Cayamo Pt 2 - to Tortola

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Better had sort this final bit out as much as I can – likely only with general thoughts about it at this point cos it ended almost a week ago! Maybe some general thoughts of cruising. The idea of doing it has previously not appealed at all – and not too sure, even with this programme, that I would be dying to do it again – until I see the next list of artists on the boat of course. Previously John Hiatt and Lyle Lovett have been on the boat so a real hot bill like that might draw me again. Its an expensive gig to get to after all, despite all the attractions of being able to see someone like Richard Thompson on this occasion three times, one of them with Loudon Wainwright which was pretty funny. But what of the other than musical attractions?

I did an excursion on each of the island stops to sample them and would not generally rate them that highly as “tourist” destinations, even if you were staying there for a few days, but I am not really a “stay put” type traveller and like to keep moving. We steamed down for 2 days past Cuba and Dominica etc before getting to Tortola which is in the BVI (British Virgin Islands) – as a sign there said we are the THE Virgin Islands – hands off Yankee imitators of the US Virgin Islands – St Croix, the other stop, is part of the USVI and so part of the US. However in neither did you require other than your onboard cabin/keycard and photo ID to get on/off. But I think as everyone is in transit for the day, and hopefully spending money in the local economy (not this little black duck) it is not an issue. Tortola is one very steep island as we found out on our little tour.

A guy at the tour desk recommended the island Cane Bay/Pussers Landing tour as he had recently done it. Surprisingly it was also the cheapest ($45) rather than $70 which most longer ones are (the cruise line NCL sold ones are also dearer than local operators. Anyway at about 9am we set off out of the town in the “rush hour” which was coming into town. As the hills are about 35deg. slopes just as well we were leaving as we crawled out of town up the hill. The local sights pointed out were mostly “the largest supermarket on the island” etc – anything of any local significance at all. As virtually everything is imported and expensive, laying foundations for a house costs about $50,000 – as only really the gravel is local – maybe some sand as well? The houses cling to the sides of the hills with some great views over the port, called Roadtown. We saw a small privately owned island from the top of one of these hills before winding our way down to Cane Bay – which if you wanted to spend a week baking at the beach and drinking rum punches – or painkillers – would be OK. As I neither wish to broil nor bake, I would settle for the swimming. However with only really 10 mins or so there not enough time to do that. Plenty of the usual souvenir stalls. At one place I saw a single long vanilla bean in a plastic packet for $9! – man it be cheaper at home mon! Very much tourist prices for anything and everything so not remotely tempted.

We then drove around and about, via the Bomba party shack on the beach where they drink rum punches all night on the full moon or whatever, to Pussers Landing. This is pretty much a yachtie harbour with plenty of smallish (and some bigger ones) in there. After being there 30 mins and poking around a few shops we then drove what must be the only flat road on the island around the coast and back to Roadtown. As we went past Government House (Governor apptd by the Queen etc) outside town walked back there, but little to see. Did not feel like paying $3 to see inside Old Govt House next door either. Headed back into town – there is one roundabout and one set of traffic lights I think on the island I think in the centre of town.

I then found the best (and only?) value on the island – a shop selling British stuff for home sick limies. More especially British beers and cider for only around $2USD – they may be BVI but USD is local currency. So I bought a can of English cider shipped to the Caribbean for $2! Enjoyed it at an impromptu bar ledge in the shade with a couple drinking British beer – he was an English exile and now lived in North Carolina and his wife was Canadian. We had a very nice and interesting chat – they were on the boat too. I also checked out a couple of watch shops – as the islands are tax free it can be 20% off for US citizens. As I heard someone saying, I won’t buy a watch that is worth more than the first house I bought (which he said was $13,000 – sounds fair enough – rules out a lot of Breitlings then!). I was vaguely interested in a couple – but as I think I have bought 2 watches in the last 12 months, 1 in Switz. and a Citizen in NZ had better leave it there. So that was Tortola.

filed from Key West, FL 25 Feb.

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Photos

Tortola @ Roadtown
the Norwegian Pearl at the pier

hilltop view of an island
this is privately owned by a millionaire

a rarely spotted Mr Mink
at Cane Bay (rum punch not seen-or tasted)

air conditioning??
bit of a liberty I think!

Comments

[Huddo]

BVI Plus.
Hi Mike, Hilltop view, looks good, for the price tag! Good photo of Mr Mink, what! was that "ufo" in the water behind you? James Bond camera? Love Huddo and girls.