The end of our Nepali visas unfortunately coincided with a proposed period of Maoist strikes, including border closures, etc. So, in order to avoid getting stuck and overstaying our welcome (i.e. getting fined), we made a mad dash to the border, and down into India. Three dusty buses and an overnight train later, we were in Varanasi. We arrived at 6am to bargain with rickshaw drivers and lug our gear through the already busy market places. Despite all this, when we finally broke through to the river the sense of peace was incredible; while the winding alleys and markets of Varanasi are a free for all of motorbikes, hustlers, stray dogs and holy cows, along the river there is a palpable sense of reverence. We found a lovely place to stay, with a rooftop and ‘Ganga
... read more