The unrepentant city of Valparaiso, in its full torn regalia, chewed up and spat us out in two days. This is Pablo Neruda's "crazy" city: ODA A VALPARAÍSO VALPARAÍSO, qué disparate eres, qué loco, puerto loco, qué cabeza con cerros, desgreñada, no acabas de peinarte, Arrived 2 pm at the main bus terminal on Pedro Montt after a pleasant two-hour ride from Santiago. The cacophony of the traffic, thousands of vendors selling mounds of strawberries, BBQ meat on sticks, Emanadas, newspapers and magazines, dazed travellers, and even a line of unemployed men around the building shocked us out of the pleasant daydreams of the bus ride. The taxi stand in front of the terminal was empty. We saw several taxies go by on the other side of the street and decided to walk away from this
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