Carnival time inTobago

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Bella Vista Cottage is set on a hillside overlooking Charlottesville, a Tobago fishing village. The fishermen return to this beach throughout the day - the fish market is open from dawn to dusk with freshly caught red snapper, barracuda, tuna, sailfish and kingfish.

Our wooden cottage is really one big room and an equally big verandah. The doors and windows are always open to encourage the breeze - it is like living outdoors but with home comforts.

Interesting birds visit the garden and our bird table. Just after we arrived, two peacocks perched on the kitchen ballistrade. They were so tame that they fed from our hands.

We have arrived in time for the carnival. This started on Monday at 6 am with loud music in the village, "J'ouvert" - the dawn wake-up celebration. We drove to Roxborough, a local town, to join in. At eight in the morning the street was completely full of people:drinking, dancing, shouting, laughing. Trucks stacked with speakers blasted out music, it was so loud that we felt it as much as heard it. Some people wore masks or costumes but most were just dressed to party. We were the only white people in the crowd and they made sure we joined in their somewhat erotic dancing.

Carnival lasts two days, so on Tuesday we went to see the main parade at ten o'clock. Nothing was happening. It starts at twelve, we were told. Twelve o'clock? No, it's one o'clock, or two, or five - it depended who you ask. The parade will come from the left, we are assured. From the right, another says. Eventually the parade started at three, from the right.

A sound truck preceded each set of dancers in the parade, the music again deafening. The dancers were all elaborately dressed in bright colours, sequins and feathers. The dancing ranged from impressive to chaotic. Each group had a theme - butterflies; Indian tribes; pirates' treasure; Great Britain (including Ireland but not Wales!). Sometimes there were long gaps between groups; sometimes groups appeared from the other direction. It carried on into the night.

Two days of carnival took its toll. Shops and stalls re-opened late, with staff who looked tired and hungover. We headed off to see the coral reef; to explore the mountains; look for birds. Walking in the mountains with Junior, a local guide, was a revelation. There seemed to be a new, colourful bird with every step. Here a woodpecker, there a trogon. Here a manakin, there a thrush. And everywhere hummingbirds, often abruptly stopping in mid-air to look around and then dart off.

We have enjoyed five great weeks, staying on seven very different islands. But now, alas, we are at the end of the trip. Later today we fly home.

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