Day 9: Off to Bosnia!


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Europe » Bosnia & Herzegovina » South » Mostar
July 9th 2013
Published: July 9th 2013
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Set off for the bus station at a perky 7am... so happy to be going down stairs without knowing I have to walk up 10 flights at the end of the night. (Oh Dubrovnik, you're on par with San Francisco...)

The bounce in my step quickly disappeared as the strap on my bag snapped clear in half haha. I was like DEAR GOD NO. At least it was the one that I can hug (my duffle), so I did that the rest of the day. I think I'll have to buy a small suitcase in Sarajevo. Oh well.

Bus ride to Mostar was beautiful - first hour or so was along the coast - you can never go wrong with that! Seeing all the small coastal villages and the islands down below. Wonderful. The drive through Bosnia was lovely as well - it's very green, lots of mountains in the distance, and great big fields.

Passport control was... interesting? We somehow went through it three times, and an additional ticket check. It was very confusing, but at least we didn't have to get off the bus and they didn't ask questions or anything. Sure glad I wasn't in a car though - the last checkpoint had a ridiculous line on both sides of the border.

Once arrived in Mostar, I set off to find the hostel that has no location haha. (The hostelworld and google maps locations are both wrong - the street is like 10min walk away from where they both place the hostel.) Thankfully I really did my research because the hostel is only about 3-4min from the bus station. Didn't have far to go at all!

I found it without a problem, but then had to find my way in..? Haha. There is no sign, no nothing. And no obvious front door so I basically walked around back where I was greeted by a large German Shepherd (behind a fence). He eyed me up, but didn't really move. As I continued around the building I didn't notice the other "cage" - I went to double back and had the heart attack moment of my life when a Rottweiler popped his head under the other cage and started full out snarling and barking at me. And not an "OH INTRUDER" bark. An "I'M GOING TO RIP YOUR HEAD OFF AND EAT YOUR BRAINS" bark.

Yeah. I love dogs... but... that was unpleasant. There was only a small fence holding him back... I... did not enjoy that at all.

Thankfully the owner then realized I was there and came out to bring me to my room. I'm like, uhm, nice guard dogs? He just laughed. Wow. Safety first, kids.

After I dropped my stuff off, I tiptoed past the beast to head off to explore. I was near another bridge (not the famous one), so decided to start there. Really a gorgeous place, Mostar is. The water is a vibrant blue-green, much like the water from back in Slovenia.

While roaming, I came across a mall - oh - pleasant surprise!

1 - Malls usually have grocery stores here. Cheap food and break large bills!

2 - Malls also usually have McDs. Also great for breaking change.

3 - And most importantly. Airconditioning. Is. A. Beautiful. Thing. (Although to be fair, after 37 degree weather in Dubrovnik, a mere 34-35 in Mostar was nothing.)

Food in tow and having actual usable bills, I set off to Old Town. The walk was a little easier said than done... although the streets are beautiful, they are the bumpiest cobblestone-y-rocky things I have ever walked on.

I loved the market streets - it's so quaint. Usually you have everyone trying to sell you things or pull you into their stall or what have you, but no here everyone is friendly and polite and a good many of the people are working on their crafts in the store - it was fascinating to see them actually making their product.

The bridge was beautiful, as I expected it to be. The simple design of it is lovely - very high, steep sides - almost built in steps as you cross. The view down the gorge is lovely as well of course - that stunning water passing by underneath.

I went to the museum and the photo exhibition afterwards - I'll be honest, I didn't know much of the history from the war, but now having been here I definitely want to read more about it. Yes, I know, should have been done before... but so be it.

I have to say there is something stunningly beautiful, yet sobering about being in a city that still has its battle scars so visible. Yes, they rebuilt the bridge, but a lot of buildings on the main streets are ruins, with safety rails all around them and big signs that read "Attention! Dangerous ruin." Many of the roofs are still in shambles. The sides of buildings still have dents/holes from the war... it makes me wonder - on one hand how difficult it must be to have that constant visual reminder, but on the other hand, it's not like they would forget either... I just find it interesting.

Anyway. After the Old Town I decided to roam around the other side of the bridges - in a more neighbourhood-like area. It's funny, walking along the small alleys and streets, zig zagging around, I felt safer there than just about any city I've travelled to. It was just fun to explore. And everyone is so friendly - all the hellos in the world!

I went back to Old Town to grab some supper - had a lovely "cevapcici" dish (little minced meat sausages/kebabs, flat bread and minced onions) that was simply delish and a nice beer to top it off, of course. The restaurant was near(ish) the bridge, so I basically got to sit back, take in the scenery and read a bit after I finished my food. Ah, tis the life.

Oh! And I watched someone dive off the bridge. That's a thing here. It's quite impressive really, I could never do it.

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10th July 2013

HP theme
I'm sensing a Harry Potter theme to your trip. This time you encountered the three-headed beast (or whatever that dog thing was in the early HP series). Woof!

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