Day 1: San Juan del Sur, shirt and shoes optional


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Published: December 10th 2014
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Departing on Sunday morning from home was rough. Thanks to another year of an awesome and drunken holiday party, I was not as clear headed as I would have liked. Buy American Airlines doesn't care what I did the night before...I had a plane to catch. Thanks to TSA Precheck I rolled into MIA just about 60 minutes before my flight and to a TSA Precheck line that was practically out the door. It was going to be that kind of morning.

Today's departure was to Managua, Nicaragua. This is my first trip abroad, not for work, in over a year and having nothing but my backpack feels so good. The flight is short and sweet. I napped in hopes to sleep off the rest of my night's prior party. Based on advice from my last minute research I set up a shuttle to pick me up from the airport. However, in my laid back state, I failed to realize I'd be waiting at the airport for it to depart. Waiting 2.5 hours to be exact. It was a shared ride thing and should have left at 1:15. Well the other two passengers traveling with me were on a delayed flight. So I stood. Outside the arrival area at the Managua airport for 2.5 hours. Turned out to be an interesting adventure in people watching. Whole families came to the airport to greet loved ones. One family hired a mariachi band to perform when their loved one watched outside. Cars pulled up and left with far too many people crammed inside. Porters hustled from one group of people to the next throwing bags around. Men climbed on top of buses and loaded luggage. Everyone is dressed in their finest clothes, smiling, hugging and talking on their cell phones. I stood with my back to the wall taking it all in. Politely smiling and declining a taxi again and again. Speaking very bad Spanish to the man that was helping to secure my ride. My driver was not there with my name on a sign as was promised. I kept the man helping me in my sight lines and was happy to find out that two other people would be traveling with me, one all the way to San Juan del Sir and both being men. Your first moments in a country are always telling. Nicaragua is kind, friendly, cheerful and alive.

I have never been happier to meet two strangers in my life. once collected we were off to our vehicle and off to our destinations. Leaving Managua was much like any other large city. Traffic, noise, people, buildings and a man in a cart pulled by a horse. Right on the main road. As we pulled into the country side you could see the vast flat lands and hills that leaf up to the volcanoes. I'm sure I could have detailed more here but honestly I fell asleep. We dropped off one guy in Granada. A town I'll be in soon. And then we're off to San Juan del Sir. We stopped for a quick beverage and our driver scolded the attendant when he wasn't going to give me change for my Pepsi. US dollars are accepted everywhere but I yet to figure out the conversation. Apparently my one US dollar was far over the actual price. As we pulled off the main road and made our way into San Juan del Sir (SJDS), I was excited.

I went to Casa Oro. A hostel recommended by Lonely Planet and was able to check in. A nice quiet room upstairs with a private bath in a big hostel on a main street. Ah...home. for at least a couple of nights.

I set out for a quick dinner. Not having had lunch I was starving. I picked a place right on the beach. SJDS sits on a calm bay on the Pacific coast. It's an old fishing village with a bay full of still be fishing men boats anchored just offshore. It's a beautiful site with the subject setting. High up on the hill is the world's second largest statue of Christ. It faces the bay and town and looks down in a protective manner. It's white and glowing at the sun hits it for the final time. Dinner is scrumptious and gone within minutes. I make my way back to the hostel and climbing to bed early. As I lay reading, noises from the night's celebration stream in. It's a religious festival day and people are setting off firecrackers and bands parade through the streets. It's always fun to happen upon a celebration when abroad.

Monday morning brings a rested version of me and a wonderful breakfast at the hostel. After I set out into town. It's a small town and surfer haven. North there are several amazing surf areas but most called SJDS home base while they are here. I wander up to the main church. Today is a holiday and the church is spill over with patrons. I wander through the market past the vendors, fresh produce and food stands. I pass through shops and homes along the streets. All have that warm sunlit inviting courtyard. I make my way over to the beach for a relaxing stroll. It's incredibly windy and sand blows along the area. People are out and bustling. Today is my mellow day. I'm here hoping to see sea turtles. This will be a night trip soon to be made. So after my stroll I make my way back to the hostel for some rooftop deck reading action. When it's time for lunch I make my way down a new street and discover far more places to try. But first to settle in at Big Wave Dave's. I opt for the daily special, stuffed peppers, and read. I'm delighted by my meal and listening to the group's of people around. Such mix of people. Locals and then accents from all over. I seem to have stumbled upon lots of French people. On the walk back I stop into a coffee shops. One cup and I'm in love. This place has short tables and stools. It's as if I'm in kindergarten again and one wall has books you can borrow to read while the other has an assortment of games to be played. Connect Four anyone? Haha! It's small and festive and I ordered in Spanish. Now I only had to say black coffee with sugar ease but I did it nonetheless! Then a little further down I grab a snack at a taco bar. Another awesome little place called The Taco Stop. All in all it's a lazy and relaxing day.

I had a quick dinner of noodles and chicken in some sort of very tasty Brown sauce and then made my way back to the hostel. Tonight was confirmed for the turtle watching. I was in the lobby at 7 pm and found out that a group of 15 Germans made the trip possible that night. And again my travels have me crossing paths with Germans. They really are the best! After a short video learning about the reserve, La Flor and about the turtles that nest there, the Olive Ridley and Leatherbacks, we were off. I sort of lazied my way out of the lobby and once I saw the vehicle I should have hurried. I knew there were gravel roads ahead and sitting sideways, in the very back, of an open air extended converted Jeep-like vehicle was not going to sit well with this prone to motion sickness girl. Oh well. Into the back I climbed and they closed up the gate. It sort of felt like a cattle truck. As we drove away, I realized there were about 4 different ways I could easily fall out of the truck. This was going to be interesting. The night air was clear and as we began on the hills and curves the breezes picked up. I was relaxed and comfortable and enjoying the ride as well as white knuckled gripped on the railing. It was about an hour past businesses and homes. But all in all a beautiful drive all lit up by a glowing just-shy-of-a-sliver full moon.

We pulled I to the reserve and lined up. Our guide passed out small red flashlights. It's the end of turtle nesting season and we are looking more for baby hatchlings than mothers coming ashore. Either way, I'm excited. So are the Germans...all chatting and clearly eager to start. Our guide comes down from the main building with a basket of baby sea turtles. Turns out these hatched during the day and the guards pick them up to protect them from predators. I am ecstatic to see the little guys all flopping around and clambering to get out but also worried that this is all apart of some ploy. We make our way out to the beach with a plan to go down to the water line and release them. As we walk out onto the beach not more than 30 yards we all practically step on more baby turtles! Eek!!! They have just come out of their nest and are scrambling down towards the water. We're told to pick them up in order to help them. This beach is full of giant crab holes (think size of a grown man's fist) and the baby turtles fall in them and are then eaten by the crab. I'm grabbing babies like a mad woman just mad at the thought! We then all very carefully make our way down to the water line. We all stand in a straight line with the light from the moon behind us, take a turtle in each hand and gently set them down on the sand. Immediately their flippers go wild and they are racing towards the water! I squeal with glee at the site!!! I then take another one from the basket and let it go. They are the cutest most eager things of life! The entire time you hold them they are rapidly flipping their flippers. They are so tiny that you barely need two fingers to hold them. But watching the scramble to the water has to be the most precious thing I've ever seen! Not many of them will live to adulthood but for the moment I'm hopeful they will all enjoy the ride when they hit the waves!

After the release we roam the beach hoping to see a momma. We're in luck! The guards have called to say that one has come ashore. It's a Olive Ridley. They are the smallest of the sea turtles and this one is very old. By Tue time we come upon her she is done laying her eggs. Watching her cover them up and pound down on the sand with her back flippers is incredible. How she lifts the shell is beyond belief. Then she makes a turn for the water and starts on her way. Job complete. We all keep our distance yet escort her back to home. She has to take several breaks as she makes her way down the beach. The amazing thing is she went back to the water on the exact same tracks/path she came in on. All the way down to the water's edge I go and watch as the wave comes over her. For her all I sense is relief that her tough job is done again for this season.

This was a special night and the reason to head south in Nicaragua. Well worth the visit and to see all the conservation efforts. If you go, please stay at Casa Oro or at least take their tour. They have been very helpful and recognized for their efforts to save the sea turtle populations in Nicaragua.

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10th December 2014

Glad you're traveling again, Courtney! I have missed reading your adventures. :)
10th December 2014

Thanks Aura! Feels good to be out here again!

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