Geo: -31.4053, -64.1804The first trajedy of our trip struck the day before we left Buenos Aires for Cordoba. A filling popped out of my front tooth and left a big gaping hole.Karen said, I guess we'll have to go to a dentist. When we got to Cordoba we met our spanish teacher, Osvaldo Carnero and along with many other helpful things he did for us, he said he would ocntact his dentist and arrange for me to get my tooth fixed.He emailed us later that day and said he had made me an apt for 6:00 the next evening, right after our class ended. He drove us to the dentist and insisted he stay with us as a translator so he could tell me what the dentist said. This was a wonderful, generous thing that he ... read more

Geo: -34.5911, -58.4137It all started when I wanted to do a nice thing for Maria. I decided to wash all the bedding and towels and fold them neatly because she has been so good to us. She's letting us leave our bags in the apt. until our bus leaves tonight and that's a really big deal. It would be so difficult to drag them all over town all day.The problem began when I realized how many coins it would take to run the washer and dryer. Coins seem to be scarce and shop owners hesitate to give them up. They'll even charge you a peso less so they don't have to give up a coin. So Karen and I went to the nearest bank, but unlike our banks, you can't just walk in and approach a ... read more

Geo: -34.5911, -58.4137This is a gorgeous park on the level of anything you´d see in Europe. But then, that´s who they copied. Maria and Matias picked us up Sunday afternoon and took us for a mate picnic, sure that if we tried ¨the best mate ever,¨ we´d love it. And actually, it wasn´t as bad as I remembered. In fact, we kind of liked it.Mate, if you haven´t heard, is an tea with it´s own culture. More than a tea, it´s a passion down here. Special little cup, special silver straw, special thermos, special leather carriers.But anyway, we enjoyed the mate and loved the park. Hope you will too.... read more

Geo: -34.5875, -58.6725Mention the Perons in this country and you get a reaction. Good...bad...extreme...passionate---it's not a dull subject. Even now, 60 years after her death, you see graffiti: "Evita Siempre," Evita Forever, in the poorer sections of town. And why not? As Director of Labor when her hubby Juan was president, she set up orphanages, schools, hospitals and supported women's suffrage and dignity. The poor and middle class loved her, even to lining up to pass by her coffin--even collapsing on her coffin, for 13 days until the government pulled the plug and moved the body.The history of Argentina's love/hate relationship with Eva Peron is worth volumes and for us it's fascinating. We're enamored by her story. While Madonna made her live for North Americans, our Argentinean friends were not so amused. Today we went to ... read more

Geo: -34.5875, -58.6725We met our newest best friends the day we walked into our hostel in Barracas, a Buenos Aires barrio they claim as the birthplace of tango, but which translated means old, beaten down and forgotten.Franco and Siskazi are two career women who have traveled the world together with their two children, Ahka (14 year old boy) and Tumi (9 year old girl). They both work in sales for a computer company in Capetown and were really interesting to visit with. Before we parted (they to Uruguay and us to a condo in Palermo) we had developed a bond deeper than any we've experienced in our travels. We talked about the politics of apartheid, the governments of So. Africa and the US, Mandela, relations between black and white and the uniqueness of our forming friendship. ... read more