Sept 1st Today started off with a great disappointment when we were advised that we could no longer visit Sailmaluu Tash because there were no horses available to do the trek up the range after the jeep had dropped us off. And if we were to walk it would take 6-8 hrs of oneway UP climbing to get there, and there would be no time to get back on the same day. So it was not to be, so we left Kaazaman on the road heading east to Bishkek via Naryn over the same range that proved to be as spectacular and scary a road as we had experienced the previous day. Jaw dropping hairpins which hopefully you can see in the pics. Finally into into Bishkek about 1800 for a well deserved nights rest. Sept ... read more

Breakfast today was a bit special in that we enjoyed fresh trout that John managed to finally catch in the early hrs of the morning whilst I was still asleep. We departed our GH in the Chychkan Gorge, and proceed down thru the valley in the direction of Toktogul Reservoir on the M41. Again we experienced the sweeping mountain ranges, with the sheer red sandstone rock faces contrasting with the green of the valleys. Small restaurants were scattered along the riverside all selling the local trout, which was clearly very common in this area. Due to dry summer, the reservoir was well below normal levels. Approaching the town of Kara Kol, we became aware of the massive hydroelectric power scheme and the five dams that had been built by the Russians in the 1970's. Hidden from ... read more

Kyzl-Oi village is nestled alongside the Karamoron river, and in a valley between two massive mountain ranges. At about 11am, we wandered down to the village 'square' where the Horse Festival was about to start. The first hour and a half were local singers, and dancers followed by traditional village games such as Tug-a-War , arm wrestling, and 'hit the dirty bucket with a spear whilst blindfolded' !! This was very much an authentic local village affair but there were about 100 tourists present in addition to the local kids. After a sweaty lunch with about 30 other tourists squeezed into each yurt, we headed up to a nearby sports ground (a.k.a paddock) where the actual horse games were to be held. The games consisted of well known favourites such as wrestling whilst on horseback, wrestling ... read more

Torugut Pass was the initial destination today - the pass marking the border between China and Kyrgyzstan. Today was also the start of our 'organised' tour with the Snow Leopard travel company with whom we have contracted driver and guide services from Kashgar, thru Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and the Wakaan corridor in Afghanistan. Started well with our new transport picking us up from our Kashgar hotel and we were soon off down the highway towards the border. Great road for once, and we soon were at the first of five checkpoints - the Chinese customs and immigration checkpoint. This only opens up at 1100 so we had a wee delay but finally we were though with no hassles. There was another 75 kms of dreadful roads, one police check, one passport check thru spectacular mountain valleys climbing ... read more

The Karakorum Highway (KKH as it is popularly known) is a spectacular mountain highway that goes from Kashgar to Islamabad in Pakistan. The LP describes it as "one of the worlds most spectacular roads , and China's gateway to Pakistan". I suspect they wrote that before the roadworks took place that we were about to experience. We are going along the KKH only(445kms round trip) as far as the Pakistan border at Kunjerab Pass (5200m) via Kara Kul Lake and Tashkurgan. After passing thru Opal village where we stocked up with water, bread and fruit, we headed up to the mountains. Two hrs from Kashgar, we passed thru the canyon of the river Ghez with brilliant red sandstone rock faces, and the first major military checkpoint, where our passports and permits are scrutinised. Before we get ... read more