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Published: June 12th 2018
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We wake up cruising down the Danube. We are heading northwest upstream, against the current. It's a beautiful day, no clouds, slight haze in the air. It promises to be a scorcher. The whole of Central Europe has been experiencing a heat wave, with day after day in the high 20s, quite unusual for this time of year.
Around mid-morning, we pass slowly by Bratislava, capital of Slovakia, on the east bank. The outskirts of the city are somewhat shabby, but the town centre itself looks attractive. There is a beautiful, obviously reconstructed citadel at the highest point. Bratislava is definitely a city that we may want to visit someday.
We continue along the Danube. It is very pleasant to watch the scenery and the small picturesque towns go by. They are all variations on a template: a castle or fortress perched on the highest point, perhaps preserved, perhaps in ruins; a central church with a tall spire; other buildings in white or pastel shade; and the white or occasionally yellow individual homes with red roofs. The experience is all the more pleasant because, no matter where you settle yourself down, there is a server at your side in
minutes offering libations.
Eventually we reach Devin Rock, where the Morava River enters the Danube. Not that long ago, this spot was regarded as marking the boundary between Western Europe and the Iron Curtain. Intriguing ruins of a 13th-century castle decorate the precipitous summit of the rock. A small individual castle tower sits on top of a rock chimney, with no obvious way to enter. This is known as the Maiden Tower and has romantic legends of captured princesses associated with it.
We have already traversed a few locks, always ascending as we proceed upriver. We will pass through 68 locks before we reach our final destination. Most allow only one ship our size at a time, but at least one was big enough to accommodate three.
We arrive in Vienna, Austria around 7 pm. On the itinerary tonight is a classical concert at the Palais Lichtenstein. We are bused to the venue, where we receive champagne on entry. We mill around the ground floor and admire the rich, extravagant decoration of the reception hall. In the centre is a carriage used by the Hapsburgs, resplendent in gold trim. We then climb the expansive marble staircase to
Self-portrait and imperial carriage
Palais Lichtenstein, Vienna, Austria an exquisite high-ceilinged hall with numerous wall and ceiling frescos for the performance. Our host introduces the musicians: string quartet plus double bass, flute, clarinet, French horn, trumpet plus percussion. The musical focus is unsurprisingly on Mozart and Strauss. A soprano and baritone sing some arias. The musicianship is superb. I am particularly impressed with how the musicians keep the music crisp and tight in the extremely reverberant hall. The finale is a demonstration of the Viennese waltz by a professional couple to the tune of—what else—the Blue Danube. Lovely evening.
Back at boat, we are offered a night cap of goulash soup before bed.
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