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April 29th 2008
Published: April 29th 2008
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Street Entertainment
Monday, 14th April
Spent day mooching around Sitges.Much quieter on sea front today so we enjoyed a peaceful time walking around and eventually managed to find an internet room to download blog. Had been trying to do this for days without success. Shops here are very upmarket and interesting - all different in style and design.

Friends, Elizabeth and Peter arrived later in the day after long drive up from Santa Pola. Had cooked them a meal so we enjoyed a happy time together. In the evening we watched an old Dads Army until we realised that the old German van next door and its occupants (not dishy ones!) were glaring at us and TV screen. We soon battened down hatches and shut ourselves in.

Tuesday, 15th April
Got the 9.30 bus today back into Barcelona with Elizabeth and Peter. On arrival into centre of Barcelona stopped for coffees and pastries in a lovely restaurant surprisingly for which we were only charged 8€. Again enjoyed a wander down the most well known street Las Ramblas which every day offered different entertainment. Today we were fascinated by a couple dancing the tango, a moon-walking Michael Jackson, two gold gentlemen on
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Chris Colombus
bikes, an eery looking elf, President Lincoln and a host of people in the most amazing costumes. How long it takes them to prepare their costume and make up I will never know. We moved on past Christopher Columbus, who was actually Italian by birth and also lived in Portugal at some stage. However it was King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Spain (parents of Katherine of Aragon)who financed his expeditions. I had seen his tomb in Seville but this monument to him was built in 1888. He stands ready to sail off again with a chart in one hand and pointing out to sea with the other. Beyond the statue was our pick up point for the aerial cable car. Sadly when we climbed up to the lift there was a sign saying "out of order"!! Could not believe it. "Plan B" decided to get a taxi to the furthest cable car pick up, the other side of the marina. However, Spanish taxi drivers are something else. Tried three to no avail so made decision to walk the distance. Quite a pretty walk around the marina and towards the beach in Barcelona although we were starting to get tired.
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Cable car eventually
Why were we then not surprised to find it closed for lunch between 2-3!!! How can one of the main tourist attractions close for lunch, but then this is Spain. Gritted our teeth and walked to the beach where we sat, as only the Brits do, and ate our sandwiches. Eventually got up to the cable car and enjoyed our aerial trip over Barcelona and dismounted at the Miramar gardens, overlooking the city. After taking in the wonderful view headed up towards the Olympic Stadium. whose facade was preserved from the original statium for the 1936 "alternative Olympics" cancelled at the outbreak of the civil war. The arena was refitted to hold 70,000 for the 1992 Olympics. Got into the stadium for a memento photograph and then went to see the swimming pools.

By this time we were at the top of hill of Montjuic an area filled with galleries, gardens, museums, making it a popular place. The main building is the 18C castle first built in 1640. The present fortress was built for a family but then captured by the French during the war of Independence. The National Palace, a very photographed landmark, houses an art gallery and
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National Palace
holds the worlds greatest display of Romanesque items. It would have been good to spend time here but we were getting tired and there was a lovely atmosphere outside the palace, so we sat on the steps, admiring the view of Barcelona and listening to a guitarist playing as long as people dropped coins in his hat.

Thinking we may be able to catch our bus from this area we started to make our way down. What a shock to see escalators all the way which we guessed would have been put in for the Olympics. At the bottom of the avenue there is a massive water fountain known as the magic fountain, which sadly is only switched on at night from Thursday to Sunday. We were all disappointed not to see it in operation. The site of the fountain used to be where the public gallows were. The avenue is flanked by two 47m brick campaniles modelled on the bell towers of St Marks in Venice and built as the entrance way to the 1929 International Exhibition. We arrived back at the bullring to catch the bus. This 1899 building was being renovated. The Catalans have never taken
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Lovely atmosphere outside National Palace
to bullfighting (good for them) so the building is now used as a venue for music.

Everywhere around Barcelona you are confronted with the buildings of Antoni Gaudi. His imprint on the city draws tourists from all over the world. His work is unmistakable with free flowing lines, rounded edges and dripping stonework. His work is certainly bizarre, supremely original and unconventional and I loved it. What a shame his life was cut short in 1926 after being run over by a tram. Casa Mila was his greatest contribution to Barcelona's civic architecture and his last work before he devoted himself entirely to the Sagrada Familia, Europes most unconventional church

Was grateful that Andy had been right in assumption our bus would stop here as we just arrived in time for 5.30 bus. Tired and weary after walking miles we flopped onto the bus and enjoyed a meal which Elizabeth had pre-cooked. Printed off some of the many photos we had taken during the day and this caused much hilarity. One photo showed Elizabeth and Peter with lights coming out of their heads, turning them into Telly Tubbies. Next morning the "dishy" Germans said judging from noise we
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Really loved Sitges but not far enough south for good winter weather
had enjoyed our evening. We apologised profusely and showed them the photo which they asked if they could take back to send off to a German paper who liked photos like these and sometimes paid 500€ if printed. We were quite happy for this to happen if we could share any proceeds!

Wednesday, 16th April
Nice sunny day again so decided to have a meal of the day in one of the many restaurants. Cycled along front and tied up bikes and then found an extremely upmarket restaurant where we enjoyed a wonderful lunch in haute cuisine style, linen table cloths and serviettes, massive wine glasses etc. Service was excellent and food amazing although we started to panic we had mis-read menu and would be charged more than the 10€. Need not have worried as bill came to 40 and for that I enjoyed one of the best meals of our trip. Feeling full and content we headed back to beach and spent an hour sitting in sun before cycling back to the camp site where no tea was needed!

Thursday, 17th April
Long term weather forecast had predicted rain today and tomorrow Always difficult getting ready to
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Beach at Sitges
move on when it is pouring. However, we are more than aware that Spain is desperate for rain. They have had 3 dry years and the drought is starting to show. The receptionist told me when I went to settle bill that if there is no rain soon, Barcelona will be without water by August? The pool on site was empty and the decision for many campsites is whether to buy in tankers of water as they are not allowed to fill from their own supply.

Set off to buy gas from Barcelona airport... please do not ask on this one. I really did try to tell Andy we could wait until we got to France to fill up (Spain only has few gas filling stations and we can only refill our cylinders by this method). Did we really need to drive into Barcelona with our van at peak time? Well, apparently we did. What a journey trying to negotiate motorway, millions of taxi's and lorries in addition to pouring rain. We did make it to said Meroil garage only to be able to fill one cylinder. Second one would not fill, so after paying them the 3€ we
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Venus parked in campsite in Andorra
set off to negotiate our way all the way out of Barcelona with poor Elizabeth and Peter following. They wanted to visit Andorra but were nervous about going on their own, so Andy offered to lead the way! What a journey out, made more horrendous by absolute torrents of rain.

After two hour journey we crossed the border of Andorra, an isolated, mountainous, landlocked principality on the southern slopes of the Pyrenees, and whose 7 parishes are adminstered jointly by France and Spain. It is mostly visited for its winter sports and tax free status. Not sure why we were here as certainly did not feel like buying skis at this stage.

Really we came for the scenery and were not disappointed. The scenery en-route from Barcelona was wonderful and I just gazed out feeling more amazed around every corner. Site had been advertised as well sign posted. What a joke! Who writes these statements. Did not see a sign for a campsite even when we were high in the heart of the capital negotiating tiny roads. The only way out was an illegal one, to use the bus lane! Campsite was very close to town and surrounded
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Andorra
by mountains, the trees at the ridge were still covered in frost, even at 4pm and the caps were snow-covered.

Parked up and headed out into the town which was full of the same type of shops; all selling jewellery, electrical goods, perfume and jewellery. Never sure how cheap these tax free places are, as perfume did not seem much cheaper. Did not get back to van until 9 when it was still light. After a very late meal fell asleep with my window blinds open, admiring the twinkly lights from the streets and houses set high into the mountains.

Friday, 18th April
Awoke to rain pattering down on the roof. I know they need the rain but why today??? Rained all day. Andy and Elizabeth braved the morning rain and walked back into town and we ate lunch about 2 with the plan that we would walk back into town when shops re-opened at 4. Not really sure if we are in France or Spain, and not sure what language to use! I had spent morning trying to negotiate the 3 amps electricity we had paid for. What a joke this was. 3 amps is no good
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Andy could not resist a snowball fight!
when you are cold and need a fire on and a cup of coffee. With the fridge also running off this little amount I kept having to work out what could run with what, very unsuccessfully. Kept tripping the fuse and by time Andy had returned I was running out of plugs on the outside inlet to switch to (good job we were only ones using the electricity block). It always is an issue working out what you can run with what but we had never ever only been given 3 amps with usual supply being 6. An occasional bonus had been 10amps which meant we could heat water, boil kettle, run fridge and computer all at once.

There was a lull in the rainfall at about 5, so armed with coats, umbrellas, gloves and scarves we wandered into the town again. Andy re-traced his morning steps and took me to the church in Andorra la Vella, made in glass in the shape of a 3 pyramids, presumably representing the Trinity. It looked totally out of place underneath the backdrop of mountains covered in pine trees and the older style Swiss tall apartment blocks. Sadly the rain was again
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Funny old town with this amazingly painted house looking as though windows open etc. Actually one one house
torrential so we dived in and out of the shops for cover. All extremely designer, very posh and all employing a security guard. Only thing missing was shoppers! There was no-one in any of these shops and I felt decidedly uncomfortable in my wellies and kagole (sorry Alexia!). Drink was extremely cheap here but restricted to one litre and you have to go through customs on any of the 3 roads out of Andorra.

Saturday, 19th April
After rain all night we awoke at 8 to quiet. Rain had stopped.Packed up ready for our journey across to the South of France. All ready to go when a red engine light appeared. Fortunately it was good timing as turned out to be lack of any water, so soon filled up and were off, stopping to fill with cheap diesel. Price of diesel has been creeping up since we started our journey all adding extra costs. Once we got through Le Villa we hit the snow big time. The roads are continuously cleared and there were snow ploughs everywhere. We passed lovely little ski resorts and enjoyed watching people of all ages and sizes coming down the slopes. Actully there is
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2,000 yr old Roman bridge, highest ever built by Romans.Compare it to 8months ago when we were at Millau
a lot to do in Andorra, other than ski and shop. There are many good walks, allegedly lots of bird watching, many chuches, museums and monuments, including a museum housing the world's largest collection of miniatures. An 8m motorhome is not the ideal mode of transport for Andorra but I would like to return here one day in a car to explore more fully.

The journey back across the Pyranees was breathtaking. Hard work on the driver but I sat in front marvelling at the scenery. We stopped for our baguette (of the less crusty variety) and headed for motorway at Perpignan. Quick trip down E9 and we were at our destination, a camp site in Lr Grau d'Agde right on the river L'Herault which fed into the Mediterranean. It had been a long journey and by 5 when we pulled on the camp site felt we could have pulled off again, had we not had been so tired. Had forgotten about 3 star French camp sites. This one had only been open a week and obviously we found it as it had been left when closed in September. Weeds knee high, unkempt and shared toilets, ugh. Had an
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Bridge over river
early night and hoped things would look better in the morning.

Sunday, 20th April
Decided to stay put on camp site as Elizabeth and Peter needed to relax before heading north for ferry whilst we were wanting to go east. Heavy cloud today and not that warm. Spent morning having a clear up and then walked along the river footpath down towards the beach and along the front. Windy and quite cool. .

Monday, 21st April
Blue sky today and Elizabeth's birthday, the reason we had stayed with them to share in her celebrations. Enjoyed a bottle of champagne before cycling into Adge. Lovely ride along the river using the cyclists route. The houses in Adge, typically French, old and very run down. We wandered around amazed how people live in these delapidated buildings. However, as always there is a surprise around every corner and here we came across houses that had been painted so realistically to look as though windows were open, flowers in bloom etc. Will try and attach photo. Stopped for a meal in a riverside Moroccan restaurant. Andy and I had Taguine mussels. Very different and very delicious, washed down with Moroccan tea served
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Roman Amphitheatre
up in delightfully decorated glasses. On way back we cycled out to a hypermarket to get some prawns which we enjoyed for supper.

Tuesday, 22nd April
More celebrations today for our 30th wedding anniversay. Was hoping for a pearl and was not disappointed! Lovely sunny day so enjoyed another bottle of champagne before walking to a nice restaurant we had seen just along the seafront. Enjoyed a delicious meal of fish soup (skipped on the gizzards and brains, ugh! - the things the French like to eat are sometimes not to our liking), fish platter followed by a coffee beautifully served up with 3 delicious miniature desserts and decorated with exotic fruit, yummy.

Wednesday, 23rd April
De-j-vou of our 25th wedding anniversary; unwell all night after fish meal, so plans to move on put on hold.Actually think it was bug rather than food as we had all eaten same. Andy pottered about all day and enjoyed a long beach walk to the next town, whilst I slept all day and night.

Thursday, 24th
Woke feeling much better so packed up, said our goodbyes to Elizabeth and Peter, promising to call and see them in Dover on our
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Town centre
return in few weeks. Planned to drive to a place called Comps, west of Avignon. Lovely drive along N113 with good scenery and always something going on; asparagus being picked, vineyards being tidied. At lunchtime found a wonderful spot in a pretty village called Remoulins where we ate our lunch. Andy had a little doze whilst I enjoyed a peaceful time sitting in the sun, on a rock, sketching a great view on the opposite side of the river Rhone. We were heading for Pont du Gard, a 2,000 year old bridge, the highest at 160 ft, built by the Romans. The bridge comprises of 3 tiers of continuous arches and is really a spectacular sight. We did not arrive until mid afternoon and had to pay 5 euros to park. We could have spent much more time here as there was plenty to do with people were canoeing down the river, swimming, walking and generally enjoying the setting. We kept thinking of the poor slaves who had had to carry the stones into place as some weighed 6 tonnes. Had a photo taken looking out to the bridge as we had done in Millau and compared the different styles
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Rivder Rhone running thro Beaucaire
of bridge, 2,000 years apart.

About 6 set off to find a place to park up for the night and about 10 miles away found an Aire in a village called Comps. Parked by the river bank and walked into the village where we had to pay the Mayor the 3 euros. Stopped and had a drink in the village where we spotted a poster for a circus. Circus Alexia(!) arriving tomorrow...... Sat and ate our meal on the river bank at 8, still in t-shirts. It was a peaceful memorable moment watching kingfishers darting about in the trees, egrets coming home to roost, a red kite circling overhead and then saw an otter majestically swimming up river.

An English van parked further along and the owner came over to tell us a tale about how he and his partner had been employed by Keycamp to work at Eurodisney over Easter. Terrible tale really with working conditions you would not believe. They walked out of the job with no notice and were now on the run!

Friday, 25th
I awoke at 4 am to sounds of a youth outside shouting and hollering. After getting up to ensure
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Outside wall of church in Beaucaire depicting Last Supper
no harm being done did not get back to sleep until about 6 when we were again rudely awoken. This time by the honking of lorry horns. Wearily peered out of the window to find the circus arriving and setting up the big top outside our van! Had quickest wash and change ever before a very sharp exit.

Later we were glad of the early start as decided to visit the nearby town of Arles. In true French style found a massive free car park right on the edge of the town. Walked along the River Rhone and entered the walled town. What a charming town it was and seemed to have it all. Highlight for Andy was the Roman Amphitheatre, one of the best preserved monuments of Roman Provence. Each arch is supported by Doric and Corinthian columns which were in the process of being cleaned whilst we were there. There are still bullfights held within the massive arena which seats 21,000.

The church frontal here was amazing and the Roman theatre and baths in addition to much reference to Van Gogh. Think he only spent a year here, but despite this a lot of the focus
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The Olde Chateaux
in the shops is centred on him and a few sketches are held in some of the many museums here. As usual we got off the main tourist route and enjoyed a few hours soaking up the atmosphere.

Back at the van we had a quick lunch and then headed north for a small town called Beaucaire. To be honest there is so much to see in this area it is difficult to choose what to do first. The Rhone runs through the centre of Beaucaire and there are hundreds of immaculate houseboats moored along the river. Had a bit of a job parking but once we had we found an extremely pretty town with an amazing chateau built high over the town. The church although closed had an external frieze depicting the Last Supper. The whole place was very interesting but despite this did not even get a mention in any of the tourist guides for the area. We did feel disappointed that the town was full of arabs and shops catering for their very different needs. What I mean by disappointed is that for such an interesting place it had losts its French feel and lent a
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Coastline nr Marseille - all very pretty (and expensive all round!)
very different atmosphere that did not feel very welcoming.

By now it was getting late and we had no idea where we would sleep. Headed out of town in no specific direction when we came across an attractive garden with a sign on the gate. Pulled over to have a look and next thing we are parked up in a kind Frenchman's garden. This man could not do enough for us and kept popping over with bits and pieces. In return offered him a glass of wine, but have to say he did not think much of Andy's carton of cheap wine! From this lovely spot could see the chateau lit by night and needless to say slept like logs.

Saturday, 26th
Despite there being so much to see in the area decided to move on towards the coast.Our french host, Christian, presented me with a spray of flowers and we said our goodbyes promising to advertise his garden stop over on our return to the UK. Set Dora up for Sanary sur Mere, east of Marseille. Obviously wanted to avoid Marseille on a Saturday morning but like the best laid plans of mice and men suddenly found ourselves in middle of 4 lanes of traffic in middle of the city! My expert chauffer soon got us out of the mess and we were soon driving along beautiful coastal roads surrounded by olive groves and picturesque little houses.

We drove through Bandol and then Sanary sur Mere and I have to add here that these little places were the prettiest seaside resorts I have ever seen. Immaculate roads, gardens, beaches. You could not ask for anything more, other than a place to park. Sadly the places were not camper-van friendly and despite driving along the front and back, twice there was nowhere to park and our 2 hour journey was now at 4 hours with Andy getting tired. Eventually found a camp site with a barrier. How were we to get past barrier. Well apparently had to walk up the 'ill to get a key. For some reason this seemed last straw, but with Andy too stressed to drive elsewhere I paid 60 euros deposit for a key and we entered the most grotty place. Bare shady soil under tall trees with the most grotty looking toilets.

To de-stress had a cup of tea and then went for a walk along the front. We really wanted to reach Sanary sur Mere and walked for an hour and a half. With not a glimpse of the town we gave up and headed back around a pretty bit of coast. Not quite sure where we were but there was a nice little beach with brand new board-walk, seats, fence, play area and restaurant. Sat on a little bench looking out to sea and watching the many French familes coming off the beach. We both thought how chic the French are compared to the Spanish. French and usually very well dressed and very friendly.
Got back to the van, had a meal and a shower (showers were not that bad in the end).

Sunday, 27th
Woke this morning with the feeling we could not stay on the site another day. I had actually booked two nights as felt Andy needed a break. Looked in the book for a site nearby and found one 40 miles away. We were soon packed up and heading east and by 11 am were checking in at Camping Miramar on the outskirts of La Londe les Magures. Site quite empty, well laid out and with grass!!! Breathed a sigh of relief and put the kettle on for a cuppa. However, could not settle for long as usual as we could not wait to get out and explore.

Turned out to be 500m from a pretty beach and harbour. There were a few restaurants around the harbour but other than that not much else. Turned right at the beach and enjoyed a good hours walk along the waters edge which went on for miles. Came back to the van for lunch and then decided to explore the beach to the left. Being hot and sunny the beach was quite busy and we enjoyed paddling in the sea and people watching. Where the beach came to an end this side there seemed to be a walk up over a little hill, but we decided that would be an adventure for Monday.

Monday, 28th
In true Monday washday style changed sheets and soon had a line of washing. Mid morning we were off again along the beach and up and over the hill. Turned out to be a very pretty walk around the coast. The beach the other side of the hill was a long pebble beach and we guessed that the first beach may have been man-made. We walked for a couple of miles and then armed with a map from the good old Tourist Information office (not sure we could have managed without these wonderful sources of information), set off into the town of La Londe. Although it was another 2km into town it was an interesting walk. Within minutes of coming off beach we saw a huge chateau, vineyards, tree lined avenues, all with information boards pointing out scenic views. Although we had set off in sunshine, by the time we reached the town the weather had a distinct chill and I started to panic it was going to rain,so it was a hasty walk back and as we walked through the gates the rain started. Soon had sheets ironed and dinner cooked as the rain fell steadily for rest of the evening and night. Never get a good nights sleep with the rain pattering loudly on the roof.

Tuesday, 29th
Awoke to lovely blue skies. I was ready to move on today but Andy wanted to stay. Saw through his thin excuse immediately. Barcelona playing Man U and us with perfect reception where we are pitched up! Done some hand washing and a leisurely day, reading, painting and blogging. Wind got up really strong so we sat on beach and watched surfers and sailors strutting their stuff.


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