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Published: August 4th 2006
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Mahi- Mahi
Fish On! Jay and his big catch, a 5 feet long dolphin fish. We have just spent the last two weeks in Spanish Wells (a small island just north of Eluthera) and have had such an amazing time there. Not only is there great fishing on the island (in one day we caught a dolphin fish that was over five feet long and produced over 60 pounds of mahi-mahi filets as well as a 50 pound yellow fin tuna- yum!) but we also made amazing friends on the island that we will never forget and that we plan on coming back and visiting for years to come. So far we have found that every island is unique in the Bahamas, but there is something very special about Spanish Wells that makes it even more unique than any other island we have been to.
Spanish Wells is one of the oldest settlements in the Bahamas and most of the inhabitants are descendents from the Eleutherian Adventurers, who came to the island seeking religious freedom in 1648. The population of this small island (2 miles by ½ miles) is around 1500 and the vast majority are white (very rare in the Bahamas). They are very hard working people and are some of the most prosperous
Tuna
The giant yellow fin tuna- now that's alot of sushi! Yum. in all the Bahamas, making their money from the fishing industry. If you have ever eaten at Red Lobster, then you have eaten a Spanish Wells crawfish (what they call lobster). The fishing fleets go out for a couple of months at a time, setting lobster traps and fishing, and then they work on repairing the boats when they come home. The fleet in Spanish Wells is immaculate and stands out amongst the other boats you see in the Bahamas- it is really amazing to see. They are very friendly people who take pride in their heritage and work.
We really had a great time there and made a lot of friends on the island. Because it is a small island and almost everyone is either related to each other or at least knows each other, it creates a tight-knit community which Jay and I got to enjoy being a part of for a while. Almost every night we would go to someone’s house for a big dinner, where one person would bring fresh caught fish, another conch fritters, and another pumpkin and rice, and someone else salad, etc. It is very communal and we have never eaten so
Spanish Wells
A picture of this fishing town at sunrise. well in all of our lives. And it was so great to experience some true Bohemian fare, including such dishes as turtle steak, fish stew, and biters (giant crab claws that they catch while out fishing during season). We also enjoyed one of their favorite drinks, vodka and coconut water- very tasty! The trick is to get the juice of young, green coconuts. It typically is the man’s job to collect the coconuts, which is accomplished with a ladder and a boat hook. After getting about 40 coconuts, we would spend hours openning them up with a machete. Then you strain out the water and collect the jelly inside (only 1 out of every 10 coconuts has the jelly). It was very tough work to get enough vodka and coconut water for the group, but it was well worth the effort. It makes the most delicious and refreshing drink which Chris calls the “nectar of the gods”.
Our first day there we went to the pineapple festival, which was going on in Gregory Town (a small surfing community on Eluthera). We hoped into a friend’s penga (a small, fast boat that they use when fishing) and went over to
Fishing Fleet
Just one of the many boats in this prosperous fishing fleet. enjoy the festivities. It was a big street fair with good food, great live music, and plenty of entertainment. There were tons of excited children running around chasing the Ice Man (an energetic young man who throws out money and candy into the crowd as he runs around to the wild music). And we enjoyed watching the children of one of the schools on the island do a maypole dance around the lamp post in the center of town- very cute. Afterwards we ate conch salad and conch fritters and peas and rice from the vendors and we also bought some pineapples, which were once plentiful on Eluthera. We played the many carnival games and won a couple of prizes (including a plastic bowl, a bottle of shampoo, and some baby lotion). We kind of thought that the prizes were funny, although very practical for the people in the islands. It was very different then the stuffed animals you see at street fairs and carnivals in America. But it was fun. Most of the night we just danced to the live music of Junkanoo, a very popular band here in the Bahamas which consists of horns, whistles, drums, and cowbells.
Spanish Wells
The town of Spanish Wells, taken as we were leaving with our pilot Captain Woody. And some of the ladies outside of the ice cream parlor gave all of us dancing lessons. We really had a great time and were glad that we made it to Eluthera in time for the pineapple festival.
During most of the days in Spanish Wells we would either help with the work on the boats or go out fishing or go to the beach at Meeks Patch (pronounced Max Patch). Meeks Patch is a small island just off Spanish Wells which has a great beach which the locals use for camping and day trips. The whole group of us (about 20 or so) would pile into 1 or 2 pengas and go out there for the day and set up camp. Now it is really cool because the locals have set up the beach at Meeks Patch with all the creature comforts for camping, including tables, chairs and cupboards filled with plates and bowls and pots and pans. They even have a kitchen sink set up and a grill to cook food. It reminds me a lot of Treasure Island and what it would be like to live on a deserted island. After getting there and having a
Town
A picture of the houses one the waterfront of Spanish Wells. bite to eat for lunch, the men would go off fishing and the women (and dogs) would just hang out at the beach, collecting sea shells or floating in the water. After a couple of hours the men would come back with a boat full of fish and conch (they are some of the best fishermen we have ever seen- which makes sense because that is how they make their living and all). Then there would be a myriad of activity on the beach while we prepared conch salad and fried fish- yum! We would eat a big dinner, drink vodka and coconut water, and just hang out at the beach until sunset, when we would pack up and head back in. Now that is what I call a good day at the beach.
At night the most popular thing to do was circle (which is where you get in your car or golf cart and drive around the island, doing circles). Now remember, the island is only 2 miles by ½ miles so we would do a lot of circles in one night. It is funny because that is what all the locals on the island do at
Pineapple Festival
Jay enjoying the local Bahamian food at the Pineapple festival. night, so everyone is out driving around and it is very social. You meet up with people and talk. One night Jay and Chris decided to try herding some goats- don’t ask. And we would often be out circling until 3 or 4 in the morning. One night Jay went land crabbing on Eluthera with a bunch of the guys, which is where you drive around looking for summer crab crossing the road. It was very fun, although they didn’t come back with any crabs that night. Something about how the light of the full moon stops them from coming out. Although they did see one crab in the road, but they accidentally ran him over before they could stop and pick him up. It was quite an experience. Actually all of our time in Spanish Wells was quite an experience, and like I said before, we plan on coming back and visiting again.
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Aunt Kathryn
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I am enjoying your blogs so much.. Sounds like you are having a fabulous time.