International AIDS Conference and Vienna

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July 18th through the 24th

The International AIDS Conference was just the overload I expected. On Sunday we headed for the Messe Prater (Vienna Convention Center) to pick up my conference registration and head for a session on the US National AIDS Strategy. I was partially motivated by the strategy, but also knew that I would find Margarita there, which I did. She was swamped with multiple governmental roles but fit in a few dinner opportunities. Clinton’s speech was subtly brilliant, as always, and his caution on making false choices in times of economic recession was spot on. The kids were thrilled that on the side of the Messe Prater was Vienna’s top theme park with some amazing rides that couldn’t be found in the states-Quique assured me that he has done his research on the internet and that these rides were particularly spectacular. Thanks to the park they actually wanted to go with me to the conference. Their metro was free during holidays and mine was paid for with the conference fees so Enrique bought a 14 Euro week pass and we became Vienna metro experts.
After a week of microbicide, treatment and prevention workshops and meetings with many people I needed to catch up with, standing in front of our poster presentations, and touring the global village and exhibits, I was ready on Friday for the conference to end. The closing ceremony was worth attending and Dr. Whitescarver received a well deserved award. We took a lot photos with the Latino prevention clan and headed out for a night with Margarita at the Vienna Film Festival at Ratthaus. The kids had their own HIV 101 as I was asked several questions like “Was he married before he got AIDS?” Followed by “Then how do guys have sex?” My newfound friend Marcel, the first case of HIV diagnosed in Venezuela, gave the kids great chocolates, which prompted Itzel to ask, “Can he be my tio too?” He also gave the kids condom t-shirts, which have made great pajamas. The kids also loved the “free hugs” folks out in front of the conference center, who would give you both a hug and a t-shirt as you entered. Quique wanted to cross out the free on the front and replace it with 2 Euros and stand in front of the Messe Prater on the second day but of course we denied him this entrepreneurial endeavor.
I took Itzel to an Annie Lennox concert she gave in support of her SONG Foundation and the conference with Mel and Francisco. After a few songs I put Itzel up on my shoulders so that she could see Annie over the crowd. She showed a heart wrenching video about an HIV positive boy named Kanye who hadn’t received the meds he needed and acquired tuberculosis due to his weakened immune system. The TB gradually attacked his brain leaving him trembling in a hut with his grandmother and the few friends who would come to touch his hands, to stimulate his only remaining sense. His aunt would carry him a mile to a remote clinic to get whatever minimal care they could provide-which was basically nothing. Kanye died in November leaving his grandmother without a family. I tried my best to hold back tears but as Itzel’s began to fall onto my cheeks from above and she began to sob I was hard spent not to join in, along with everyone else in the crowd around me. Still only 50% of those in Africa receive the meds they need. The next day Itzel began to tell Enrique play by play each scene in the video-my 8 year old was now wise beyond her years. Having lost our good friend Dennis de Leon earlier this year left our group with heavy hearts.
Back to Vienna-During our stay we were able to fit in Shonbrunn, the SiSi, the Royal Treasury and Royal Castle, and the Venus of Willendorf before we said goodbye to Vienna. When we were finally Royal Roman Emperor-ed out, and had seen enough gold, silver and jewels to feed Africa we drove out of Vienna on our way to Salzburg to find that our GPS would not charge because the car had definite electrical issues. Everything was closed so we hoped for the best and headed on our way through an incredible rain storm. Miraculously we found our way to our little, but immaculate apartment owned by Dr. Ruth Dick. Exhausted, we put everyone to sleep as quickly as we could but not before we discovered the most darling hedgehog family living right in front of our building! The kids now have added hedgehogs to their Christmas lists and are asking where you can buy them, etc...

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