European River Cruise - Vienna, Friday 2010 August 27


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August 27th 2010
Published: January 10th 2014
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State Opera HouseState Opera HouseState Opera House

Who wouldn't go to the opera in this magnificent building!
Upon our arrival in Vienna, our dock was an old goods freighter – excellent recycling. The skyline of Vienna didn’t resonate with any of my ideas. There is a communications tower (Danube Tower) and a cluster of smallish high-rises.

Once we drove into the old, central part of town, the great baroque palaces take over the city’s personality. We drove around the ring-road (“Ringstrasse”), seeing all the establishments fashionable at the time of the Hapsburg Empire. Then, we walked for a short time, the history drowning us. The highlight was our arrival at the Spanish Riding School just when some grooms were leading a few Lipanzzer horses through the courtyard. Got one good photo!

Overwhelmed by too short a time with too many historic sites, when we stopped for free time, we (and many fellow travelers) opted for coffee and cake at the nearby Mozart Café. (Perhaps a chain, because I think I have seen others.) Although warned by our Cruise director, Yvonne, that Viennese waiters were rude, ours was polite and friendly. None of us were hungry, but I insisted on ordering a piece of cake to share, just to taste. Good decision. The plum cake was tender, moist, flavourful and covered
RingstrasseRingstrasseRingstrasse

A glimpse of the ring road that bounds the imperial city centre.
in lightly cooked prune plums.

Back on the bus, we took the “Ringstrasse” back to the boat. The guide did a good job of pointing out different things along the way. However, I was too slow with the cameras to catch the beautiful art deco subway stations.

After lunch and a rest, Ian, Deirdre and I walked across the dock and a major road to the nearby large church. When we opened the large metal handle in the big wooden door, we stepped into a reverential silence punctuated by footsteps and a few whispering voices. I was interested to know if this were completely reconstructed since the war, because as Ian noted, everything fit together: the simplicity of the walls painted a dark cream right up to the barrel vaulted ceiling; the wood structural beams outlining the church’s design; the few almost stark statues; and the many painted panels hung all around the walls depicting the stories of Jesus’ life. (After-note: named Jubilee Church)

We remembered our guide’s instructions to go up and to the left to find the Sisi Chapel. What a contrast! The whole was covered in gold and jeweled mosaics! The lights shone to make
Sisi ChapelSisi ChapelSisi Chapel

The guilded Chapel sings of love for Empress Elizabeth.
the mosaic angels shimmer – all leading the eye to a great mosaic of Empress Elizabeth, nicknamed Sisi. A few people were seated and seemed to be worshipping so we were very quiet and moved about only at the back. But perhaps they were early for a celebration, because I went back about ten minutes later (my camera had been set wrong) and more people were gathering in their nice clothes, looking rather festive.

We returned to our ship in the same light rain as when we started.

Dinner was early, so we would be ready for the buses to a special Viennese concert. The sky had cleared off, so the soft evening sun lit the Ringstrasse buildings. At the Liechtenstein Museum the entire façade was facing the sunset, and some people later told us there was a complete rainbow.

Inside, the décor was white plaster baroque, highlighting some spectacular art and focusing the attention up to the ceiling frescoes. Most spectacular, though, was a full baroque carriage – golden and painted. Made me think of the many novels in which people drove up in their carriages for balls. As we looked around and chatted, we were served champagne
Fairy tale carriageFairy tale carriageFairy tale carriage

This is how the princess arrived at Liechtenstein Palace.
– a great way to feel the special character of the evening.

Which only got better! At 8:00 they opened the way to the stairs to the second floor, and we were ushered into a beautiful, red and gilt decorated room set up for a small orchestral group (about ten musicians). To our real surprise, we were the only ones to be members of the audience.

The music was delightful and professional – the acoustics were excellent because of the high rounded ceiling. The master of ceremonies was costumed as a sort of Pan character – he was both refined and humorous at the same time. Two dancers from the ballet danced three pieces, including the Blue Danube waltz – a ten minute piece. Two opera singers sang two songs. The music was by Strauss, Beethoven and two brothers of Strauss, local geniuses. By the end I was thrilled to the core by the beauty – and I didn’t sleep well due to being over-stimulated! Fine trade-off!


Additional photos below
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Former Imperial Court TheaterFormer Imperial Court Theater
Former Imperial Court Theater

A place to see and been seen, in its day.
Der GrabenDer Graben
Der Graben

Beautiful buildings on a pedestrian street
Spanish Riding SchoolSpanish Riding School
Spanish Riding School

Courtyard of the home of the famous Lipanzzer horses
LipanzzerLipanzzer
Lipanzzer

These marvellous horses are trained in "Airs Above the Ground", stylized manoeuvres once used by cavalry in war.
St Stephen's CathedralSt Stephen's Cathedral
St Stephen's Cathedral

Renovations covered by canvas hoarding replicating the architecture, giving us a good impression of the whole building
Cathedral altarCathedral altar
Cathedral altar

Altars of great reverence were built throughout the cathedral.
TriptychTriptych
Triptych

An artifact showing the devotion of the artist and the sponsor.
Cathedral PillarCathedral Pillar
Cathedral Pillar

Focussing attention on devotions
Art Deco buildingArt Deco building
Art Deco building

A glimpse of intricate design and decoration
GoetheGoethe
Goethe

The prolific German writer honoured in a park on the Ringstrasse.
Modern ArchitectureModern Architecture
Modern Architecture

Beautiful building and sculpture, beyond the imperial age
Jubilee ChurchJubilee Church
Jubilee Church

Scorned by professionals, we loved the romantic church.
Nave, Jubilee ChurchNave, Jubilee Church
Nave, Jubilee Church

The simplicity of the church interior stilled the mind and spirit.
Liechtenstein PalaceLiechtenstein Palace
Liechtenstein Palace

In the soft glow of sunset, the Palace appeared as in a fairy tale.


18th January 2014
Sisi Chapel

Stunning
Beautiful.
20th January 2014

Church interiors
Thanks for this latest blog, Judith. I'm struck by the variety of styles of architecture the interior of St. Stephan's Cathedral and the Jubilee Church. Thanks for this, Peter

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