Ambergris Caye


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Published: December 2nd 2007
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A little bit about the land of Ambergris...
Ambergis Caye (pronounced key) is a rather large island - the largest in Belize, 24 miles in length. The mayans dug a channel at some point seperating this land from Mexico, so in effect it is a man made island? In fact this morning the Mexican coast guard was zipping by, and everyone noticed. I don't know how everyone can notice when the sea is so filled with boat traffic, but they were going quite a bit faster than the rest. Anyway, it is impossible to fit even a boat through the channel, so they must enter Belizean waters to go around the island to the gulf side of Mexico.
The only town on the island is San Pedro, where I live. It is more towards the south end. San Pedro has 3 streets. Front street, Middle street and Back street. Front street is right next to the ocean, and back street is right next to the lagoon. So if you stand on Middle street and a cross street, you can see water both ways. Front Street and Middle street are paved with pavers and a shallow dip served as a drain in the center with speed bumps every cross street. There is a lot of dirt and mud even on the paved streets that is tracked in from all the other dirt roads.
There is an airstrip on the island. Even though I stay and work 2 blocks away from the airstrip, I usually never hear planes. They are such small planes that they don't really make any noise, even though they are coming and going all the time. The airstrip has a wooden fence around it, but you can stand 25 feet away from a plane and watch it take off.
Just north of town is the 'split'. This is where the ocean cuts into the island all the way to the lagoon. So the lagoon is actually sea water. This 'split' happened during a hurricane years ago. It divided the island, and until earlier this year, there was a pulley boat system hooked up that you had to use to ferry across. This year they splurged and built a toll bridge for bikes, golf carts and pedistrians. It however is not wide enough or strong enough to fit a car or truck.
North of the split are the very nice resorts that extend up the coast quite a ways. I'm not sure how far, but to give you a point of reference, I walked back from an onsite last week, and it took me 1 1/2 hours. I had taken a water taxi there, but would've had to wait 2 hours for the next one, so I decided to walk. I wasn't anywhere close to the end of the resorts, and I walked past resorts and private properties the entire way. South of town are more resorts. I'm not sure how far down this extends either.
3/4 of a mile out on the ocean side is the reef. This means that the ocean's waves break on the reef, and not on the beach. So you can hear waves crashing, it's just out a ways. Because we are so near the reef, there is a lot of wildlife. I have seen eagle rays flying through the water as I have been walking down docks!
And there are a lot of docks. Or piers is a better description. In town, every 100 feet or so is a pier. At any one time you can probibly see about 20 piers or so. I am getting to have my favorites depending on what I want to go on one for. This morning I sunbathed on one that has some lawn chairs a palapa and a hammock at the end of it. This evening I sat on another with a picnic table to eat my dinner. Yesterday I sat on one that has no lights on it at night and looked at the stars.
Everyone either gets around on foot, bike, or golf cart. All 3 are challenging. The holes in the road are so big and filled with water and mud that it makes for a messy and/or bumpy ride. The other day I walked quite a ways on the beach and wanted to walk back on the road to also look for an apartment. I reached a crossways, and one way was filled with construction workers working on paving the road. It looked real busy, and didn't think I should walk down it. Ahead of me was a dirt road with a few puddles, but it looked like I could walk through with no problem. Well, I will never do that again! About half way, it got much worse and before I knew it, my flip flops were stuck in the muck. The road also got very busy and everyone passing was laughing at the gringa caught in the middle of the swampy road! I couldn't count how many times I was offered a ride. I carried my flip flops and the puddles were now up to my ankles in thick, slippery, sticky mud. And my flip flops had 'flopped' a splattering of mud all up and down my back side! The next street I made it over to the beach as soon as I could to rinse off. I learn something new here everyday!
Anyways, there is a little bit about the make up of the island. More later!

Jennifer


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5th December 2007

mud vs. snow
Greetings Jennifer! Sounds like you are doing great at making your way around. Better to have a flip flop in the mud than tires spinning out in the snow like mine. I guess I thought your job was more like an internship of sorts. Are you learning from the medicine lady there? Sorry I forgot her name. What kind of people are you working on and what type of therapy? It was the furthest thing from my mind and "plans" but now may find myself in your area soon. I will look forward to anymore stories and helpful info. Josie
6th December 2007

Wow!
After sending your birthday greeting, I decided to look once again at your blog. How exciting it was to read it...and I don't use "excited" lightly..as it is an overused word. Anyway, I try to envision what it might be like there and must admit I am somewhat envious as I look out the window at the falling snow. You go, girl.

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