Learning how to deal with the Belarussian train system 101

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After arriving from a day trip to Mir, we headed to the train station to check out the schedules, we are planning on doing day trips to a few cities just to explore. We were thinking Vitebsk and Brest and possibly Gomel as well. Looking at the huge board at the lobby, Mindas, who is fluent in Russian is a little bit confused so we decided, well he decided to ask the lady at the information counter, apparently she was rude and not happy to be helping him, it did not help that he came back maybe 4 times each time with a different time and schedule plans, we just could not make up our minds. Final planning means we have to be travelling 2 whole days going from East to West and transitting in Minsk but that is the best we can do. I noticed that a number of government employees like the rail system does not have a very good people skills, they seem to hate to be helping you and do their jobs, but then it could just be us thinking that.

Ok final plans, Minsk-Vitebsk, and back, Minsk-Brest and back. All sorted out we queue up for the tickets, the lady at the counter refuse to sell us a ticket from Minsk to Brest claiming we are cutting it too close, there was only maybe 10 mins to connect in Minsk coming from Vitebsk, we later found out it's the same train Vitebsk to Brest with a stop in Minsk simply by looking at the train number, why they can'y figure that out is beyond us!

So the first leg Minsk to Vitebsk, train leaves at 6:20 am so we have to get up early, around 5:15am we are out the door, metro opens at 5:30am, the metro here is not well marked they have a number of exits and from a travellers perspective it would have been nice if they mark say exit 1 to 4 and name of streets or landmark of the exit points, last time we ended up at the Red Church a 5 t0 10 minute walk,and have to run to get back to the train station. So this time we tried to use markers, landmarks, so we plotted the fastest way we can get to the station from the metro, the only thing we did not do is drop bread crumbs to guide us. We found our platform and carriage/car with ease. We fell asleep quickly, I woke up to a persistent tap on my foot, the train concierge or whatever he is, woke me up to indicate I should take my shoes off so as not to soil the seats,he gave me a pissed off look, ok then I sleep sitting. I noticed the snow in this area is thicker, the countryside is blinding white with the sun way up in the cloudless sky. We pulled into the Vitebsk train station, it is very cold once again, but the sun is shining so can't complain.

Mindas contacted a CouchSurfer awhile back, his name is Alex and is keen to meet us, he gave us instructions about a meeting place, on a street just across the station. We waited only a few minutes and Alex came with a big smile almost shoulder length hair and a very cheerful attitude, he invited us to have breakfast at his apartment which is only couple minutes away, he just came back from feeding his 2 horses up on a hill near a TV/radio station tower, we met his mom at their place she speaks very good English and very engaging, she was an English teacher, now retired, I see why Alex's English is flawless. We feasted on small pancakes made by Alex's mom topped with fruit spread/jelly, awesome!Alex is an avid horse lover he purchased 2 horses and he promised that we will visit them later on in the day. Now time to roam the city.

The main streets are mostly cleared of snow already, its very cold, Alex said spring is late this year, normally it should have arrived by now, the sun is shining I have to wear my sunnies as it is too bright for me. We ended up on an old massive bridge, Alex explains most of the buildings and structures were built after WW II, by German POWs, they did a good job I say. We went under the bridge and walked down towards the frozen Divina river, from a distance you can see a mighty Catedral I think this is the Uspensky Catedral. We saw a guy ice fishing near the other side. The snow is thick and is a struggle to get down the river bank but it's a gorgeous scenery. Alex started to cross the frozen river, are we to follow you? I asked? Yes come on he invites, Mindas started to walk I stayed behind a bit waiting to see if the ice will break on them, gingerly stepping on the frozen lake I surmised it's so cold and they just had a huge amount of snow a week ago surely this thing will hold up, I have never walked on a frozen body of water before hence the hesitation. It's a long way to the other side and the snow is deep, but nearing the banks of the river across, I noticed that water started seeping through on Alex footprints as he brings his foot up for the next step, I trudged faster! The ice fisherman seems oblivious of us and he kept on fishing, we saw he caught a tiny fish, maybe even the fish thinks it's too cold to come out.

Sucessfully making it to the other side we now struggle to climb a hill thick with snow to get to the Catedral, they were making some final adjustments it seems like, a crane hoisting a statue, Alex informed me that it was recently renovated, and only a few years ago it was a factory, now they decided to renovate it and return it to it's old glory. We went inside, the church is very simple but nice, it's Eastern Orthodox, with beautiful icon paintings, the walls are being painted, the chandelier being cleaned. We walked uphill from the church, and there is a small zoo in the process of being transplanted to the suburbs, and at the end of the street to the right is the KGB headquarters, there is a square and on the other end is the Chagall museum, only it was closed, a few disappointed locals walking away from the entrance, then a music school next door, we can hear the students playing instruments. We found ourselves later on a pedestrian walkway, we followed it downhill, until we get to a small restaurant owned by Alex's buddy, he invited us in and we ordered a hefty lunch, we chose a potato pancake stuffed with meat, a Belarussian specialty, whose name escaped me, and a good unfiltered local dark beer and some mayo based salad, everything was good but for some reason Alex did not join us, we reckon he may be having lunch with his friend. Alex came back and asked why we did not finish the salad, we were stuffed, so he took my fork and finished it for us, good man.

When it came time to paying, his friend refuses to take our money, we are not having it, but then he says ok, if you want to pay again, it's ok with a smile, we then realized Alex must have sorted it out. Thanking him profusely we walked out and thanked Alex for his generosity, I didn't pay it! he exclaims, well we got a freebie then! I felt bad, his friend is trying to eke out a living then comes 2 foreigners getting free meal, the owner generously giving it for free.Walk some more we did and found the only hostel in town so I have to take a foto of it, then we found the stunning amphitheatre that hosts the annual "Slaviansky Bazaar"a huge festival of music from across the Slavic-speaking world held in the summer. But at the moment the grounds is used as an ice skating rink. Heading back towards the river we encountered 2 churches of different styles, one is Eastern Orthodox domed behemoth made of concrete, the other of old wooden style I think it's called Nevsky Church. From then on Alex says now you have seen the beautiful part of town, we now go to the ugly part of town, he lead us through apartment blocks winding through short cuts here and there until we found a small grocery store, he bought me kvas, a local drink and some dry bread for the horses, then sat in a park and waited for the horses to be brought down.

A young man came up to us with a plastic bottle of 1L beer and invited us to drink with him, we refused but he is not taking no for an answer, Alex said something in Belarussian and he meekly went away, not after dropping his beer on a puddle of slush/snow, maybe he is already drunk. The horses came, guided by 2 young teenage girls who assists Alex from time to time to feed and walk the horse, in return they get to ride the horses. We entered a fenced football field. Alex made me drop all my stuff and motioned me to climb up the horse, I did and he taught me the proper way of riding, I was a bit scared, this is not a tamed hiking horse like in Kyrgyzstan but realized quickly the principle is the same, you have to be confident and pull on the reins like you mean it if it's acting up, we went in circles around the snowy grounds, the other horse was in front being walked by the girl assistant, suddenly it started kicking, the girl started screaming for Alex in a panic state, the horse nearly kicked my horse, but Alex was calm, even taking my fotos! My tummy was churning I was in a slight panic, Alex hollered at me shoulders back, squeeze your thighs, pull on the reins!

The other horse Alex just acquired days before and still a bit testy, a sigh of relief for me after a few rounds on the grounds with no provocation, then it was Mindas' turn. As I unmount the horse I can feel my stomach heaving, oh boy, Alex where is the bathroom? There is no bathroom here dude go behind some mounds of snow he smiles. It's not easily relieved standing up, I walked the grounds of the park to find some private area, but none, the park is surrounded by houses! A blessing came when I saw from a distance a concrete block next to some benches, it looks like a public restroom, and it was, I rushed to get there thinking of happy things, until I get there, thank goodness it was winter, the cold air stiffens the smell and the sight, well I leave it to your imagination. Business done I went back to meet them, we bid goodbye to the horses and went back to the train station which was crowded, we need to change our train tickets so we will have less waiting time in Minsk as we conncet to the train for Brest. As I said before our train from Vitebsk goes all the way to Brest with a brief stop in Minsk but somehow the smart lady at the ticket counter in Minsk refuse to get us on that same train! Mindas queued up with Alex, while I sat down, eyeing the WC sign, good to know where it is in case it acts up again...

Alex left us here as he has some business to attend to, it's now 7pm, 4 1/2 hours to kill, we looked for a cafe on the main street, none! So went back to the station and got some food at the cafeteria, a piece of chicken for each and we are happy for the moment, sat at the most uncomfortable waiting chairs ever! I think it was designed to keep people from sleeping in the station. Mindas needs to be in touch with our CSurfer guide in Brest, but phone battery is low so we looked desperately for powerpoints, there are a few in the station but none working! We finally found one, at the restroom, since we pay to get in anyway why not hang out there? Mindas asked permission from the lady in the booth if we can stay a bit longer in the toilet to charge the phone, she quipped, you can stay for as long as you want dear, so we did, people giving us the look as they come to the sink to wash their hands, we are hugging the hand dryer is why, it's crap anyway, after all it's made in Lithuania!(Mindas' joke and he's Lithuanian). Hallelujah the time to get on the train comes, car#1 here we come..

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Photos

Vitebsk
walking on frozen Divina river

Vitebsk
ice fishing

Vitebsk
ice fisherman

Vitebsk
Mindas and Alex

Vitebsk
holy water dispenser