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Published: August 25th 2015
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Tumbling in a wave, being tossed and turned, dragged and pushed, held down and throw up... Those seconds maybe a minute under the water, are worth that moment of feeling the surge of the wave and standing up on your surf board. I have always watched surfers in awe, I am in love with the ocean and to be able to travel on a wave is almost like flying on the sea.The amazing thing about traveling is that you met people who change your direction, I luckily met Iris a few weeks ago after a beach party, we then met again in San Juan Del Sur where she told me she was heading to a surf and yoga camp for a week. With no day to day plans only a destination in mind I emailed them amediatly to check for availibitly, and now I find myself here, in a hammock on the yoga deck staring out at the Pacific Ocean in all her glory.I was apprehensive on the journey here, scared of failing I guess, of not being able to stand up but also of tumbling, of breaking, hurting myself agaisints rocks, hitting myself over the head with my board. We
practiced first how to get up on land, with tank (my boards name) the length and weith of her means she is stable but heavy. The current here is tough and the initial struggle to pass the white wash and first beach break begins to take it out of you. My Instutor Dean stood behind my board, I climbed on and found my balance, "paddle paddle paddle" he shouted, then a small push and "up!" I followed the three steps and bam I was standing, flying on the wave for approximately a minute before being throw off and tumbling underwater, as the week has progressed so have I, refining my feet positions, stretching the muscles that ached that I wasn't aware I had and rising at 7am to catch morning low tide. Apart from a fantastic surf teacher El Transito has the most beautiful natural rock pools during high tide. The Free Sprit surf camp was an interesting experience, set up by three friends from Quebec everyone apart from Iris and I were Quebecois so it was a struggle as they mostly just spoke French to each other but it was interesting to be the person who didn't understand for
once as usually everyone communicates in English as it's the common language. Each night we had massive family style dinners and the atmosphere was perfect Bon fire camping theme with beautiful people playing instruments and singing each night. I have always loved the ocean and surviving those moments dragged under water just makes me feel safer in her strong waves. As the experiences last days and the memories last forever, I smile as I realised another thing is ticked off my bucket list and I can't wait to learn curves of new oceans and fly on the sea once more.
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