The strangest capital city ever visited

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Arriving in Managua we were immediately accosted by a taxi guy who was clearly hanging around just for the tourists. We ignored him and another taxi who asked US$5. The next asked N$50 (US$2.80) and we took him. We had a little chat in Spanish and he suggested Santos Guest House as the cheapest place to stay. We were dropped there and thanked him for the information. We compared Carlos with the place across the road and talked to some girls that were just leaving there. For N$200 (US$11) at Carlos we got en-suite and cable TV. It was clean but built with some questionable standards. Metal frames with ply-board, gaps all over, bit shack-like.

We walked to Intur and got some info and maps before heading to the town centre .. well, what was left of it. An earthquake in 1972 levelled the city and although international aid was forthcoming, the corrupt government ensured none it was contributed to the rebuilding of downtown. This seriously pissed off the freedom fighters who eventually overthrew the Somoza dynasty in 1979. No-one lives or works downtown now, all the centers of commerce are scattered around the outskirts of the city. So downtown was deserted expect for a few vendors and beggars. The museum was closed but the cathedral was magnificent. Devoid of colour, it was riddled with cracks. The cross had toppled from one tower, hanging down the dome. There was a plastic roof and some people appeared to be preserving or restoring the frescoes inside. We left that spooky area in search of life. We found it at the MetroCentro mall where we watched 'Next' with Nicolas Cage. Stupid thing was the water was off and we couldn't use the loo. We jumped the barrier. Can't enjoy a movie if you need to pee. Really they should have closed the mall.

Taxis in Managua are a pain. Some try to ask ridiculous prices. Some not so ridiculous but still too high. No-one will offer a fair price, you need to negotiate. And then they will still stop for other passengers. Once we sussed the prices we were fine but it was frustrating.

We found the ideal place to eat across the road from our guest house. It was a home with plastic chairs and tables out front, and it was popular with the locals. Lovely pasta and chicken in a variety of exotic sauces that were not all available. Pieter had curry chicken one night and I had chicken in beer sauce another night. And we were serenaded by a lovely old guy with a guitar.

We used Managua as a base for day trips to Old Leon and Leon (see the next blog) and were not unhappy to leave Managua a few days later. We had heard gunshots during the night so when it came time for us to leave at 4 am we fairly much sprinted with our backpacks the couple of blocks to the Tica bus terminal.

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