Mostar is full of winding cobblestone alleys with Turkish-style bazaars and small coffee houses where people sit drinking from tiny cups. Minarets compete for space with church spires, and, at certain times of the day, the Muslim call to prayer battles with the ringing of bells across the river. But the centrepiece of Mostar's old town is definitely its famous bridge. The Legend According to legend, an Ottoman called Mimar designed the bridge. When Suleiman the Magnificent had commissioned him to build it, Mimar had trembled with fear. He knew the bridge had to span thirty metres, something unimaginable in those days. But that wasn't the source of his angst; it was more to do with the sultan. As well as being magnificent, Suleiman was cruel, notorious for his love of gruesome executions. Mimar knew he
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