wallibilou to Bequia

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After a night in a very gloomy dank and wet Marigot bay, we were up quite early to sail across to St Vincent. As we motored up the side of St Lucia the clouds seem to hover amongst the green verdant forested hills. Inside the boat everything had felt damp that morning, even the pages of the log book were limp and soggy. As we cleared the island the whole atmosphere inside the boat changed, just as if you had turned on an airconditioner, everything dried up, the sun came out, and St Lucia was a smudgy darkness behind us. We saw callisto in front and stopped for a chat alongside, then carried on to sail to Wallibilou. Another good sail, gentle winds except for the edges of the islands, loads of yachts out, all passage making while the sea was calm. We hooked a fish but by the time we had stopped the boat it was gone!
tab Walllibilou is the little bay where they filmed Pirates of the Caribbean. We last visited two years ago and in that time the jetty that Disney built has been swept away, and part of the hotel jetty. Most of the set is still here, although the fibreglass cannons are beginning to fall apart. It seems a shame they never built anything for the village while they were here, that would have been useful for their everyday lives. The backdrop is stunning, with sharp peaky hills, topped and fringed with palm trees, lush vegetation all around, so green you can almost see it growing. On the shore is a run down hotel, with a dinghy dock. As you arrive a crowd of boat boys vie to take your line ashore. We actually are tied to two buoys which cost us 20ec a night, but I prefer not to have lines ashore . The last time we came here we were on the other side of the bay and a load of people from the capital came down, produced ahuge sound system and had a party. By about midnight they were all out of their brains and setting fire to stuff. It felt a bit worrying as were only a little way off from the shore. So this time we are a bit more secure. It has been a delightful stay so far. The boat boys have been nothing but friendly, coming over for a chat, telling us about their lives, talking about fish.
Last night we went up to Ron and ronnies, the twins, who have a little 'restaurant' called the golden spoon. When we got there they were expecting some other yachties up for dinner so we all had rum punches, after seeing round the kitchen and looking in the oven. Their friend was a painter and he showed us his pictures in the garage, the colours in them were so typical of the island, deep turquoise blues, yachts, palm trees. There was about 10 of us for dinner we all sat together, a friendly italian couple, some english, all very friendly. The rum punch was good and we ended up walking all together down to the bay.
We went up to Cumberland bay this morning in the dinghy. In the entrance are some really shallow huge pinnacle rocks so we anchored the dinghy and had a snorkel on them. THe water is crystal clear, and the rock formations were dramatic. probably a heritage of st vincents volcanic past. Alan went for a dive and said it was great. He went out to the entranc eof the bay and saw some great coral, fish, snapper, etc. I chatted to one of the boat boys while he was gone, who was telling me about the problems they have with the people in the next village. His outboard had been stolen and he could not afford another one.
we saw a man fishing in a canoe, rowing himself out of the bay with the line in his teeth. There were two little boats with a net doing surround fishing, one man was in the water with a snorkel looking for the shoal of fish, Then they drop the net and encircle them. They had one outboard engine between them. Everyone has been very friendly, waving and smiling but there is a big gap here between us and them.
We will do the dive again in the morning so that I can do it, and then on to Bequiapar
fs20 next daypar
I think its tuesday today. This morning we got up early and soon the anchorage was empty of boats, then we charged up the bottles, put our dive gear on and jumped over the side. At first it was sand and weed and then we came to such a dramatic rock formation. It was stunning, great pinnacles of rocks like mountains. ·We swam round the edges at about 24 metres, and saw so many fish, like a blizzard of fish. Angel fish, trigger fish, blue ones green ones, one camoflauged as a rock until it moved, then it was a frilly delight. we came to some sand, and then a strange island of coral, absolutely covered in fish. There was something that looked like a mast sticking out on the sand, later alan said he thought it was ballast from a wooden boat, all that was left, had made this fish island. Very good dive indeed. Back on the boat we had coffee then waved goodbye and headed for Bequia.
tab The last time we came to bequia there was a mad photographer, in a tiny dinghy with a huge camera, he takes a picture of your yacht then sells it to you. He has not been round yet but I think he must have got some good photos as we were under full sail in a calm sea heeled over beautifully. As we came into the anchorage our echo sounder stopped working...we guessed the depth but when it finally started working again we had anchored in 15 metres, but we have 50 metres of chain out so no problem. We had lunch and were jhust settling down when callisto, simon and hilda came over. They had a cup of tea and invited us for rum punch later. Alan saw a hallberg rassy , went over and it was peter and veronica, have not seen them for a year. we are going there tomorrow for drinks, and then on wed we are having a beach bbq. Friday night is the music festival here in bequia, jazz so we are going to that with peter and veronica, will be fun i think.
tab Bequia is a really yachty place. we are anchored off princess margaret beach, white sand with a fairly upmarket restaurant on the beach. Down in the bay are hotels, bars, little shops boutiques, it is really very attractive. They are geared up for yachts, and daffodil services come around with water, fuel food, and take your washing.
The bay is protected and tonight calm with a cooling breeze and the boat is still. from the beach we can hear the music, very pleasant level. So all is good here, we have been having a fun time, and enjoying the sailing which has been lovely. Have to get my guitar out now for tomorrow night, hope they enjoy my three songs!! good night.
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Photos

wallibilou
man fishing with line in his teeth