This is being written on our apartment balcony. The sun is setting over the Caribbean in front of us. To the left, the twin peaks of the Piton mountains. To the right, is Anse Chastanet, our local beach. In the fridge, some kingfish steaks and fresh vegetables for dinner ... and some good local rum, just £6 a litre. From St Lucia airport, we drove off in a rather old Suzuki jeep – that's what a cheap rental gets you here. It proved ideal on some pretty poor roads, especially when we hit the final two miles to the villa, a steep and rough switchback that climbed up Hummingbird hill until we reached the villa and the view in the photos. We have tried to work at the local pace today, with a trip to Soufriere
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