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Published: March 27th 2018
We were greeted by blue skies and sunshine this morning, and the temperature would reach 50 degrees later in the afternoon. Of course, Dee's first order of business this morning was to make her inaugural grocery run at the store across the street, which is really convenient; no lugging of groceries for blocks, as has been the case throughout much of this trip!
Late in the morning we began exploring this quaint little town, which has the look and feel of a medieval village everywhere you turn. Bruges (or Brugge in Dutch) is the capital and largest city of the province of West Flanders, the Flemish region of Belgium, in the northwest of the country.
The historic city center, where we will be walking today, is a prominent World Heritage Site of UNESCO. During its "Golden Age", between the 12th-and-15th-centuries, Bruges became an economic powerhouse, with most of its wealth derived through foreign commerce. Today, it is a tourist mecca, with a resident population of about 118,000.
We began our explorations by heading toward the Markt ("Market Square"), located in the heart of the city. We walked past dozens of buildings with the characteristic facades of a Dutch
(or Flemish) gable, the generally triangular section of wall at the end of a pitched roof, whose sides have a shape made up of one or more curves, often with an ornamental decoration at the top.
The so-called crow-stepped gable (or stepped gable) is a stair-step type of design at the top of the triangular gable-end of a building. This type of architectural style became common throughout Northern Europe beginning in the 13th-century, and later throughout Central Europe.
In addition to the many restaurants and specialty stores that line each of the streets, mostly of the cobblestone variety, the sheer number of Belgian chocolate shops is mind boggling. You can hardly walk 50 feet without being enticed by the window display of one chocolatier or another! We need to buy some chocolates for a friend while we're in Bruges, and with so many tempting choices, it will be a difficult buying decision!
Another feature of Bruges that cannot be avoided is the ubiquitous bicycle, driven by a maniacal breed, both young and old, who zig-zag among pedestrians at breakneck speed, with little regard for any "rules of the road". We were warned about bicycle riders by our
apartment owner when we arrived, and this menace quickly became apparent as the day wore on.
When we arrived at the Markt, the large public square surrounded by restaurants, cafes and historic buildings, it was a beehive of activity, with pedestrians, horse-drawn carriages and bicyclists weaving their way around this open space of about 2.5 acres.
The square is dominated by the 290-feet-tall Belfort (or bell tower), with its octagonal lantern on top. Built in 1300, it combines the elements of a medieval fortress with flamboyant spires, as well as Roman and Gothic arches. For a steep fee, the tower can be climbed by those so inclined, via 366 steps (no thanks).
Other prominent landmarks on the square include the Provincial Court, a Neogothical building that was the former meeting place for the provincial government of West Flanders; and a statue of Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck, who are often portrayed as patriotic heroes in Belgium because of their passion for Flemish identity.
After leaving the Markt, we meandered our way toward the Dijver canal, one of the waterways that surround and pass through Bruges, giving it the nickname "Venice of the North". Canal boats
offer tourists short cruises, and we'll no doubt give it a try during our stay. Today, however, we decided to have lunch, and then head for the Burg, an opulent square that at one time constituted the center of the city's political and religious life.
We ate lunch at Arthies, on Wollestraat, an interesting restaurant that turned out to be owned and operated by a family who came to Bruges from Nepal (of all places).
When we walked in, and then sat down, we felt like we had entered an Andy Warhol exhibition, with all manner of colorful, eclectic decor adorning the walls. The friendly waiter, one of the owner's sons, helped us make selections from the extensive menu of traditional Belgian specialties.
Dee chose tomato soup, cheese croquets and a salad, while I wanted to try the chicken soup, and then
Vlaamse stoverij (in English, Flemish stew), which is a traditional Flemish sweet-sour beef and onion stew made with beer, and seasoned with thyme, bay leaves and mustard. Apparently, the type of beer used is important, and traditionally an
Oud bruin (Old Brown beer) is the beer of choice for this dish.
The soups, seasoned
with herbs and spices such as cloves, cinnamon and coriander, were delicious; and the beef stew (served with Belgian fries and a salad) was to die for! We shared a
Dame Blanche, vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce, for dessert. Everything was excellent, and we were able to meet and thank the chef/owner on our way out.
Shortly after lunch we reached the Burg Square, which is anchored by the Gothic arches and spires of the white sandstone
Stadhuis (City Hall). In the corner of the square is the Basilica of the Holy Blood, built around 1150, to house the drops of Christ's blood purportedly brought back from Jerusalem by a Christian crusader.
The chapel occupies two levels, with the upper one having a very ornate altar (where the vial of blood is stored and exhibited on certain occasions), while the lower chapel displays several statues and relics with religious themes. Every year, during the month of May, the relic containing the blood is carried through the streets of Bruges during the Procession of the Holy Blood.
After leaving the Burg Square, we wound our way through some side streets and arcades, passing yet more chocolate and
waffle shops! Dee found a tiny shop selling lace and linen products, where she bought a tablecloth and some other souvenirs. We eventually made it back to the Markt, which was still bustling in the late afternoon; then to our apartment, with a quick stop at Oyya for a waffle and milkshake to devour later in the evening. :-)
Dee's comments: What a beautiful day in Bruges! The weather could not have been any better. On our walk to the Markt square we counted 22 eateries! The square was so full of life! Later, we stopped for lunch, where a bright red chicken welcomes you at the entrance.
The restaurant was decorated like a modern art museum (as Mitch says, an Andy Warhol ambience). The tomato soup was the best I've ever eaten, my cheese croquettes were delicious, and the dessert was a masterpiece! They put a "twist" on traditional Flemish cooking by using cloves and cinnamon--I loved it! We also enjoyed meeting the family members who own and operate this cute restaurant.
You "chocoholics" out there would go crazy with all the chocolates on display---but OMG, how do you choose? Tried our first Belgian waffle from
Oyya! I made several blunders at the grocery store today--I bought hard boiled eggs (instead of regular eggs); and buttermilk (instead of regular milk).
I've noticed that things are pretty pricey here, with a jar of instant coffee costing more than $10; cokes not chilled in the store are $1.00, chilled $2; on the street sodas are $3.
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Jacque Lecoq
non-member comment
Another Great Day
Looks like you two really enjoyed your day and food. Do not know what your going to do when you come back to the states for food.