after way too much time on trains with disgustingly loud snoring men rousing homicidal feelings in both kt and i, one hour in lanzhou (my only opinion was "big, grey, city; yuck"), and then another cramped busride, we're finally in the first place that i really liked upon arrival. when i told kt "this place seems nice", she nearly fell out of the open-air taxi we were catching to our hostel. she informs me that's the first time i've said that since we left australia. surely not! apparently so. but, thus far, xiahe has been nothing but lovely. we found a sweet little hostel, courtesy of dave, who we met back in dunhuang, and shared our find with the couple from brisbane we met on the bus. after checking in, we headed into town for some
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