PANAMA: Panama City & San Blas islands

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PANAMA: Panama City and San Blas islands

We were sad to say goodbye to Galapagos, but excited for the next chapter!

We arrived in Panama City at around 1am, watching from the plane window I was surprised to see how built up it was. Taxi man 'Super Mario' (complete with sovereign 'S' ring that looked like it had come from a fancy dress box) pointed out the skyscrapers, casinos and large international hotels that made up the rich area. We chose to stay in Hospedaje Casco Viejo, located in the old town - the nicest part of the city. One thing that struck me was the number of police patrolling, even outside our hostel there were 3. Apparently they are working hard to attract visitors and make people feel safe. It certainly didn't feel dangerous.

The first day we were really tired, had a lazy start then used it as an admin day to sort out what we'd be doing in Panama. We've spoken to quite a few people on the way about Central America and getting mixed reviews on the different countries, so we're still working out a basic route.

Panama Canal

I can't say I was that excited to see the canal system, but seeing as it's the number 1 thing to do in Panama City we had to do it...

For $15 you get entry to the museum, a short movie about the history and top viewing spot to see the boats come through. We were told by other travellers that it cost boats US$400-500 to go through the lock, and US$1 million for the larger one!

It was amusing to see how excited some tourists got about seeing a boat. I get that It's impressive to see what's been achieved, and definitely worth going, but i don't think it'll be a Panama highlight for me.

San Blas islands

There's 365 islands in the archipelago, 49 of which are inhabited by natives, the Kuna Indians. They self govern the islands and part of the mainland. It means no one else can get involved with business there. The tour operators just line up the tourists, transport them, then they're in the hands of the kuna people.

'Ultimate San blas tour'

We were told to be ready for 5.15, pickup was nearly 6am then driven by a maniac on a 2 hour windy journey to the port. I'd taken travel sickness pills luckily (on the way back I forgot - blurgh).

"Paradise"

We arrived in our little island that looked from afar like the paradise island we'd heard about. Small islands, packed with palm trees, white sandy beaches and super clear water. Nice. As we landed it all kicked off, turns out this was party island! In front of the families 2 huts was a clearing with a table laid out with a box of crisps, bottle of local rum, bottle of coke and an esky of beer. The local guys were tucking into the alcohol and kicking back like they were done for the day (turns out they were).

We were holered at from afar, and pointed to our accomodation, a group of tents squished under a piece of tarpaulin (this is the budget option, otherwise you could stay in a dorm cabana). We saw a group of lobster-like white boys stagger out of the cluster of tents. We looked at each other, 'Irish, definitely!'. The paddys looked exactly the same as Cormie when he's had his t-shirt off for more than 10 minutes in Perth. It was literally one in one out, as they pulled out their empty bottles of spirits and beaten up bodies, we moved in. I was delighted that they'd left us a pool of rain water in the corner and lot of little black curly hairs...! Could be worse - we could be sharing the 2-man tent with randoms.

We decided if you can't beat them, join them and had a beer. On the website it says only 1 drink is given for lunch, but the booze was flowing.

Hairy legs challenge

While in the Galapagos Max and I couldn't believe the number of hairy-legged female tourists. If you just looked at their legs alone you'd think they were not just a mans legs, but a very hairy mans legs! It made me ponder how long women's leg hair grows if left...I suggested that I didn't shave for the rest of the trip to see how long I could get them - it didn't go down well! I've decided that I'll postpone shaving them until he mentions hairy legs 3 times! I'm hoping to make it until the end of panama at least...

Toilet issues

We walked around the island (only takes 10 minutes). Looking out to sea, the place looks like a postcard, but looking back to land it was sad to see so much litter. We're aware that we're spoilt in the number of amazing places we've been to, so maybe that's why we were a bit underwhelmed. It didn't help when I went to the toilet...

I went to open the wooden door and it came off in my hand, oops. Move on quickly! I left as a Kuna lady was coming out of the one next door. I went in after her and it STANK, there was shit everywhere so I decided I'd stick to number 1's in the ocean until I got back to the city and number 2's could wait!

Starting to look like paradise...

Luckily by the afternoon the day tour people had gone and everything had been cleaned up a bit so it was actually looking like the paradise every other backpacker was banging on about!

The islands looked idyllic and as Max pointed out, exactly like the ones you'd see on those annoying motivational memes about 'positivity' and 'believe in yourself'.

Intro to "the local horny man"

The rest of the day was spent snorkelling, swimming to the nearest island for a look around and getting to know our fellow camping residents.

2 Swiss girls told us about the issues of travelling here being females...
While snorkelling they were called over by "the horny man" to see something on the bottom, when going to have a look the guy kept touching one of them around the waist and bum and getting off on it. When the girls realised they scarpered quick!

We later met him at dinner, he was smashed on rum. Another kuna guy joined us too, even more off his face. He was trying to communicate and From the slurring Spanish I picked out 'marujana'. I said no thanks but he still pulled it out of his pocket. I found the only way to shut him up was to ignore him, he then staggered off into a hut.

That night I had an unpleasant encounter before bed. I opened the toilet door to throw away a tissue in the bin, and horny drunk man was sat on the toilet butt naked - there's no proper lock but an adequate string to hold the door shut, which he didn't bother to use. A picture embedded on my retina!

Out of the comfort zone

It's easy to forget how good home creature comforts are. Travelling definitely puts you out of your comfort zone which is great to make you appreciate the smaller things. I've found travel blogs only tell you the good stuff to see and do rather than the shit you have to go through to get there! But you start to become comfortable with being uncomfortable.

I was thinking this as I lay in the tent, baking hot, sweating from the elbows (always a sign I'm too hot if I sweat there). I tried to spread my limbs starfish style without encroaching on Max's space. I kept feeling things crawling on me and tried to ignore them, my sand fly bites itching like crazy, trying to block them out. I felt dirty having had no shower, my hair matting into dreads. With the sound of thunder I looked up hoping the tent withstands the heavy downpour about to arrive. All worth it though!

Rice babies

Food is basic here as can be expected, but generally good. Lunch was amazing, freshly caught fish, rice and salad. Dinner was fried fish and plantain. Breakfast was sweet bread (yuk) with loads of Nutella to disguise the bread. We were trying to work out how they cook so much when they only have a tiny stove on the ground big enough for a small pot...! Must bring it over from another island/mainland.

Like when travelling Asia, I'm often forcing food down when I get it as sometimes we won't know when we're next eating. Because of this my rice baby is growing nicely!

Days 2 & 3: snorkelling and trying to appreciate doing nothing!

Struggling to embrace the 'do nothing' culture here, so we've been doing a lot of snorkelling, catching up on Lonely Planet research and brushing up on the old lingo. The Spanish is getting better, I've got to grips with basic questions and answers and can definitely understand way more than i can speak, mainly through picking out certain words and interpreting their body language - they're quite descriptive with their hands. I've found I'm remembering French from school which is odd, I must have a language cell in the deep depths of my little brain.

Having travelled South America before, max is better and enjoying acting like a local, though every time he speaks I have a little chuckle inside as his Spanish accent sounds really pervy!

Other islands

During the stay we were taken by little boats to see other islands, they're all very small, some are literally a few 100 metres wide.

The best was 'Perro island' that has a shipwreck to snorkel around just off the shore. They also stopped on sand bars where we could sit in the warm bath like water and blob about with the big star fish dotted about.

Generally the people here are lovely and friendly, unfortunately a few ruin it by coming across as alcoholic slobs who take advantage. It definitely isn't a 'cultural experience' as made out by many tour operators, but still a unique experience in being on the sidelines of an indigenous and traditional community (the traditions mainly being upheld by the women). Glad we went but 2 nights was enough.

Hairy legs update...

While deeting my legs like a true gent, Max mentioned how it was a waste of deet as mozzies would never get through the hair (second mention). There's only a bit and it's grown in patches, with nothing on the back of the legs, weird. I hate body hair so it's actually paining me to carry on the challenge, so I've made it more interesting by telling max that I'll only shave my legs if he agrees to shave his knees (I knew he wouldn't go for the whole leg - only Mark G does that!).

Kuna facts:

• About 50, 000 Kuna’s live on the 49 major islands of San Blas and are controlled by their own community leader called a Sahila.

• Apart from the tourism of the last few years, The Kuna fish and harvest coconuts.

• They create colourful textiles called molas.

• The main language is Kuna but they also tend to speak Spanish and some have picked up English from tourists.

• Traditionally, Kuna families are matrilineal, the groom moving to become part of the bride's family and taking the last name of the bride.

Next stop - El Valle, a little town inside a volcano crater!

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