Blogs from Capital Region, Guatemala, Central America Caribbean - page 4

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I had finally started to feel well enough again so booked a bus up to Guatemala. The journey back up was a real luxury, with big leather reclining seats, air conditioning, films shown on various screens on the bus and drinks and meal service throughout. It made the journey back up to Guatemala very easy. I arrived just after dark in zone 10, an area which is known to be one of the safest areas in Guatemala City. I walked for about 10 minutes to get back to the hotel, although it didn’t really feel so safe. After arriving at the hotel, I asked the hotel security and reception staff if it was ok to go for a walk in the area, both which responded that it wasn’t advised or recommended. The next day I decided ... read more
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The arrival to Guatemala was pleasant despite two days traveling, three flights and only 3 hours of sleep. I’ve always had a feeling of excitement being in Latin America as it feels like the beginning of an adventure. I met Ben at the airport, and we ventured towards our first port of call, Antigua, a small charming city just outside of Guatemala City and much less dangerous. We woke up at 7am, the following day and decided to visit a coffee plantation and ranch just two miles from Antigua. I had heard that Guatemala is well known for coffee and wanted to see how it was made, and to try it from the source. We walked there through Antigua and a small suburban town just outside called 3 Ángeles. The ranch was just outside, Finca Filadelfia. ... read more
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My last day with Guise in Guatemala City was spent running errands as she continued to show me around town. We delivered some of her freshly made bread to friends of hers across town and in the evening, made homemade pizzas while drinking boxed wine. The next morning we woke up early for our mini road trip to Antigua and Guise had made fresh banana cupcakes to drop off at her church. She sent some with me as part of a care package along with a loaf of fresh-baked bread. Guise had volunteered to drive me to Antigua so that we could enjoy a farewell breakfast together and she could buy some goods to send to her daughter Jennifer in the states. We hugged each other goodbye when she dropped me off at the Central Park. ... read more
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I arrived in Guatemala City late Friday night to find Guisela (Guise), my Airbnb host awaiting me with a giant sign that was shouting my name in capital letters. A tall, busty woman in her mid-60s with white spikey hair and bright purple glasses--she was sweet as can be and we took an instant liking to one another. She was especially delighted to learn that I speak Spanish and insisted I speak to her in Spanish (although we'd switch back & forth as we were searching for the right words). Upon arriving at her charming home, I set down my bags and joined her for a glass of wine at the kitchen counter. A few glasses later, we felt like old familiar friends and were ready to hit the hay. My first morning in Guatemala began ... read more
Guise's rooftop garden
Guise's rooftop garden


JADE: THE STONE OF METAMORPHOSIS by Dennis Cunningham Antigua, Guatemala Little birds flutter within the Cathedral de Santiago. Craning my neck, I can see them silhouetted against an electric blue sky. They descend through open domes that once soared, intact, above apse and transept. The birds land on the dusty tiles and hop about nervously, as if they are never comfortable, and would be quick to ascend again into the open sky at the first tiny tremble beneath their pennyweight feet. And they may have reason to be jumpy. Guatemala has the unenviable distinction of sitting above, not only a fault line, but also a fault zone, known as the Motagua and Chixoy-Polochic fault complex. The earth has history of shivering here. The birds seem to posses a Darwinian memory, and the Cath... read more
Impermanence
Maya face
Maya vessel


THE ALCHEMISTS OF THIENSVILLE-MEQUON by Dennis Cunningham Olieveros, Guatemala You may not be aware of this, but the Thiensville-Mequon Rotary Club, which meets Tuesdays at noon, performs powerful magic on a regular basis. They will almost certainly deny it. They will tell you that they are, by and large, a secular organization. I know better, and I plan to expose them. In mid January of this year I personally witnessed the creation, and subsequent disappearance, of an entire medical clinic in Guatemala. It happened somewhere between no-where and no-thing, in the southern part of the country, where mountains dissolve into blazingly hot flatland and cane fields burn. The Rotary Club performs this magic, under the auspices of the Guatemalan Medical Resource Project (GMRP) although they would be reticent to admit to their power... read more
Triage
Pharmacy
Instuments


ANTIGUA: A TALE OF TWO CULTURES by Dennis Cunningham Antigua, Guatemala Brilliant white cathedrals rise in Antigua, ancient and skeletal, standing fractured and broken against an electric blue sky. Inside, their dinosaur bones are frozen in mid tumble, column leaning against wall. I can almost feel the fierce rumbles of earthquake and hear the magnificent domes collapsing high above me. I can imagine frescoes shattering, Saints and Virgins falling to the tiled floors. Apse and transept, nave and chapel, that once so classically defined these colonial cathedrals, are today bathed in intense mountain light that pours not through stained glass, but through the remaining arched openings high above me, open to the sky. Birds come and go like tiny parishioners and dance at my feet. Outside, huge black volcanoes surround Antigua like sentinels. If the ruins ... read more
Facade and mountain
Dome
Columns and shadows


THE BOOTS OF PASTORES By Dennis Cunningham Antigua - Pastores, Guatemala Fabian, the vaquero I am shaking hands with in the flatlands of Guatemala, is a leathery, lean man. A perfect coil of rope hangs from his burnished wood-horned saddle, the leather of which, by the way, is the same color as his skin. They both have a kind of coppery, buttery polish. White brahmas amble along behind him in the dry field. They are white and long-eared, their horns curving up stylishly. He has just finished lassoing one of them and injecting her with a mammoth dose of pink liquid from a syringe with a barrel the size of a soda can. He can make his horse dance like Fred Astaire, skipping sideways, and then back, then forward, taking little high steps as if he’s ... read more
Concepcion
the line-up
Leather and cloth


January 22. Guatemala It sounded perfect. Ride a tour bus to Antigua, the colonial capital and a UN historical site. The ride was 1 1/2 hrs and we got a glimpse of the countryside and the way the locals live. This is a very poor country and the houses reflect the reality. Antigua is nestled between volcanos, one of which is active, and is at 5,000' altitude. We expected the bright sun and moderate temps. What surprised us was the chilly breeze from the north. All of Central America has been experiencing cooler than normal temps. It's Sunday and what we didn't know is the the Capital seems to empty, everyone heading to Antigua for Mass and visiting. The first thing we notice is the traffic, the second is the street vendors. Costumed in traditional dress ... read more


Chickenbusses.. In Guatemala they look really nice and colorful, it's a cheap way to travel from one place to another, but it is anything but comfortable. Usually I don't really mind to sit squeezed up next to other people in this vehicle that feels more like a rollercoaster than a bus, but the way from Chimaltenango to Antigua was extremely uncomfortable. I stood in the back of the bus, with my legs stuck between two guys who both already sat as a third person on a two passengers' bench. Behind me there was a man who's belly pushed into my back everytime there was a bump in the road (and believe me, it was a bumpy road). At the end of the trip I didn't even feel my legs anymore. But hey, I'm not complaining. I ... read more
Busstation
Antigua
Volcan el Fuego




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