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Published: June 30th 2011
Crossing the Panama / Costa Rica Border
and keeping quiet about how things could be improvedK- The last few days have been a little “trains planes and automobiles” – albeit without trains or planes. We are definitely back to nitty gritty traveling after our little Caribbean break! Reluctantly leaving Bocas del Toro we took a water taxi, normal taxi and bus to the border with Costa Rica followed by 2 buses (with an overnight in San Jose) to Nicaragua. The border crossings were relatively painless - just tedious, hot and completely inefficient. I took a few chill pills and smiled bravely but it was very hard to stop myself suggesting process improvements! We then took a ferry to Ometepe – a Nicaraguan island made up of 2 volcanoes joined by a lava flow in the middle of a vast lake.
There was a big local event on there this weekend – ostensibly to promote tourism but really just a local jolly. Ear splitting doesn’t begin to cover the volume of the music, which went on until well past 1am (on a Sunday night....I'm impressed!). See Marks blog for details of the star acts. It was a really nice afternoon - and we enjoyed watching the locals relax and party.
We also enjoyed some local
Ometepe Island
Lets climb the one on the left someone suggested..... cuisine (a soup with pumpkin and a suspicious looking but tasty meat) and had a couple of local beers with our new friend Louis who was happy to practise his English and help me with my Spanish. Discussing football at great length he summarized the state of Mark’s team with the immortal phrase ”Aston Villa need more better players”! Mark could only sadly nod in agreement. Louis also gained points with me for being a Real Madrid fan rather than a Barcelona supporter which the rest of Central America seems to be. Yes – I am still bitter!
In a moment of recklessness we then decided to climb the volcano on the left of the picture. Yes - the big tall one that goes straight up. So 5am on Monday saw us plus our mandatory guide and 2 medical students from West Virginia on the local chicken bus to the foot of the volcano. I would like to describe the beautiful cloud forest and the enjoyment of pushing ourselves to our physical limits whilst listening to the howler monkeys but unfortunately I can't. It was just hideous. Virtually straight up and so humid and hot that I thought I
was going to collapse. The medical students were in their twenties and went off at a rocketing speed. We did not. It was farsighted of us to bring them with us though as we both needed them when we emerged from the forest after 2.5 hours. We were about ¾ of the way up and without any doubt at all we elected not to proceed up the sheer, shale face but to wait instead for our fellow adventurers. A very good call. 3 hours later they re-appeared grazed and bloody and a little upset having not made it to the top due to the cloud and precariousness of the terrain. We meanwhile had eaten our sandwiches, enjoyed the spectacular view in the sun and had a little re-energizing nap.
Having been told (and seen a printed brochure) that the ferry from Ometepe to Granada left on Wednesday at 12.30pm we then proceeded across the island to the correct port. Altagracia is pretty much a one horse (and two pig) town so having little else to do we decided to double check our information and walked the 2KM to the port – where the security guard told us that the
Lunch!
We dont ask - if it tastes good we eat it! twice weekly ferry actually left at midnight that night. So a quick change of plans was required. I volunteered to have a little afternoon nap so as not to waste the $5 room we had already rented for the night and Mark was entertained by a local procession which included a marching band (with tuba), a Madonna statue, fire crackers and a man carrying a car battery behind so as to illuminate said Madonna. At least he says this went past the hotel - it appears I slept right through it and he can't produce a photo.
Having already squandered $5 on a room we now didn’t need as we now had to catch a ferry Mark then blew the rest of the days budget on a $1.25 haircut. I spent the time during the cut conversing with the 4 year old in the picture. Giselle now thinks that all English people are VERY stupid. Anyone who has ever talked with a 4 year old knows that they have their own little world and a conversational style which goes off in tangents. Without any context for the discussion I was floundering. I know that someone was sick and that
No hablo espanol
Its official - 4 year olds speak better Spanish than me! Giselle herself “had” some item or other in her Tinkerbell bag but that’s about all. My attempts to tell her that I didn’t speak Spanish were greeted with giggles – I guess at that age you know that everyone speaks your language so clearly this woman was just a bit dim.
The midnight ferry left at 1am but was otherwise surprisingly easy - with just enough soft benches for us all to sleep on for the 4 hour crossing to Granada. After another taxi (this time with a large Nicaraguan lady sitting on my lap.....don't ask) and couple more hours hanging around the local park drinking instant coffee we proceeded to our hotel. After 4 nights of budget accommodation (clean and safe but basic with cold showers) we have upgraded to a lovely little hotel with a pool and courtyard …… and hot water. My birthday present from Mark is going to be clean and well-conditioned hair. What a guy!
We are spending 2 nights here looking round the old Colonial town and neighboring villages before catching a flight to the remote Corn Islands off the East coast of Nicaragua. Yep – its the Caribbean again. Life is
No pain no gain
Now I think it was worth the effort hard!
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