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Published: July 14th 2008
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Wow...it has been a while since I have had the chance to write. Many reasons...mostly just too busy and internet is only available in the state sponsored (everything here is state sponsored) Communications office in the larger, more touristy towns. I spent some of last week in towns with no tourists...so there was no internet.
I have had so many amazing experiences in the last week...impossible to remember or acceptably/accurately recount them all. But I will try. 😊
The smaller and more isolated town of Baracoa on the far South/East side of the island has been my favorite place so far. From the moment our tourist bus descended into the small coastal town down on the winding, mountainous road...just beautiful moment. At one moment I saw turquoise water, mountains of palm forests blowing in the breeze, small wooden but well kept houses surrounded by gardens full of flowers, chickens, goats, pigs, etc...Old colonial buildings with worn used-to-be-bright paint, metal balconies, red tile roofs...Families of everyone from old grandparents, pet doggies, and small children playing in the old, worn down parks with metal swings, see-saws, merry go rounds...all facing the turquoise ocean, always with salsa music coming from someone's home or restaurant
to provide the tropical soundtrack and beat needed for those who always seem to be dancing casually in the streets. Hundreds of young people packed onto the Malecon, drinking bottle of Cuban rum and dancing to reggaeton in their itty bitty bathing suits, and flashy sunglasses at a street party with the rough waves just crashing over from the ocean into the street...all in the middle of the scorching hot day.
On the bus there, I befriended a pair of sisters from San Francisco...one of them another teacher...who were also backpacking for 3 weeks in Cuba. We instantly hit it off and I spent the most of the week with them and some local Cubans we befriended. They became our own personal tour guides and showed us all the most beautiful, only known with the locals, spots in the area. We spent the days at the beach...white sand, turquoise water, coral reef, yummy food served to you on the sand under the palm huts, drinking coco water directly out of the cocunut, a musician playing his guitar under the shade...or at the magical Rio del Miel...Cuban families bathing themselves and washing their clothes, or simply enjoying a day with their
families or lovers in the crystal cool pools and shade of the river. The river is surrounded by communities of farmers hard at work with their oxen... families of free pigs, chickens, goats, horses casually walking by us as we bathed, jumped, dove, and swang from vines into the river pools. So beautiful.
The tourist buses out of Baracoa were all filled with a waiting lists. I tried to pass as a Cuban and buy a ticket on the Cuban bus, but as soon as I open my mouth...my cover is blown. So one of my Cuban friends helped me by getting me out of Baracoa and to another town 2 hours away, then to another town 5 hours away. Each of these trips were made at dawn, with me not talking so I could pass as a Cuban and be allowed on the small, 50 year old jeeps that the regular Cubans take to get from one city to the next...very squished, hot, sweaty, dusty, contant smell of exhaust and petrol, VERY bumpy roads (only the roads used by the tourist are maintained well)...definatly an experience that most foreigners do not get. In fact, if a police officer caught
me on these jeeps, my friend would have been arrested for associating with me in an unofficial manner (the sate was not regulating or profiting from it) and the driver would have had his car confiscated and fined a huge, impossible amount. Thank goodness everything worked out well. I made it to the town I am currently in after yet another 8 hour bus ride...at least this time it was on an airconditioned (very cold, but at least not sweaty) tourist bus. A VERY large Frenchman had to sit next to me...another very large man was in the seat in front and had to keep his seat completely reclined and in my face the whole ride. I felt like I was in a box...couldn't take it after 2 hours and made them let me out so I could find another seat. The only one available was next to the freakin stinky toilet at the back of the bus...oh well. Better smelly than squished. "😊
Elisa and Sergio arrived safe and sound to Cienfuegos where I was freshly showered, had just eaten the most delicious home-made meal, and was ready to welcome them! It was so wonderful to see them! We
will be here 3 days, then go to Trinidad, Varadero, Habana, and to Mexico....less than 2 weeks left in Cuba!
I really do love it here...they have so many things we don't have, we have so many things that they can only dream about. I am interacting a lot with the locals...learning a lot about the realities here. Social inequality, racism, poverty is alive and well...just not in the same was as in the states. Everyone has food, housing, free education through university level, free health care, absolutely no violence of any kind in terms of robbery or weapons. But also no free speech, elections, private property, ability to leave the country and travel....very different. I am so fortunate to be here and experience it for real...not via television or books. I am thankful.
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Ben
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Donde estan las pictures. we want to see some of that tropical paradise you describe on your blog. Please be safe and write more. Adios