to get to my hostel and it seems that people here drive and walk all over the road with almost no traffic laws or
Street Life #1Street Life #1Street Life #1

There is always something interesting happening in front of you in Havana as there are always people out on the street, with no internet or TV to distract them. Combined with the beautiful surrounds, it lends to some cracking pictures.
control – no wonder my taxi driver was going so slow. Drivers in particular, are erratic and unpredictable.
Secondly, I needed to get some moneda nacional. Cuba is the only country in the world that I know of with two currencies. The moneda nacional (MN$) is mainly used by the locals, and the Cuban convertible (CUC$) which is pegged to the US dollar, is used mainly by tourists and locals lucky enough to get their hands on them. The exchange rate between the two currencies is fixed at 25:1, MN$ to CUC$. While ATMs will exclusively give you CUC$, it pays to change some of them at a Cadeca, the state-run bureau de change, for some MN$. Small businesses list all of their prices in MN$ and the small businesses are where you can find the bargains, particularly when it comes to food. For lunch that day, I managed to get a whole personal pizza (made fresh to order with a Pizza-Hut-but-better-style deep-dish crust), a glass of juice, a can of the local version of Fanta, a hot, small, toasted ham sandwich, two guava empanadas (!) and 1.5L bottle of water, for just MN$60 – or CUC$2.40 (US$2.40)!

To
Streets Of Centro HabanaStreets Of Centro HabanaStreets Of Centro Habana

Centro Habana was where my hostel was located and was the most 'real' of Havana's neighbourhoods. The buildings were all run down but they were still stunningly beautiful and colourful.
get these bargains, I had to walk around my hostel’s neighbourhood – the dirty, rough-and-tumble Centro Habana. The food shops I visited are literal hole-in-the-wall outfits where you can dine standing up against a counter and make small talk with the friendly locals. It was about as authentic an experience as you could get! Plus, despite the almost derelict conditions of all of the buildings, some of them are still gorgeous and colourful. I was really digging Cuba so far! And after taking a little time to understand their slurry, accented pronunciation (or lack thereof), I was able to get just about everything the locals were saying and have a decent conversation!
At night (and perhaps by day too), though Centro Habana looks sketchy, the children in the streets reassure you that it really isn’t. In fact, I never felt unsafe walking around anywhere in Havana. Granted, I’m always watching my back – a habit picked up in South America – but I always felt pretty confident that it was unlikely I’d be robbed here. There are hefty jail terms in Cuba if you’re found guilty of theft. The majority of Cuba’s residents are most definitely poor, but perhaps socialism’s
Street Life #2Street Life #2Street Life #2

People and kids going about their business in Centro Habana.
one benefit is that at least everyone has something – there are very few homeless people lying around on the streets.

As for the locals themselves, they seem very stern-faced, arrogant even, when you walk past them on the street and some even give you the once over, with disapproving, curious and suspicious eyes. But once you actually start talking to them and crack a joke, many of them are really friendly and helpful. It is in a Cuban’s nature to share and help out others. So although they might seem cold at first, rub them the right way and they are some of the friendliest people I have met in Latin America.

Back at the hostel, I met a fellow Kiwi in my dorm called Andy, a big, burly builder from Central Otago. It’s not something that has happened to me often and it was comforting being able to say and hear all the old Kiwi slang and expressions that I hadn’t heard for over a year now. Which was even more the case with Andy because being from the south, his accent was strong – to the point where even I noticed that just how much
Calle San MiguelCalle San MiguelCalle San Miguel

The always lively street my hostel was on in Centro Habana.
deviation there was in his pronunciation.
This was Andy’s first backpacking trip and he couldn’t really have picked a trickier place to travel to first!
Also at the hostel was Canadian Joe, Russian Xenia, and Norwegians Kris and Walter. We bonded over a few beers at our hostel’s rooftop bar and thus our very own Havana Club was formed.

As mentioned earlier, one of the reasons Cuba is difficult to travel is the dual currency, which is a real pain-in-the-proverbial to work out and just a recipe for locals to rip you off. I can understand why the poorer locals would do this but I hate being ripped off and it’s not the money it’s the principle. It’s just so weird having two completely different economies in the same place. And the disparity in prices are marked. Eating out at a restaurant for tourists can easily set you back CUC$5-CUC$15. Grabbing a personal size pizza from a hole-in-the-wall will put you back MN$15 (CUC$0.60), a locally produced soft drink MN$5 (CUC$0.20) and an ice-cream cone MN$1 (CUC$0.04!).
Paying in one currency and receiving change in another is a bit of an arithmetical nightmare as you are never quite sure
La Bodeguita Del MedioLa Bodeguita Del MedioLa Bodeguita Del Medio

A favourite haunt of Ernest Hemingway, this place was always packed - thus the photo from the outside with the bars in the frame. Inside is a classic Cuban wooden bar.
if you’ve received the right amount back. The currency of displayed prices often isn’t specified so you have to use your judgement and common sense to work out which it is – you can easily pay in CUC$ when the price is actually in MN$, resulting in you paying 25 times too much! Which is a dastardly and gargantuan rip-off and a way to lose a lot of money very quickly. And it’s not as if the local merchants will tell you if you have made a mistake – it is far too much money for them to say so.
As well as a dual currency however, there also seems to be dual prices – one for locals and one for tourists, which adds even more to the bitter feeling that you’re being fleeced to the bone. It is so frustrating not ever knowing whether the price given to you is the real one that everyone is supposed to pay (if such a price exists), or one just jacked up on the spot because the vendor can see that you’re a tourist.

Lonely Planet describes Cuba as being a place that maddeningly frustrates you one minute, yet unexpectedly inspires
Calle ObispoCalle ObispoCalle Obispo

The main pedestrian drag in Havana Vieja - with some gorgeously colourful (and restored) architecture on it near Plaza de Armas.
you the next – and you can probably detect how true this is when reading my blogs on the place! So enough about the maddening frustration and more about the unexpected inspiration.

The Havana Club reconvened the next morning as we all went for a walking tour around the old town, led ably by our guide; me.
Following a route mapped out in the Lonely Planet, we discover that the town centre is nice – very similar to Panama City’s casco viejo. The buildings are for the most part, restored (with more and more of them being restored as we speak) and all the churches are also here in the historic centre. Beautiful as it is however, it did feel a tad contrived compared to Centro Habana and I wouldn’t go as far as saying that the old town is breath-taking. But compared to the hustle and bustle of real lives being lived in Centro Habana, there is a much more relaxing (and expensive) atmosphere in the old town.
Central Habana still has my heart though. The streets here are full of people outside chatting, kids playing football and people just generally milling about – this is what people
Drive-ByDrive-ByDrive-By

Walter, Andy and Kris enjoy their ride along the Malecon.
do without the distraction of the internet and it’s so refreshing to see. The streets of Centro Habana are always alive.

The best part of the day – and perhaps of the trip so far – was in the evening, after our guided stroll, where we had the most classic Cuban/Havana experience you could have.
We hired one of those ubiquitous, beautiful old cars – ours was a 1958 Pontiac – and told our driver to cruise along the Malecon.
I’ll admit that I was a little sceptical about just how nice walking along a waterfront could be but Havana’s is truly something special. From the elegant neoclassical buildings that line it, the brilliant blue of the water, the old Cadillacs cruising by, and the waves crashing against the sea wall so hard that pedestrians could easily end up completely saturated if in the wrong place at the wrong time – there is just something magical about Havana’s Malecon.
But rather than walk it, we cruised it in our Pontiac convertible, the wind in our hair. The only thing that could make the experience more Cuban was to put on some salsa music, drink some beers and smoke some
Riding Along The MaleconRiding Along The MaleconRiding Along The Malecon

From the passenger seat of a 1958 Pontiac, we ride along the Malecon, a massive wave smashing its way over the sea wall in the distance.
Cuban cigars. So that’s exactly what we did. I don’t think I have ever felt like any more of a boss than I did during that hour. And I don’t think anyone else in our Havana Club would disagree. And I have to say that it was a pleasure sharing that hour with my party of five – they are moments we will have forever.

The cigars we smoked were enjoyable but I probably went a little overboard with them!
Needing both of my hands to operate my camera, I had to hold the cigar in my mouth the whole time and had to continuously puff it to keep it from going out. Doing this for ten to fifteen minutes isn’t really recommended and I ended up feeling pretty light headed and a little nauseous. It was probably the only thing that took away from my ‘power hour’ on the Malecon. Otherwise it was magical.
We were meant to watch the sunset while cruising in the car but we were about an hour too early. The sun sets around 8pm here and so we watched it go down from the footpath of the Malecon itself – itself not a
The MaleconThe MaleconThe Malecon

Havana's famous and evocative waterfront, lined with classic buildings, just before sunset.
bad experience either!

Such an exciting evening has us excited for a night out in Cuba’s capital. Our first-choice destination was La Fabrica, an art gallery that transforms into a club by night. However, the place was closed for a private function leaving our taxi drivers more than willing to take us to another place for another fare.
At the place they dropped us at – a place I still don’t know the name of or its exact location – there seemed to be an open-air concert going on with a salsa band blasting out some hip-shaking, hip-snaking tunes on stage. We all baulked at the CUC$25 entrance fee though. I’ve never paid that much to enter a club – OK, maybe I have – but for what it was, it seemed extortionate. They then cut it down to CUC$10 each but even that was quite a bit of money to get in. Finally, after we had all almost left to find cab back to Centro Habana, an old man finally dragged us back for a $CUC5 entrance fee, which was stomachable.
With the drinks inside cheap and strong – 70/30, rum/coke Cuba libres – we all got licked
Hot Havana NightHot Havana NightHot Havana Night

Our night out took in a live concert playing local music. I however don't know where this is and what the name of venue is. All I do know is that it was a good night.
and the party was lively too. We all got into the spirit (literally) and joined one of the longest conga lines I have ever seen, which took us onto the stage for a dance with the band. Can’t say I’ve really done that before. It seemed like an authentic local party with friendly locals and we had a hoot – especially Andy who was lovin’ it more than Justin Timberlake. An electronic DJ then really got the gringos going until close. It was an amazingly fun night to end what was an amazingly fun day.
After less than 48 hours in the country, Cuba already feels like it will be the best country I have visited so far. Everything really does feel like you have stepped back in time – the only country so far where just being here feels like a unique, authentic experience.

It was a late start for the Havana Club the next day as we set out for the Parque Historico Militar Cabanas-Morro – the location over the other side of the harbour where the city’s two Spanish-built forts are located. We certainly took our time getting there, stopping for food, drink, beer, ice cream,
Chillin' At El MorroChillin' At El MorroChillin' At El Morro

The Havana Club take a rest atop El Morro with a magnificent view of the Malecon behind them.
souvenirs and errands en route, before taking a launch over the harbour to the parque.
There is a nice view of downtown Havana from the Christ The Redeemer statue and we hung out there for a while only to discover that our next destination, the Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana was closed for a private function. The other fort however, El Morro, was open but we found that you could actually explore most of it without actually having to go inside and saved ourselves each CUC$6 in the process.
There was a 70m tunnel to explore and there were magnificent views of downtown Havana and the Malecon to enjoy as we all monged about with our hangovers.
While a couple of the others went out that night, there wouldn’t be any going out for me after two nights of interrupted sleep – and I still hadn’t caught up the sleep from my early flight over here from Cancun.

The next day, The Havana Club was no more, as my party of five all left for Vinales. I would loved to have joined them but their schedule was far too quick for me as I had about a
Diving Into The MaleconDiving Into The MaleconDiving Into The Malecon

Andy and Walter saw the local kids diving in so thought they'd join in. In the background is El Morro fort.
couple more weeks in Cuba than they all did. They were all here for just two weeks only and wanted to travel to the same places. Able to save costs with numbers, it made sense for them to all go together. For me however, I was to continue my Cuban adventure solo.

Sleeping in until midday – the shutters completely block out the light ensuring you have no idea what time it is when they are closed – I then got a big lunch for just CUC$1.40 before heading to Plaza de la Revolucion, home of a tower commemorating Jose Marti, the poet and patriot who led the revolt in the first war of independence against Spain, and an iconic portrait of the one and only Che Guevara on the front of an ugly government building.
Next, the Necropolis Cristobal Colon was impressive – a huge, extravagant cemetery similar to Recoleta in Buenos Aires, the Cementerio General in Santiago, and Granada’s Cementario. I would probably put Buenos Aires’s and Santiago’s offerings ahead of Havana’s but I did get to see locals offering flowers to La Milagrosa. When Senora Amelia Goyri died giving birth in 1901, her heartbroken husband visited her
VedadoVedadoVedado

Havana's 'newer' neighbourhood has architecture that evokes 50s and 60s American suburbia.
grave several times a day, knocking on one of the four rings on the burial vault and walking away backwards so he could see her for as long as possible. When her remains were exhumed for reasons unknown, Amelia’s body was found uncorrupted and her baby, buried at her feet, was found in her arms. Now known as “The Miraculous One”, thousands of people now come to leave flowers for her every year in the hope she might bring them their very own miracle – knocking the burial vault with an iron ring and walking backwards away from the grave.
I then walked through the stuck-in-the-50s neighbourhood of Vedado, with all of its mansions, pastel buildings, art deco skyscrapers and Bauhaus apartment blocks. Being a fan of both art deco and Bauhaus, this place was a dream to explore although its leafy, suburban feel may not get everyone too excited.
I decided to walk back to the hostel along the Malecon, which was treacherous with water splashing onto it over the wall, and with the old parts of the footpath slippery from the water, seaweed and even fish, that had come over the wall. There were also camouflaged bits of
Callejon de HamelCallejon de HamelCallejon de Hamel

This artistically and colourfully decorated alley serves as a live venue for a weekly Afro-Cuban show.
rock sticking up from the footpath, ready for you to stub your toe into.

I’ve generally found Cubans to be curious and friendly. Whereas starting a conversation with me was almost certainly a ruse to get me to buy something in South and Central America, the Cubans I have talked to here seem genuinely interested in learning about me, where I am from, what I’m doing here and what I think of their country. Or so I thought.
There was one bloke who took me to Callejon de Hamel – an admittedly cool and colourful, open-air rumba venue. It seemed to be on my way home and I’d been given a sense of security regarding Cubans so thought I might as well follow him. After showing me the place and saying my goodbyes, he then asks me if I could buy him a beer. Inviting foreigners for drink so that you can drink for free eh? At just CUC$1.50 it wasn’t that much so I obliged but I still felt tricked into it, which left a bitter taste in the mouth. I might just decline the next tour offered to me…

On my last day, I began my
Vedado Architecture #1Vedado Architecture #1Vedado Architecture #1

Some colourful cubism and awesome art deco.
walk – I was averaging about 13km a day! – through Havana’s Barrio Chino, Havana’s Chinatown where actual Chinese people are conspicuous by their absence. They all left after the revolution and apart from one decorated alley of restaurants, it isn’t overly impressive.
I didn’t visit any museums while I was in Havana which sounds terrible over five days there, but it wasn’t for any want of trying. Every single museum I tried to visit was either closed because of a private function, close because it was Sunday, or if it was open, extortionately expensive. I might have come across as stingy in this blog entry but I can’t bring myself to pay ‘normal’ prices when I know things can be 25 times cheaper in the ‘other’ local economy. I was interested in learning more about this fascinating country so I was a little gutted about this, even if I did manage to save myself about CUC$20 in entrance fees as a result.

Despite the grumblings about prices and the dual currency, it really wasn’t until my fifth and last day in Havana that I finally began to feel a little frustrated at the way things are done here
Vedado Architecture #2Vedado Architecture #2Vedado Architecture #2

Vedado was always a slightly more affluent neighbourhood, as refected by this neoclassical gem located in a leafy residential area.
in Cuba. Things like; asking for a glass of juice that normally costs MN$2 (CUC$0.08) only for the barman to get a small packet of expensive juice, pour it into the glass, and then charge you CUC$1 for it; all the museums I wanted to see being closed; no shops open from which to buy water because its Sunday; having to pay CUC$3 for an hour of internet access.
As you might expect from state-run stores, mini-supermarkets have a pretty dire selection and there are more empty shelves than stocked ones. And don’t get me started on service. It’s so slow and bad that there are almost always queues, but the staff have no motivation whatsoever to try and reduce the queues or increase their speed – the inevitable result of a lack of free market competition.
Luckily I could still marvel at my surroundings – even after five days – and luckily the weather here in Havana is almost perfect. Hot but not too hot during the day, little humidity, and balmy but not sticky in the evenings. It is always t-shirt and shorts weather, but you’re not always sweating through said t-shirts and shorts.

On my last
Vedado Architecture #3Vedado Architecture #3Vedado Architecture #3

There is even a bit of Bauhaus thrown into the mix. I love this city!
night in Havana, I – perhaps against my better judgment – ended up going out with four Dutch guys from the hostel to find somewhere to party.
We tried Casa de la Musica, reputedly one of Havana’s best night spots and subsequently, was teeming with hookers outside of it.
The guy working there says that it is CUC$10 to get in and we debate as to whether it would be worth it on a Sunday night. We ask the guy if we can get it cheaper – he goes to his superior and it’s a no-go. Because it is state-run, there is no objective to make money and it is more important for rules to be followed – and the rule is, that everyone (maybe not the locals?) pays CUC$10 to get in. Even at CUC$7 to get in, that is CUC$35in hand rather than CUC$50 in the bush but there is no sense of business acumen here.
Then to our surprise, the guy then tells us it isn’t worth going in for CUC$10 each and takes us instead to another bar down the road. He then even joins us for a drink. Apparently he can because he has knocked
More Brilliant Havana ArchitectureMore Brilliant Havana ArchitectureMore Brilliant Havana Architecture

Including the neoclassical Hotel Inglaterra, Havana's oldest hotel.
off for the night. But the place he has taken us to isn’t really happening – just a bunch of locals sitting around listening to some awful Spanish karaoke.
We then try the old town but nothing was doing there either, so we called it a night. The fired chicken that I had on the way back home however, was delicious.

And on that rather flat note, I thought that it would be a good time to move on. Havana has been a smashing introduction to Cuba – let’s hope the good times continue!

Hasta luego,
Derek


Additional photos below
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New & OldNew & Old
New & Old

The restored La Manzana de Gomez sits behind a lived-in building that could do with a bit of restoration itself. The rich and poor in one shot just outside Habana Vieja.
Calle Belascoain / Padre VarelaCalle Belascoain / Padre Varela
Calle Belascoain / Padre Varela

This main thoroughfare through Centro Habana is, like much of Havana, a 50s throwback. Even to the detail of locals regularly using wired payphones.
StaircaseStaircase
Staircase

Inside a house in Centro Habana. Despite the worn interior, it is still a beautiful building. Perhaps the age makes it so.
Centro Habana By NightCentro Habana By Night
Centro Habana By Night

Havana at night is atmospheric and slightly eerie, but never really felt dangerous. The kids out at all hours probably had something to do with it.
El MorroEl Morro
El Morro

Gorgeous view of the sea from the old fort of El Morro.
Castillo de la Real FuerzaCastillo de la Real Fuerza
Castillo de la Real Fuerza

Built between 1558 and 1577, this fort just on the edge of Habana Vieja is one of the oldest in the Americas.
Iglesia y Monasterio de San Francisco de AsisIglesia y Monasterio de San Francisco de Asis
Iglesia y Monasterio de San Francisco de Asis

Which finally enough, isn't actually a church anymore but hosts a museum and classical concerts.
Paseo de MartiPaseo de Marti
Paseo de Marti

This La Rambla-like boulevard was built to be as splendid as any boulevard in Europe.
Edificio BacardiEdificio Bacardi
Edificio Bacardi

"A triumph of art-deco," describes the Lonely Planet and it's hard to disagree.
Inside The Edificio BacardiInside The Edificio Bacardi
Inside The Edificio Bacardi

It doesn't get more art-deco than this.
Che Guevara MuralChe Guevara Mural
Che Guevara Mural

On the side of the Ministerio del Interior building on Plaza de la Revolucion.
Memorial a Jose MartiMemorial a Jose Marti
Memorial a Jose Marti

This 138.5m high tower is the tallest in Havana.
The Havana ClubThe Havana Club
The Havana Club

Kris, Joe, Walter, Andy and Xenia line the back; I drive the crew at the front, cigar and beer in hand. It does not get more Havana than this. I have also never felt like more of a boss than this.


10th June 2016

Oh Cuba!
Really glad you worked out that the gold in Habana is to be found walking local neighbourhoods and eating where the locals eat. I was there last year (must get the blogs done!) and will be back in November. I do think though that you missed out big time by not also walking La Malecon.

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