that long lonesome road

Published: December 16th 2006
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Well, lately I have been getting quite off the beaten path. After spending three weeks in belize I finally made it to Honduras. My final adventures in Belize: I went to another caye, san pedro, which I didn´t like much at all. It was way too touristy. Plus a little more dear than my budget was liking! So I got out of there quick, and went to dangriga. I had to walk through the ghettoes of belize city--it´s mostly pretty ghetto, at least what I saw, sorry to say...anyway, dangriga was more relaxed. But not many tourists there at all. I had a good lonely time and then ate a whole coconut in the night. My stomach was a little queesy, because I had been eating some crazy street food. In belize city I got some to go, and there is nowhere to eat it, and so I ate it in the park with some pretty dodgy people. But I like doing that sometimes, makes you feel kinda humble. So, that whole coconut, that was too much!

There were a few nice people at the hostel from tenessee, but I was well off the backpackers trail. I rented a bike and biked out of town, for there was forest right near there. It was cool going down these muddy country roads on my cruiser. It was raining a lot those days, which was a bummer and kept spoiling my plans in a big way. But I just rested up, because they say fatigue makes cowards of us all, and I find this true. It´s funny how usually when you get lonely in travels, you meet someone right then. Not always! I had a nice solitary road to follow!

From dangriga, I went down to Sitee river, which is this cool river surrounded by jungle. No one else was staying in the hostel I was in. But they included kayaks with the stay, so I went on a long river ride. THere are crocks and manatees, and of course I was looking for both. The river went throught some great terrain, jungle on both sides...I saw some cool birds, and giant orange iguanas up in the trees. They were huge! I got wet just from paddling., then it started raining, but that didn´t really matter, since i was already wet.

Lots and lots of rain! I kept wanting to go to the jaguar reserve, also called cockscomb basin. It´s a nice big park of jungle, and I love jungle! But with the rain, I kept hesitating and delaying, because I knew you had to walk in 6 miles! Finally I went for it...decided, if it rains, OK, that´s why there´s rainforest there that´s what it does. I started walking in. The first mile was clear, and for that I was thankful. Then the rain came. I kept walknig, determined, and it was pretty wet. I thought it would take forever, but knew I could do it and finally I was there. There was a bunkhouse and I went in. I wrote this poem about it I´d like to share:

While I write by this flickering light
I have complete solitude in the rainforest tonight
It´s something so holy, I hear insects and frogs
rain falling on the forest--natural songs
out there in the jungle there are jaguars, pumas
all the wildest lushest floras and faunas
I´m so blessed that I can be here
with eyes to see and ears to hear
I came to the bunkhouse, no one there
Walked thru the rain 6 miles, no one cared
I did it just by saying I ain´t scared
and encouraging myself. I came prepared
with some ramen noodles, pasta, tomato sauce.,
corn flakes outmeal, peanuts to top
some mac and cheese and a few grapefruits
not much else, but who knows what awaits you?
For there on the table was a can of beans
and half a bag of rice--you know what that means?
someone left me a meal, a feast at that
so I can live it up with the wild cats!
I´m writing this rap so I can relive the moment
It{s so nice, wish I could own it
but I gotta let it go just capture beauty with words
that´s all we can do, it´s the way of the world.

I hung my clothes up to dry
cooked some ramen noodles for lunch--my oh my
then I put on my shoes and went for a hike
stopped raining for a minute, looked like
I went and saw an old plane crash in the jungle
made me feel kinda humble...
I started down a trail into the forest
and it began raining with a lust
I told myself it just needs to get it out of
From snorkeling Key CaulkerFrom snorkeling Key CaulkerFrom snorkeling Key Caulker

We saw lots of sharks and rays
it´s system
but belize has lots of rain, get my gist mon?
and it just keeps going don´t know when it´ll stop
like I say this lantern here is all I got
to pass away the night with, lonesome
yet finding peace with myself, so it´s wholesome
I was so excited to make it to the rainforest
3 days of delays, I told myself I must
and right away I learned all about it
first there´s rain, then forest, that´s about it
but it holds many secrets that rustle in the bush
and if you can spot them before they go woosh
then you´re lucky cause they leave real quick
or else you can´t see them cause the brush is so thick
I wanna see a real live jaguar but
don´t want him to try to eat me up
cause if he does, that´s the end for me
and I dno´t feel like I´m quite ready
Also there´s boa constrictors that can eat you
and venemous snakes with a sweet tooth
so many ways to go when in the jungle
more to watch out for than just trips and stumbles

hope I survive and the rain goes away
all i ask for is a nice sunny day
been gray and dreary for way too long
time for this weather to move along

So it´s kinda a playful, silly fun song.
Now that I think about it, it could´ve been tess who left that rice and beans! That would be too funny.

So, I´ve been writing quite a lot lately, a lot of songs...mostly raps. I really enjoy that. Maybe I´ll write more up here in the future.

I write a lot of my thoughts, do some good thinking. Travelling alone is a really good way to get to know yourself.

Anyway, then next day was perfect. I hiked pretty much every trail in the Jaguar reserve, and probably went 15 or 20 miles. The weather was good, thought there was a little rain--but it started just before I went in for lunch, then broke again. i went and hiked to the falls, clouds looming ominously. As I was almost back, I heard a loud roaring. It was the sound of pouring rain moving over the jungle. I ran down the road to get back to the bunkhouse. I got in just before it
My dog he other side of the islandMy dog he other side of the islandMy dog he other side of the island

When I saw him I knew I better make friends quick--he was big. We walked around, and it was cool to have dog to chill with. We went up to this house, down a little trail. Suddenly there were two dogs barking on the trail--medium sized dogs. My dog just lunged after them and they turned tail. I heard a few yelps of mercy and pain, and started walking away from the trouble. Soon my dog was coming back triumphant. Good dog! I said, patting him.

No one else ever came to the bunkhouse, so I ended up staying free! I had it all to myself. But it got dark around 6 and after that, all I had was a lantern, which didn´t work after a while. So I used a flashlight. But I spent lots of time playing my guitar in the dark, and thinking.

Then I went to placencia, and from there, took the boat to honduras. I met a swedish couple and an italian couple, along with some others on the boat. When we got to honduras, we waited two hours for immigration to come. I walked around making friends with people, practicing my spanish, and then I bought some fishing line and fished. Everyone else seemed to wait impatiently. What do they think this is, vacation? I figured the immigration would be a good indication of the pace of the country, and it sure is. Service can be very slow!

I went with the swedish and italians on the bus to san pedro. We got in at night, and they were all scared, and I was their guide, basically, because my spanish was the best and I´ve been travelling a while and have, we get in, and they wanna take a cab. They were scared to stay there, wanted to go to Ceiba, where I am now. We went to the bus station in a cab, but the next bus was tomorrow. Me, I don´t like, I just don´t like taking cabs. but we heard it was dangerous there. So I figured to stay in San Pedro, and they wanted to go to some other town, in the Cab! I was like, good luck to you guys, see you later! I wouldn´t trust a cabbie that much, to have him drive me an hour. I bargained him down for them, and he wanted about 55 bucks. So, off the four of them went. I found a nice dodgy hotel, where I was quite comfortable, so I could soak up the new country.

Then I walked around, took care of a lot of shoppin I needed to do in san pedro (in honduras, a different one). I met some nice people walking around.

So today I am getting CDs burned of my pics, that´s why I´m writing this blog, it´s time for a little business. I am going to Utila today to do my scuba certification. It´s funny how tess has been everywhere before me. Maybe someday I´ll catch up to her...

somewhere a queen is weeping
somewhere a king has no wife
and the wind cries mary.



oh yeah, I forgot to mention--there aren´t really any tourists in San Pedro, honduras. People will just stare at you. Sure I have colorful clothes and stand out a lot. But people, I think more the girls, just stare you down. It´s quite interesting...

Additional photos below
Photos: 28, Displayed: 28


Watching The plane landWatching The plane land
Watching The plane land

Me n niky were on the landing strip when a few planes took off. We had to run to the side1
A long Kayak adventure on the sitee riverA long Kayak adventure on the sitee river
A long Kayak adventure on the sitee river

I saw huge orange iguanas in the trees. Looked for crocks and manatees with no luck.
The burners in the Jaguar reserveThe burners in the Jaguar reserve
The burners in the Jaguar reserve

I stayed here alone for free two days. No one ever came by. A great jungle trip.

15th March 2008

great blog
I was searching for blogs on Colombia, and yours is excellent, i'm now retracing your entire journey! thanks

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