From Albania with Love

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So, what the hell am I doing in Albania?

Well, it’s because of Eng. I first met her in Ecuador in October of 2009. We travelled south eating everything from giant roasted pigs in the markets to guinea pig together. She met me for my 8 hour layover in Heathrow on the way to Africa and we knew we had to travel together again. She planned for a month off work and had her heart set on Eastern Europe – and she thought Albania sounded cool. I’m game for just about anything so off set a celiac and an Asian girl from London for an Albanian adventure.

Tirana - the capital city

We landed in time to catch the once-an-hour local bus to the capital Tirana. Our bus was a rocking pink number with a dark purple interior. Our driver looked like an Albanian Fonz, and with a cigarette half hanging off his lip. It is here that we learned that even though we can’t speak Albanian, the people of Albania will continue to have conversations with you as if you can understand. Strangely through a lot of finger pointing and gesturing, we usually do.


When we arrived in town we stuck out walking through the city with our enormous backpacks. We set up shop at Tirana Backpackers and set off to check out the town. I thought with my German/Ukrainian ethnic look I could blend in, but a lot of people were staring. Eng thought it was because of my fair hair, I was convinced it was because she is the only Asian person in Albania. We settled that it was probably because we were the only people in flip flops.


Tirana is a very cool little city. Many of the former communist looking buildings have been painted a myriad of colours, making some streets and buildings looking like an assortment of Easter eggs. Everyone was very friendly, and those who could speak to us were shocked to learn we had come to Albania as tourists; it seemed they were all very proud. The Albanian flag is also very cool. Eng thinks it is a ‘don’t mess with me’ sort of flag. Deep red with a two headed black eagle/bird on it - very intimidating.


We hit up the market to grab food for dinner, (Eng trying some random street meat), and we made friends with the cutest old lady selling eggs. I wanted to take her picture, but we were confused if I could or not. In Albania – shaking your head up and down (meaning Yes in Canada) means no. A wag to the side back and forth means yes. Totally confusing.


During the day the sun was shining and we were happy in t-shirts. But when the wind kicks up, and the sun
goes down, it is freezing! Everyone says I am a wimp – I should be used to the cold in Canada. They don’t understand that we insulate our houses – and that the inside temperature is not the same as the outside temp.


in search of the best bazaar in Albania


The next morning we had to grab a mini-bus to get to Kruja – a town built on a mountainside about an hour away. The mini-vans don’t leave till they are full, and Eng was nervous to get into this one because there were young girls in it. (Thank you Liam Nieson for the fear of being abducted into an Albanian sex trade slave).


When we arrived we were going to hike first and visit the castle second. We had it written down in Albanian to ask for the path up the mountain, and when we showed it to a little old lady; she took us to a police officer who looked concerned. Another man came along who was a lawyer who could speak English. We basically took part in a mini-town forum about how they didn’t feel it was safe for us to climb. The police officer would drive us up (as it was his duty); but that two single girls should not go climbing.


We settled on a visit to the castle, which the policeman was very happy about, and then a few hours in the bazaar which was amazing! They had women in all the shops making carpets on the traditional looms, and they were very eager to show you all of their crocheted socks, woven scarves, and traditional costumes. You could take pictures of everything, and weren’t forced to buy. Again, everyone was so friendly.


Eng liked the looks of a traditional vest that was made of black wool and had tassels hanging across the shoulders, but it was massive and not practical to get home. Instead, the shop owner took his cigarette out of his mouth long enough to show us some peasant blouses with hand stitching on them. Similar to my Ukrainian dance costume – we ended up buying two each! Eng bought one with an outline of a female statues face – and Albania written across it. Amazing!


Lunch was a wonderful lamb dish in a tomato sauce at a cute restaurant overlooking the valley. There is a major café culture here – all day long you see men everywhere having coffee with other men. We caught the bus back to Tirana – public transport is seriously cheap here. The one-hour drive was only a dollar each. I had been warned that Albanians aren’t into recycling, instead they throw garbage everywhere. On our bus ride home we were both shocked to watch cardboard boxes being thrown outside a building, only to look down to a stream filled with garbage everywhere. So sad.

Central Albania

Friday we set off for Berat, a town in central Albania known as the white city. Along the way we saw a ridiculous number of half constructed buildings. Even in Tirana and Kruja, things were being built and redesigned everywhere. It looks like the country is booming, but we learned from an American diplomat we met that a lot of the half-constructed things are to help money-launder for the mafia.


Berat is the cutest little town with lots of cobblestone walkways, old painted doors, and cute little old men sitting around. Everyone I asked to take a photo of would let me, and were very happy when I showed them what they looked like. We got lost walking around the random streets – Eng bought a doily from local woman and I got gelato for 30 cents. Loving this town.


We learned that from about 6 pm – 8 – ish, it is the walking hour. There is one road through the centre of town that becomes a pedestrian street for people to walk up and down. It’s so old school – old men dressed in their suits and hats walk back and forth, while young men walk in groups trying to look cool. The street is lined with cafés filled with men watching. Women are rare (I think they are at home stuck in the kitchen), so we stuck out. We thought it was a Friday night thing, but no, every night, people come to walk up and down the street, talking, walking, and people watching. Oh - along the walk you pass bumper cars and an abandoned kids ride. Seriously, this town is so from the 70's or something, but with cute cobblestone paths and white buildings.


Castles in Albania = workout walking straight uphill


Saturday we got up and walked up a serious incline to the stone village/ sort of castle thing at the top of a hill. We were joined by a school trip, and when one of the teachers found out we spoke English – he had half the school get their photo with us. My fave were the little boys who bought toy guns from the random sellers in the village. The teacher couldn’t speak English so well, but he did ask us to message him on Facebook – I am supposed to look for Andy Balkan. The views from the village were beautiful, and we also ran into an angry turkey who entertained us for at least 20 minutes.


Oh - in case any of you are wondering. Jaromir Jagr has a twin living in Albania. Seriously - same hair from the 90's and everything. We saw 4 chickens for sale tied to a tree in front of a cafe - he was hanging out having a coffee. I was never a Jagr fan - but this guy's look was amazing!


In the afternoon we decided to go to the soccer game at the stadium. Um – we didn’t realize that women don’t go to soccer games. We arrived and the guy wouldn’t let us buy a ticket, and instead waved us down to the door. There had to be 40 men outside just staring at us, and about 6 cops waved us through. Inside half the stadium tore their eyes away from the game to stare at us until we found some seats.


We learned it wasn’t an Albanian super-league game, but the fans were passionate nonetheless. Yelling at the opposing coach was the norm, and when he complained about a bad call, he made a humping gesture and the place when CRAZY. Everyone was throwing shit on the field at him, and he had to be escorted out.
Finally two guys got the balls to talk to us, and when they learned where I was from, shouted to the rest of the men – Kanada. They wanted to hang out with us, but we said we had to meet people. They followed us out of the stadium and wanted to walk with us. We managed to shake them by stopping for ice cream. They were harmless – but Eng said I had to stop being friendly, strange since most my friends tell me to stop being so mean.


After a yummy lamb dinner (in a restaurant where you can order by the organ), we were strolling home through the cobbled streets and I could hear kids playing. We went into the courtyard and found a group of kids playing soccer next to an old church with roman looking columns. I jumped in and stole the ball and it became a fun game of keep-away from the girl. An old man walked through and had a conversation with Eng in Italian – surprised that I could play, and then telling her we could stay at his house. After that some teenage kids showed up, one yelling at his little brother to get home – and they were even more surprised to find me.


One had to try his moves against me, which was quite entertaining. Me in my boots – him in a leather jacket. One little kid with a mullet/rat tail was very eager to play with me, and when we ran into them the next day, I had to make a date to come back and play.


Sunday we boarded a bus with other people from the hostel for a day trip to a waterfall. After arriving at a random town we were meant to hike in, but a gravel truck stopped, let us jump in the back, and drove us along a narrow cliff above the waterfall. When we finally managed to climb down and find it – the water was way too cold to jump in. We walked back to town and had lunch – the best lunch. I love lamb, and this place grilled it up seasoned to perfection.


The last few nights in Berat were so cold I had to triple up the blankets. The new people in the dorm were too drunk to find all the blankets and froze last night. Thankfully there was a really drunk Belgium guy ripping farts all night to keep them entertained. I was warm and wearing ear plugs so I missed the entertainment, but Eng kept me updated in the morning, including a demonstration of his drunk-walk into the room.


So, our first few days in Albania have been lovely. The bus rides are hilarious, the people have been ridiculously friendly, and the food was pretty good. We both think this place will look completely different in 10 years, but who knows if the construction will ever get finished. It’s nice to go somewhere and feel like you are not getting ripped off. Everyone is so helpful and honest, it’s like no one has figured out you can screw tourists yet.


It’s too cold to go to the beach, and the north sounds nice – but we have warmer pastures in mind. I had to pack on three blankets the last 2 nights in the hostel… this cold weather is not doing anything for my fading African tan.


In case you are wondering… there is an Albania – Dancing with the stars. I saw a preview and it looks amazing. As much as the Albanian television is captivating… we’re heading east to Macedonia.

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Photos

Soccer - Albanian style
beautiful view - but seriously? Check out the pitch.

the footbridge
the beautiful walk to our hostel in the Gorica neighbourhood - Berat

Comments

[paula]

hello
wow sounds like you guys are having an awesome time, you guys have done so much already wow. anyways take care be safe Paula