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Published: August 2nd 2008
Hey, looks like my world famous fantastic computer skills have finally caught up with me, and the end of my blog was missing last week!! No idea what happened, go figure! Anyway, here it is -well, a summary of it anyway, because I don't want to type up everything again, just as I'm sure you don't want to hear me going on about my diving. Ooops, actually you're going to get just that anyway, because diving is fab people!!! By the end of my first day on the course, I wasn't convinced I was cut out for the whole breathing underwater thing, but I persisted and ended up absolutely loving it. I give up trying to tell you just how much I did love it, I don't know what's going on but I keep on losing this part of the text, so you'll just never know what it's like unless you go try diving for yourself!
For all of you blondes out there, I now know what it feels like to be blonde- some of you might know the joke of the blonde who goes to her doctor's complaining of an earache; the doc asks her to remove her earphones so
he can look at her ears, and when she does, she keels over and dies... Intrigued, the doc takes the earphones and hears 'breathe in, breathe out, breathe in...' Well, when you dive, you ALWAYS have to breathe, holding your breath can be fatal as it can cause lung damage, so when I started off, I was concentrating a lot on breathing... Just like a blonde would! Hehe blondes everywhere, don't get offended, it's only a little joke!
I went to Corn Islands for 5 days, and I ended up staying for over 2 weeks... I nearly left on time though! Nearly! On the day I was due to leave, I took my bag to the dive shop, went for one last dive... and signed up for the advanced course instead of getting the panga! What can I say, I found paradise, and I really thought Kerrence, my instructor, was fantastic, so I thought I might as well stay if I feel like it! The joys of travelling by myself, I can do what I want, it ROCKS!!!! For the first time ever, I found an island about which I thought 'I could live here...' Little Corn has it all-
pretty beaches, lovely sunsets, fab locals, fantastic diving... Add to that that the whole gang at Dive Little Corn were really good fun- Kerrence the best instructor ever and mad about NZ, Kiwi Mark 'Hi, my name is Mark, I'll be your guide today...', Michelle 'Where did you get this shell?! In the sea?!?! Well, it's going back, NOW!' (no, it was NOT me who took a shell out of the sea!), Clint 'you not gone yet?!', as well as the other people working on the island and the tourists, and I can tell you, the last week was rather shattering, what with the diving in the day and the drinking at night!!!
Anyway, all that to say that I am now a diving fan, but after over 25 dives I finally managed to get myself to leave paradise... I consider these 2 weeks as a holiday, travelling being a real tough job!
My blog ended with me telling all about animals I've encountered recently, such as cats squatting my bedroom on the island (we're talking wild cats here, a mum and her kittens, and she'd have defended them to death had I attempted anything!), a crab crawling his
way into my bedroom as well, at 5.30am, then climbing his way up the wall up to the banana roof to go to sleep (crabs can climb?!?! This is a real voyage of discovery for me, let me tell you!). I'm brave, so I just went back to sleep (OK, I was scared witless and there was no way I was going to get out of bed, happy now?!), then told the first person I found that night- it happened to be Kerry, the cook, who beat it to the pulp with a beer bottle to get it out of its hiding hole... I felt sorry for it to be honest... but not sorry enough to spend the night with a crab in my room! I had a real big moan about cockroaches, who have been everpresent for the past 3 months- it went from me trying to drown one in the sink (don't try it, it doesn't work- I ended up having to boil it to death... Eviiiiiil!), to one running out of my backpack one day (believe me, this was the very last time I ever left my bag open when I'm not using it), or me buying
Baygon to kill a coackroach, before having a change of heart and being too chicken to use a product that can kill an animal who can resist a nuclear bomb (well, my logic is, that Baygon stuff's got to be pretty strong to do what a bomb can't, right?! So I thought it might be a tad dangerous for me, and went to get a local instead. At least he got a good laugh out of it!) So there you go people, you've caught up on my Corn Island adventures. I could have summed that up much quicker- go to Corn Islands, it is one of the last not too developed jewels of the Carribeans. And go diving, it rocks!
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Beginning of the real blog now!
I left Little Corn at 7 am last thursday; I took the panga back out to Big Corn (that panga alone is reason enough to go to Little Corn, it's like a Disneyland ride, all bumpy and fast, and you get out drenched!) and then took the ferry back to Bluefields and the main land. Funnily enough, I was the only tourist on the ferry- I think being sick on the way
out convinces all the tourists to take the plane to get back! Once again, my stomach held its own; I think the 2 weeks I spent diving, going out on the boat several times a day everyday for sometimes quite rough rides has helped turn me into a budding captain! I wasn't sure how the rest of my day was going to pan out, as I wanted to go all the way to Leon (at the other end of the country), but wasn't too sure about boats and buses times. But it turned out perfectly- once in Bluefields, I got a panga to Rama where I got 2 hrs later, and from there, a bus was leaving for Managua at 9pm, giving me just enough time to go for a walk in Rama and eat something. At 3.30am, I was in Managua, too tired to be scared- I got on the first bus to Leon an hour later, and managed to get some 2h30 of blessful sleep before being shaken awake by a guy wanting to let me know we were in Leon.. The bus actually didn't go into the town center, and clever as I am, I decided that
after a 24hr journey, it would be a great idea to walk to my hostel... When I got there an hour later, I had changed my mind, believe me! I spent the day visiting the town, which I have to say I preferred to Granada- it might not be as pretty (the buildings aren't restaured as they are in Granada), but it has a much more authentic feel to it. I went to the Museo de Martyres y Heroes, which is a museum in honour of the victims of the Revolution. Time of a bit of history! In the 1930s, Somoza (bad guy of the story) took control of Nicaragua and started a dictatorship which was going to last 40 years; even his assassination in 1956 didn't put an end to the dictatorship as the power simply went to his son. The Americans, ever helpful and full of good intentions, did nothing to help the people- Roosevelt reportedly said of Somoza 'he might be a bitch, but at least he is our bitch' Nice, hey?! By the 1960s, virtually the whole of Nicaragua belonged to the Somoza family and their friends, and the people were extremely poor. Fonseca then created
End of a long mural representing the history of the country- Nicaragua is beeing rebuilt, and the children represent the future
Fin d'une longue fresque representant l'histoire du pays- le Nicaragua est en reconstruction, et les enfants represent le futur (on me l'a explique, je n'invente pas!)the FSLN, Frente Sandinista (Sandino was an opposent to Somoza; the latter had him murdered in the 1930s) de Liberacion Nacional, which was trying to fight the dictatorship. 2 days before Christmas 1972, an earthquake devastated Managua, killing over 6,000 and leaving 300,000 homeless; when international aid poured in, Somoza just pocketed the lot. All classes of society started to turn against the government, and for the next 7 years, the FSLN tried to fight it. The last straw was one more assassination in 1978- students took to the street, soon followed by workers, and a big strike ensued. However, the police responded by killing thousands, and people started to defend themselves- the revolution finished on July 19th, 1979, with the FSLN marching into a free Managua. Right after that, the Sandinistas took power and set off helping the people- over the next few years, the illiteracy rate went down from 50 to 13% and the economic situation vastly improved. However, this was unfortunately not going to last long- by 1981, Nicaragua's relationship with the USA had deteriorated, as the USA were concerned about Soviets and Cubans in Nicaragua. Reagan therefore decided to start financing the Contras, most of them
were ex-soldiers of Somoza's guard, and he also started an embargo on Nicaragua, and made sure that his allies would do just the same. By 1990, Nicaragua has sunk back into poverty due to the embargo, and the FSLN lost the elections (it didn't help that the US promised a big financial help if the other party won). Since then, the country has been fighting poverty- it is the second poorest country in the southern hemisphere (although they've lost track of who really holds the 2nd place, Nicaragua or Honduras), and 80% of the population live with under $1 a day...
Travelling in Nicaragua, you can't deny that it is a poor country, it strikes you everywhere- when you see the number of beggars in the street, when you see some of the houses, when you just speak to people... They might be poor moneywise, but as corny as this is going to sound, they are rich in their hearts, as they will always take time to help you out or just chat to you. What I will remember most strongly about the Nicas is how proud they are- extremely proud of their history and of the revolution, and so
should they be- they were opressed and many a people would have seen no way out, but instead, they took to the streets with any form of weapon they could find, and fought for their country's freedom. Many of them were my age or younger when the revolution started, and they knew they probably wouldn't live to see the end of the revolution, but they fought for the cause that they saw as more important than their own lives, the freedom of their country and its people... How can you not be proud of your country and its people when this happened yesterday (OK, it was the year I was born, so maybe the day before yesterday!), when most people have a son, a daughter, a brother, a sister or a friend who was brave enough to not worry about their own lives and put the good of their country first? I have to say, for me this museum and the mausoleum next to the parque central were very emotional places, as the revolution is still so fresh in everyone's mind (and how can it not be emotional when the people who explain everything about the revolution in the museum
are the mums of the deceased?!)
I spent a good part of the day what all the fuss was about on Parque Central, where they seemed to be getting a stage ready- now, bear in mind that I'm a bit slow, so by then, I still hadn't ticked that today was the 18th of July, day before the anniversary of the revolution... When it finally dawned on me (yes, eventually it did...), I was told that the president (Daniel Ortega, FSLN guy, they won the last election) was coming to town that night! Never one to miss out on a good old fiesta, I hung around and was amazed by the fervour people displayed- everyone seemed to be wearing red and black, the colours of the FSLN, and the chanting was pretty intense. I have never been to a political meeting in France so I can't really compare, but these people definitely showed an enthusiasm that there is no way I would feel if the French president came to give a speech somewhere near me (would I even bother to turn up?), and I don't think I'd be the only one in this case. Here however, they were all
out in the street, clapping and chanting... OK, I'll admit, so was I when the president started to mention the American imperialism! What's a girl to do?!
The next day was a bank holiday and it felt like the whole of Leon had disappeared- they´d gone to Managua for the celebrations, and Leon was therefore pretty dead, with most shops closed. I still had a good day just looking around and taking it all in... Sunday was volcano day, I went to Cerro Negro, a little volcano outside of Leon- the big attraction for me was not the hike (it only takes 45mins to go up), it was... the sleigh ride down!!! I know, I'm a real kid, but I'd been waiting since Granada to do that! It was good fun, as obviously was seeing the crater of the volcano (it´s still active, the last eruption was in 1999, it covered Leon in ash for about a week- I'm getting used to going right by active volcanoes, neither the stench nor the danger seem to bother me anymore!)
On Monday it was time to go to my next destination, Esteli, in the north of Nicaragua (well, to me it's north
anyway, I suppose most people would consider it to be in the west), close to the Honduran border. Esteli is situated in the highlands of Nicaragua, and I was to realise just how pretty this part of the country is, with its wonderful mountains- there were so many shades of green I was just amazed by the scenery. Once again when I got to the bus terminal I decided taking a taxi was pointless (will I ever learn?!?), so I walked to my hotel... where I got 45mins later. Esteli has a lovely little park at its center and I have to admit I really liked the town, I found it cute, and its inhabitants are very friendly (my way of saying I couldn't sit anywhere without having someone come talk to me). The whole point of my visit there was to go to the Natural Reserve of Miraflor, and when I enquired about it at the hotel, the guy told me I had to take a bus to Yali, get of at the village of Miraflor and take a taxi from there to the reserve- he told me all this, then said 'well, I think so anyway, because I
have never been in that direction'. So the next day, I gladly jumped out of bed at 5am (understand I moaned and groaned my way out of bed) to get the 6am bus. All I knew about Miraflor was that it was 20km away, so I estimated it would take about 30mins... Soooo wrong... At 7, as I was starting to think I´d miss the stop, we got to a sign that said the park was there... I got off the bus to discover a sign, a finca (ranch) and nothing else. Where were the village and the taxis I'd been promised?!?! I had no food or drink (that's what happens when you discover at 10pm that you're going to get a bus at 6am the next day and you obviously haven't planned ahead), but assumed I would find some to buy at the park entrance, so off I went on a mud road which I assumed would lead me where I wanted to go. I wasn't the only one going in my direction, and at some point a man asked me if I was going to the park. Well, to be honest now I have some serious doubts whether
or not that's what he asked me, because here's the thing: I never found the entrance to the said park... Instead, I walked on the road to nowhere, and had a fantastic time! There was a finca every now and again, and best of all, I saw COWBOYS! Real ones, with the horse (yes, it does help!), the shirt, the boots, the hat and everything! I was like a kid I was so excited! There were absolutely gorgeous views, I have no idea where I went but go there, it's really pretty! I think I ended up in a 'village' (there were about 4 or 5 houses and 2 fincas) called Laguna. I had a brilliant 5 hour walk, but was also glad to get back to Esteli and get some food and water!
The next day, it was unfortunately time to leave Nicaragua... It's always sad to leave a country, especially one as great as this one, but I was also looking forward to discovering Honduras, which would be my 4th country in as many months... just a tad slow then...
Sophie's little summary of Nicaragua....
Best place to stay- Whatever my hostal was called in Isla
de Ometepe, because if you're a single gal, you get Ramon and Franklin doing anything to please you. And it's cheap, and doesn't have caockroaches!
Best route- Definitely the bus from San Carlos to Granada, the ride with the cheese and sleeping on bags of rice and beans will be a lifelong memory! By boat, the panga between Big Corn and Little Corn- short ride but lots of fun.
Best place- Little Corn definitely was the best place for me, I just loved it (if you didn't know that by now, you haven't been reading my blogs!) Leon was the best city, and Esteli is a favourite as well, just because it was the first time I saw so msny shops selling cowboy hats, saddles and all the necessary cowboy equipment!
If you need 1 reason to come- the diving. And the people.
The minus- ?!?! Can't think of one, will have to say the number of tourists in Granada just to write something
Best memories- OK, I know I'm going on about diving, but my first breath underwater, the first time I saw a shark, the first time a fish actually swam by my
side without being scared. And also, THAT bus ride from San Carlos, how nice the people are, learning about the history of the country, my first taste of coconut bread, ending up in the water during the kayak ride (and the beers after that), my sweeeeet waiter at the italian in Granada who would have my ice tea with no ice ready even before I'd sit, even having so many 'guests' in my hut on Little Corn!
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J'ai quitte Little Corn jeudi dernier (enfin, c'etait jeudi dernier quand j'ai commence a ecrire ce blog, maintenant ca fait 2 semaines... je prends du retard...); j'ai pris une panga pour retourner a Big Corn (juste cette panga est une super raison d'aller a Little Corn, c'est comme un manege a Eurodisney, rapide and
mouvementee, et on en ressort trempe) et puis j'ai pris le ferry pour retourner a Bluefields. J'ai ete amusee de constater que j'etais la seule touriste a bord- je pense qu'avoir ete malade tout le long a l'aller enb convaint plus d'un de prendre l'avion pour le retour! Une fois de plus, mon estomac s'est bien tenu- je crois que je le dois en grande
partie a mes deux semaines de plongee, puisque je faisais du bateau plusieurs fois chaque jours, et parfois la mer etait plutot agitee; ca y est, je suis un vrai marin! (lol une marine?!?) Je n'etais pas trop sure comment le reste de ma journee allait se passer parce que je voulais aller a Leon (de l'autre cote du pays), mais je ne connaissais pas les horaires de bus et de bateaux. Mais en fait, tout est alle comme sur des roulettes- arrivee a Bluefileds, j'ai pris une panga pour Rama, ou je suis arrivee 2h plus tard. De la il y avait un bus pour Managua a 21h, ce qui m'a laisse juste assez de temps pour manger et me degourdir les jambes. A 3h30 du matin, j'etais a Managua, bien trop fatiguee pour avoir peur- j'ai pris le 1er bus pour Leon une heure plus tard, et ai reussi a dormir 2h30 avant d'etre reveillee par un gars du bus qui me secouait pour me dire qu'on etait a Leon... Le bus ne va pas dans le centre, et intelligente comme je suis, je me suis qu'apres 24h de voyage, ce serait une super idee de marcher un
peu jusqu'a l'auberge... Quand j'y suis arrivee une heure plus tard, j'avais chenge d'avis, croyez-moi! J'ai passe la journee a visiter la ville, que je dois dire, j'ai prefere a Granada- ce n'est peut-etre pas aussi joli (les batiments ne sont restaures comme a Granada), mais il y a une atmosphere beaucoup plus authentique a Leon. Je suis allee au Museo de Los Martyres y Heroes, qui est un musee a l'honneur des victimes de la Revolution. C'est l'heure de la lecon d'histoire! Dans les annees 30, Somoza (le mechant dans l'histoire) a pris le controle du Nicaragua et a commence une dictature qui allait durer plus de 40 ans; meme son assassinat en 1956 n'a pas arrete la dictature, le pouvoir est simplement alle a son fils. Les Americains, toujours la pour aider et plein de bonnes intentions, n'ont absolument rien fait pour aider les gens- Roosevelt a dit de Somoza 'c'est peut-etre une salope, mais au moins c'est notre salope' Sympa, non?!? Dans les annees 60, virtuellement tout le Nicaragua appartenait a la famille Somoza et a leurs amis, et les gens etaient tres pauvres. Fonseca (un des gentils de l'histoire) a cree le FSLN, Fronte Sandinista (Sandino
etait un autre gentil, un opposant de Somoza que ce dernier a fait assassiner dans les annees 30) de Liberacion Nacional, qui essayait de combattre la dictature. 2 jours avant Noel 1972, Managua fut devastee par un tremblement de terre, qui fit plus de 6 000 victimes et 300 000 sans-logis; quand l'aide financiere internationale est arrivee, Somoza s'est tout mis dans les fouilles. Toutes les classes de la societe ont commence a se rebeller, et pendant les 7 annees qui suivirent, le FSLN s'est battu du mieux qu'il pouvait. La goutte d'eau fut un assassinat de plus en 1978- les etudiants sont descendus dans la rue, bientot suivis par les travailleurs, et une grosse greve commenca. Mais la police repliqua en tuant des milliers de personnes, et les gens commencerent a se defendre- la revolution finit le 19 juillet 1979, avec le FSLN entrant dans une Managuq libre. Juste apres, les Sandinistes ont ete elus et ont commence a aider le peuple- en quelques annees, le taux d'illetrisme alla de 50 a 13%, et la situation economique s'ameliora. Mais malheureusement, cela n'allait pas dure longtemps- en 1981, les relations du Nicaragua avec les Etats-Unis s'etaient beaucoup deteriorees, parce que
les USA etaient inquiets du nombre de Sovietiques et Cubains au Nicaragua (guerre froide a l'epoque). Reagan eut alors l'idee de 'genie' de financer les contras, dont la plupart etaient des anciens soldats de la guarde de Somoza, et il commenca aussi un embargo sur le Nicaragua, demandant aux pays allies de faire la meme chose. En 1990, tous les progres des premieres annees Sandinistes avaient ete aneantis par l'embargo, puisque le pays ne pouvait ni vendre ni acheter des produits a tous les pays allies; le FSLN a perdu les elections (ca n'a pas aide que le gouvernement americain ait promis une grosse aide financiere si le parti oppose gagnait) Depuis, le pays se bat contre la pauvrete- c'est le 2e pays le plus pauvre de l'hemisphere sud (bien qu'ils ne sont plus tres surs s'ils sont 2e ou 3e, le Honduras etant aussi tres pauvre), et 80% de la population vit avec moins d'1 dollar par jour...
En voyageant au Nicaragua, je ne peux pas nier que c'est un pays pauvre, je l'ai vu partout- quand vous voyez le nombre de mendiants dans certaines rues, quand vous voyez certaines maisons, quand vous parlez aux gens... Ils sont
peut-etre pauvres d'argent, mais aussi cliche que cela va paraitre, ils sont riches dans leurs coeurs; ils prennent toujours le temps de vous aider ou simplement de vous parler. Ce dont je me souviendrai le plus du Nicaragua est a quel point ils sont fiers- extremement fiers de leur histoire et de la revolution, et ils ont raison- ils etaient opprimes et beaucoup de gens n'auraient pas vu de solution, mais a la place, ils sont descendus dans la rue avec quelque arme qu'ils pouvaient trouver, et se sont battus pour la liberte de leur pays. Beaucoup d'entre eux avaient mon age ou moins quand la revolution a commence, et ils savaient qu'ils ne vivraient certainement pas pour voir la fin de la revolution, mais ils se sont battus pour une cause qu'ils trouvaient plus importante que leur propre vie, la liberte de leur pays et de son peuple... Comment ne pas etre fier de son pays et de son peuple quand tout ca s'est passe hier (OK, c'etait l'annee ou je suis nee, alors peut-etre avant-hier, pas hier!), quand presque tout le monde a un fils, une fille, un frere, une soeur ou un ami qui etait assez courageux
pour ne pas se soucier de leur propre vie et pour mettre le bien de leur pays avant le leur? Je dois avouer, la visite de ce musee et du mausoleum a cote du parc central a ete plutot emotionelle (mot francais ou que je viens d'emprunter a l'anglais?!), puisque la revolution est encore si fraiche dans les esprits (et comment ca peut ne pas etre emotionnel quand les guides du musee sont les mamans de ceux qui sont morts?!)
J'ai passe une grande partie de la journee a me demander pourquoi tant d'agitation au Parque Central, ou ils avaient l'air de preparer une scene- bon, souvenez-vous que j'ai le cerveau un peu lent, alors je n'avais toujours pas percute que l'on etait le 18 juillet, le jour avant l'anniversdaire de la revolution... Quand j'ai finalement relie 2 neurones (oui, c'est arrive...), on m'a dit que le president (Daniel Ortega, le FSLN a gagne les dernieres elections) venait le soir meme! Ne voulant jamais louper une bonne fete populaire, je suis restee et j'etais totalement epatee par la ferveur- tout le monde semblait porter du rouge et noir, couleurs du FSLN, et ils chantaient comme si c'etait le meilleur
jour de leurs vies! Je ne suis jamais allee a un rassemblement politique en France alors je ne peux pas vraiment compare, mais ces gens la montraient un enthousiasme qu'en aucun cas je ne ressentirais si Sarko ou qui que ce soit faisait un discours a Vailly (me donnerais-je meme la peine d'y aller?!), et je ne pense pas que je serais la seule dans ce cas. Ici toutefois, ils etaient tous dans la rue, chantant et applaudissant... OK, je l'avoue, je me suis jointe a l'ambiance quand Ortega a commence a parler de 'l'imperialisme Americain'!
Le jour d'apres etait ferie, et j'avais l'impression que tout le monde dans Leon avait disparu- pas loin de la verite, une grande partie de la population etait partie pour Managua pour la fete nationale, et Leon etait donc plus ou moins ville morte, avec la plupart des magasins fermes... Jamais une personne qui s'ennuie, j'en ai profite pour vister l'hopital du coin- plus qu'une visite a vrai dire... Je ne pouvais plus plier mon index gauche, et j'avais comme des droles de bulles qui me demangeaient sous la peau sur mes mains... Infection de la peau m'a dit le docteur, due aux piqures de moustiques que je gratte- il en a profite pour me dire que je n'ai pas (encore?) la malaria, bonne nouvelle! Enfin, j'ai vu un hopital facon annees 40, ca má fait un peu peur, 1 docteur pour toutes les urgences, des batiments vetustes, des gens comateux partout...
Pour mon dernier jour a Leon, je suis allee au Cerro Negro, un petit volcan en dehors de la ville (fatalement, pas plante en plein milieu, ca serait con quand meme!)- mon but n'etait pas vraiment la marche (seulement 45mins pour monter), c'etait... la descente en luge! Je sais, je suis une vraie gamine, mais c'est pas trop cool de descendre un volcan en luge?! C'etait marrant, tout comme bien sur voir le cratere du volcan (il est toujours actif, la derniere eruption etait en 1999, elle a couvert Leon de cendres pendant une semaine- je commence a m'habituer a voir de pres des volcans actifs, meme plus peur, et la puanteur me derange plus!)
Lundi il etait temps d'aller a ma prochaine destination, Esteli, dans le nord du Nicaragua (enfin, c'est mon nord, mais je suppose que pour la plupart des gens ca serait l'ouest), pres de la frontiere avec le Honduras. Esteli est situee dans les 'terres hautes' du Nicaragua, et je me suis rendue compte a quel point cette partie du point est belle, avec ses montagnes magnifiques- il y avait tellement de tons de vert differents, c'était superbe. Une fois de plus j'ai decide de marcher du terminal de bus (apprendrai-je la lecon un jour?!?!)... et suis arrivee a l'hotel 45min plus tard. Esteli a un joli parc au centre et je dois admettre que j'ai vraiment aime la ville, je l'ai trouvee mignonne, et les gens sont vraiment sympas (ma facon de dire que je ne pouvais pas m'asseoir 5 mins sans que quelqu'un ne viennne me parler). Le but de ma visite ici etait d'aller a la Reserve Naturelle Miraflor, alors j'ai demande des renseignements a l'hotel. Le p'tit jeune m'a dit que je devais prendre un bus en direction de Yali, aller jusqu'au village de Miraflor puis prendre un taxi jusqu'a l'entree du parc. Puis il a ajoute 'en tous cas je pense, mais je n'y suis jamais alle'. Donc le lendemain, j'ai saute en bas du lit a 5h (hum...) pour prendre le bus a 6h. Tout ce que je savais de Miraflor c'etait que c'etait a 20km, donc j'estimais environ 30mins de bus... Faux. A 7h, je commencais a me dire que j'avais loupe l'arret, mais j'ai vu une pancarte du carte et ai saute du bus, litteralement. Il n'y avait absolument rien aux alentours, si ce n'est la pancarte et une finca (ranch). Ou etaient le village et les taxis que p'tit jeune m'avait promis?!?! Je n'avais ni nourriture ni boisson (c'est ce qui arrive quand vous apprenez a 10h du soir que le seul bus pour aller au parc est a 6h du mat', et que vous n'aviez bien evidemment pas prevu), mais j'ai pense que j'en trouverais a l'entree du parc, alors je me suis mise en route sur le chemin de terre qui je pensais, me menerait au parc. Je n'etais pas la seule a marcher dans cette direction, il y avait un homme et 2 femmes, et l'homme m'a demande si j'allais au parc. Enfin, pour etre honnete maintenant j'ai de serieux doutes si c'est ce qu'il m'a demande ou non, parce que voila les faits: je n'ai jamais trouve l'entree du parc... Mais j'ai vite arrete de chercher, parce que j'ai marche sur ce chemin qui menait nulle part, et c'etait excellent! Il y avait une finca de temps en temps, et le meilleur, c'est que j'ai vu des COWBOYS!!! Des vrais, avec le cheval (ca aide...), la chemise, le jean, le chapeau, les'tiags et tout!!!! J'etais excitee comme une gamine, je leur aurais saute au cou si je n'avais pas eu peur qu'ils croient que je voulais me marier avec eux! Les paysages etaient aussi magnifiques, je n'ai aucune idee d'ou je suis allee, mais c'etait une de mes meilleures balades jusqu'a maintenant, superbe! Je crois que j'ai fini dans un 'village' (4 maisons, 2 fincas) qui s'appelait Laguna. C'etait une super promenade de 5h, mais je dois aussi admettre que j'ai ete contente de rentrer a Esteli pour boire et manger!
Le lendemain, il etait malheureusement temps de quitter le Nicaragua... Je suis toujours triste quand je quitte un pays, surtout quand c'est un pays aussi excellent que le Nicaragua, mais j'avais aussi hate de decouvrir le Honduras, qui serait mon 4e pays en autant de mois... pas tres rapide la fille, je sais...
Le petit resume du Nicaragua selon Poupoune...
Meileur endroit ou dormir- mon auberge qui s'appelait je sais plus comment a Isla de Ometepe, parce que si vous etes une fille celibataire, vous avez Ramon et Franklin qui feraient n'importe quoi pour vous.
Meilleur trajet- En bus, San Carlos- Granada avec le fromage et la nuit passee sur les sacs de riz et de haricots rouges; ca, c'est un souvenir qui restera a jamais dans ma memoire... En bateau, la panga de Big Corn a Little Corn; rapide, mais vraiment trop fort!
Meilleur endroit- Little Corn, le paradis; si vous n'avez pas encore compris que j'ai adore, vous n'avez pas tout suivi! Leon etait la meilleure ville, et j'ai aussi adore Esteli, tout simplement parce que c'etait la premiere fois que je voyais une ville avec autant de magasins ou on peut acheter des chapeaux de cowboys, des selles, et tout le necessaire du cowboy!
S'il vous faut une raison pour venir- la plongee. Et les gens.
Le desavantage- ?!?! S'il faut vraiment en trouver un, il y a trop de touristes a Granada. Mais c'est vraiment histoire de mettre quelque chose...
Meilleurs souvenirs- OK, je sais que j'arrete pas avec ma plongee, mais la premiere fois que j'ai respire sous l'eau, la premiere fois que j'ai vu un requin, la premiere fois qu'un poisson a nage a cote de moi sans avoir peur. Et aussi, LE voyage en bus de San Carlos, a quel point les gens sont gentils, apprendre l'histoire du pays, la premiere fois que j'ai goute du pain a la noix de coco, finir a l'eau pendant mon tour de kayak (et les bieres apres!), mon troooooop mimi serveur a l'Italien de Granada qui avait un the glace sans glacons pres pour moi avant meme que j'aie le temps de m'asseoir, et meme avoir tant 'd'invites' dans ma hutte a Little Corn. Et le meilleur- Maman m'envoyant un mail qui dit 'tu as recu tes cartes de plongee a la maison, t'as une vraie tete de guerriere dessus' Moi aussi je te trouve magnifique en toutes circonstances et je t'aime Maman!
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Catherine
non-member comment
Excellent le coup de la luge (la photo aussi !). C'est bon le pain à la noix de coco ? Moi je dis que rien ne vaut le pain de chez toi, je m'en régale à chaque fois. J'espère que ton problème à la main va mieux. Bizzzzz